bassl0va

They don't have a set manufacturer rating, or any T&S specs. haha

Surface Mount Device. But whatever, it's just one word

What the hell are you on about? Quite a lot of your advice is quite dodgy. I agree that upgraded speakers will sound better than stock 99% of the time, and having those speakers on a external amp will sound even better, but what do you mean by 'tweeters by themselves'? Like, on their own amp, or just tweeters and no mids? If it is the first one, it will work well if you know what you are doing. If it is the second one, it will sound like shit. You can't just say "yes, chuck that 500 watt sub on a 700 watt amp" it depends on many things, the sub, the quality of the signal, the box, etc. etc. You need to know what sub he wants to run first, but yes, having a more powerful amp than the speaker/sub needs will make clipping less likely as there is more headroom. And hell no, that is not how you set gains . I don't mean to be a dick, but some of this advice isn't the best. EDIT: Also, what level? And why 1000 watts? Power doesn't determine loudness by itself.

That would be bottoming out, and it sure as heck is not good. ?

Are you not going to amp them because you are on a budget? I'd try as hard as possible to get an amp because a head unit will only put out 20 watts or so. Also, would you be able to get 6.5" components instead of 4"s? Because I wouldn't really use speakers that small without having something for lower mid/midbass as well otherwise you might be pushing them too hard. Also, I don't think HU powered and sound good can be in the same sentence?

what do you mean by a source are you saying like a cd player? Yep, or an iPod or anything with an audio output.

I say yes because you are actually using real gear! You will need various wires and a source.

contrary to your belief i did, and nothing came up...if youre not going to help keep your mouth shut. why does every new member have an attitude and think its ok to tell people to keep their mouths shut in a public forum? what you dont understand yet is that some questions are so insanely common that they are pretty annoying. in fact, its astonishing that they keep coming up over and over, to the point where it makes you think anyone still asking must be lazy or stupid because we have answered this so many times already. so you dont like being called out, big deal. its call humility, learn it and chill. i am " chilled " and if you dont like my attitude or my thread then dont open any of them and dont put your 2 cents in... Come on guys, lets not have another thread turn sour

Well you can, but you shouldn't. Ported boxes need to be bigger than sealed, so if you do that you probably won't have sufficient box volume for your sub.

An aeroport is just a round port with a flare, the box is still ported, it's just that the port is a different shape.

Good luck trying to fit 3 of them in there and still tune down to 24hz. It is harder than you think. Hahahahah small? Unless they are changing there name to Otimic hahahaha Yeah, I died a bit inside when you didn't do the awesome lettering. REBUILD Atomic FTW!

Email one of the people from DC and ask, you aren't allowed to share the prices around.

What system are you planning on running?

There is nothing wrong with crimping. Unless you try and do it with a set of pliers or something. Good point. Maybe it is clipping severely...

Check your grounds like hdorre said. And while you're at it you might as well check all the other wires and make sure everything is hooked up right.

Ported enclosures can sound nice too, it just takes more designing and testing to get it right. T-Lines are probably one of the best for having a bit of both. But they are harder to fit in a car because of their large size...

It should he fine if it is 2.5"s, I don't think BTL's are able to get 5" peak to peak, they would bottom out first, or break something else. You should be fine.

How much distance between the highest point on the surround and the tailgate will there be?

You will have to email or pm one of the people from DC audio as they don't like people sharing the price of their equipment. May I suggest asking Rusty: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/12-wca-rusty/

I think I may order some 'violent bass air' for my rebuild. Gotta have the best!

It could. These subs don't have pole vents, so if it can't move enough to circulate air, it could get hot. You have to look at the T&S specs and know what there needs to be. There is sometimes a EBP number, which helps to give you an idea of what box a sub is better in. but yeah, it probably easiest to just do what the people that made suggested. After all, they did make it.

What are they meant for then? They are made to reproduce sound with minimal coloration, and be able to handle the large peaks that may exist in unmastered music. whether it is playing voice or instrumentals, it is still playing a collection or (mostly) sine waves.

Yep, just parallel them to the amp to get 2 ohms.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistor resistors and all about them. They are the most common electronic part, there is at least one in everything. Because of this, they are incredibly cheap, but you will probaby have to buy 10 of them since selling them separately is impractical. 3 of the ones I linked you to should be fine. You might want to get 5 or so since you might want more light.

Yeah, if you don't mind if they don't pulse, just hook them up to the battery and have a nice switch mounted in the dash somewhere. Anyway, IMHO I think that ones that pulse to the music are kinda ricerish looking, like something you'd see in a cheap prefab system where they make up for the crappyness by adding as much bling as possible. But that's just my opinion, haha. http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?products_id=699&osCsid=b4f701b3bb51694dbb08462ce2c607a7 I bought like $140 worth of these (not all red, a bunch of each colour) back when they were like $3.40 or something. They are damn bright so you wouldn't need many, I use 6 of them for a brake light in a stock spoiler. I can get some pics of them if you want? EDIT: If you wire them to your back battery, you will still need a switch (and of course a resistor), so if you want to switch it from the dash you will need some back and forth wiring. But it's really what is easiest for you, it's not like you need to run 0g for them, haha. EDIT: EDIT: lol wait, I count 51 of them just here, not counting a few missing ones and the 6 in the car. Must have been more than $140 . I have too many LEDs.