bassl0va

Your subs are dual 2 ohm eh? wire in series and the ohm loads add 2+2=4 if it's not a dual 2 ohm sub then you can't wire it to 4 ohms. If it's something other than dual 2 ohm, then please tell me and I can tell you what to wire it to.

The amp will give out power to whatever you plug into it, it can probably drive a 0.25ohm load for a fraction of a second before it blows, and it can power a 100ohm load (some subwoofers will even reach this load at certain frequencies) but at very reduced power. The amp doesn't know what subs are plugged in, it just sees 4ohms and puts out power, the power varies as the ohm load is increased or decreased (which like I said before happens naturally when playing music) making any switch would be useless. If it's a 2ohm sub, it can't run at 4ohms because it's a 2ohm sub. now, if you by another 2ohm sub, you can wire them in series and have 4ohms, but you will need a more powerful amp to drive both subs (and wiring them down to 1ohm would be a better idea, unless your amp can't handle 1ohm). And not all DVC subs can do 4ohms, if it's a dual 1ohm it can only be 0.5ohms or 2ohms, a D4 can only do 2ohms or 8ohms etc etc. You are doing 4ohms bridged, which effectively is the same as the 2 x 200watts because when you bridge an amp, each channel sees half the total load, but because one channel is playing and inverted signal, they add together to create one 400watt signal.

I don't think that the switch needs to be grounded, I'd say just make sure all your connections are good using a DMM. BTW, external speakers are generally frowned upon. He doesn't live near a primary school by any chance?

I think just keep this amp until your next upgrade, don't worry about it at the moment. Yep in series is safe, because thats 4 ohms, and that amp can be bridged at 2 ohms, so you are fine. If wired in series and if it's a good amp, it will put out 400 watts, the 250 was a mistake. And if you set the gains right, you will be all good. Yep, 4g, and if you want you can do the big 3 in 0g, but that shouldn't be too necessary now.

If you wire a dual 2 ohm subs coils in series, you will get 4 ohms, and if you bridge that you should get 400 watts. I think their site is wrong. RMS Power @ 1 Ohm Stereo (12.5V)400 x 2 RMS Power @ 2 Ohm Stereo (12.5V)200 x 2 RMS Power @ 2 Ohm Mono (12.5V) 800 x 1 RMS Power @ 4 Ohm Mono (12.5V) 400 x 1 RMS Power @ 4 Ohm Stereo (12.5V)100 x 2 The 250 should be a 400, so wire it in series and bridge. I don't see why you only want to use 1 channel though, you could just put one coil on each channel. I'd go for the biggest wire that the amp can take, which may be 2g, but is probably 4g.

It would have to be 1 ohm on one channel, because when you bridge a amp, the two channels see half the ohm load, so if it's bridged at 2, each channel will see only 1. May I suggest that you get the amp fixed, that way you won't have to worry about anything. But otherwise I don't see how it would explode because if you set the gain right, and at the frequency that the boost is at it won't clip, what twit used the bass boost anyway naughty naughty!

It may, but I would still recommend a equalizer or processor as you would have more adjustment and it could be used for many more projects in the future. And epicenters seem to have a history of blowing amps and subs.

I see...um hear what you mean, it dips down at the end of the note, like it should naturally, but you don't want that for bass race, you want it to be constant. A equalizer would be a good choice, but you would have to turn the gains down so that it wouldn't clip on the louder parts, meaning that you would lose more than you gain. But if you are sure it would help, a RF 360 processor would probably work great.

By constant you mean flat frequency response? Because if the frequency response is not flat, you need to get a multi band equalizer.

What was your previous amp? If it was an 8kw then you must have been clipping it cause theoretically this should be as loud as any other 8kw amp.

I thought it took 10db to be twice as loud, and 3db is twice the acoustical power. But perceived loudness is hard to measure cause Bob finds it hard to tell when the sound in his left ear is twice what is in his right!

I reckon you keep the arm rest and do what you did ^there with the 3 10"s and 2 6.5"s but put some tweeters above the armrest, otherwise it will look a bit empty with 3 10"s and 2 6.5"s down the bottom and nothing up top.

Rule #1 The seller always organizes the deal Rule #2 The buyer may ask if he can do something, unless it completely takes away responsibility from the seller (like he's trying to do) Rule #3 Uncles/friends/movers never pick up the stuff, if they can't come and get it themselves, they are scammers.

You may not need an alt, but you will at least need a good battery or 2 in the back.

They would have to be identical amps set identically, and would also need to be class A to draw constant current (which would also have to be the right amount of current) and would have to have the right internal resistance. It may work

Find a hefty as DC-DC converter and you will have some cool storage, you might as well just use a couple of 12 or 14v ones though.

Find a hefty as DC-DC converter and you will have some cool storage, you might as well just use a couple of 12 or 14v ones though.

I guarantee that you will regret buying the cheap Sony setup sometime. I don't know when, but you will.

x2 exactly the same here except it's my current system, must be something about the combination of throwing the specs and recommendations in the rubbish! lol

The kit you mentioned first is far better than the sony stuff, plus the other one is new and abuse free. The extra $70 is worth it IMO. And if your mom is telling you not to buy car audio, then tell her to screw off and not buy unnecessary clothes because you can make your own decisions with your money. If that fails, go buy it yourself without telling her, she will get over it.

Considering their big amps are the same internally as Sundown, I'd say it's good.

We never said anything about strength, just density, MDF is more dense, which is important for speaker boxes. Also, your pictures show chipboard, and then we start talking about plywood?!? Chipboard is made out of chips of wood glued together, plywood is layered sheets with the grain changing through 90 degrees every layer to improve strength. plywood is stronger then MDF I think, but chipboard (what you have) is weaker. If you find two pieces of wood of equal size and thickness one of each MDF and chipboard. Then put them between two trestles, drop a brick on each from increasing distance until one breaks. I'm positive that the chipboard will break first. Why did you cut them wrong in the first place? Just screw them together with some glue and cut them, screw holes don't matter, you said you will carpet it. But is doesn't change the fact that it's a rubbish choice of wood. BTW quastion is spelt question

It's still generally weaker and not a good choice for subwoofers.

Thats probably going to get really messy when you cut it and it won't have clean edges (it may chip/splinter. It's not good in this situation because it is unfavorable for high powered car subwoofers. Some brands that make hi-fi home audio (was it Wharfedale?) used to sandwich MDF and plywood together because it made the best of the various densities and dampening properties of each type of wood so the two types benefited each other to make nice sounding speakers. Also 3/4" is just over 19mm, but is sometimes made as 18mm, and plywood will also be slightly ugly unless you carpet it or something.