bdubii

I think you would be fine then. Especially running a second battery. But if you do turn it up just watch your voltage

You might be able to get away with it if you don't listen to your system at full tilt often. With those two amps, assuming that they can put out 2000watts rms that will draw about 166 amps of current. If you exceed the amperage rating of your alt by more than 20% you can expect to have problems. 20% of 109 equals about 131 amps. And that is all assuming that you are going to be playing it at full tilt with your car not demanding any other electrical needs. I wouldn't want to do it but if you decide to the extra battery will help for sure but it would be good to replace your alt

Sweet, it's great to see an update on this. I cant wait till it's ready for final sells

WOW, top quality gear, just like I have. Well the only difference is that I know mine doesn't "pump" lol. I couldn't watch it past the 3 min mark, just too embarrassing for this guy

Looks like a nice design

Plus an amp at 4 ohms will be a lot more efficient than any amp will be at 1 ohm

^ x2, just want to know where the product stands

I saved up before I bought my first equipment, and my first amp was the rockford t4k And I know the box and wiring is all ugly but it was my first system and I did it when I was 15

That looks mean. I would def rock this truck

When you mix two different batteries together the weaker one is naturally going to try and take power away from the stronger one to increase it's voltage. Ultimately you will have a dead battery, so just use a battery isolator if you insist on using different batteries

You should def have two fuses between the batteries like you do in the diagram. And also like mentioned above I wouldn't mix two different types of batteries together. But if you do you should use a battery isolator so that one battery doesn't drain the other one.

I wouldn't mind pre-ordering as well

That would probably make a difference. It will be almost impossible to seal off the trunk though. There are so many small holes and passage ways in any car between the cabin and the trunk for sound to travel through. Especially lower frequency sound that can get through just about anything

Since you have to get it from sonic then I would def go with the rf amp from that list

I have a feeling that most people here will say rockford out of that list and I would also

That would be my guess. You said the box fills up the whole trunk so I guess there is no way to play with the position of the subs and see if it makes a difference then?

x2, I would like to know why you weren't impressed

That looks really good and I bet it made a huge difference as well

It sounds like your experiencing some noise cancellation in the sound waves. When your in the back seat I'm guessing that the location of your ears are in a better spot where the sound waves actually constructively interfere with each other causing a louder and more violent bass. In the front seat the difference in location can be causing the waves to be destructive interfering where they might be close to 180 degrees out of phase. And when the windows are down that can change the wavelength tremendously. Just my idea

Thanks for the information in this thread. I have always wondered if damplifier and spectrum could both be applied. I would love to do this to my truck while also undercoating the underside

I want one

awesome, i shouldnt have a problem with 4 12s then. thanks for posting that guys!

they arent bad at all. even with the crappy amp i have they still hit pretty hard and do pretty good with the lows. most people dont believe me when i tell them i only spent $400 on the system and its too late for videos, the old box is pulled out already

so after some more reading around i think i have decided to build a box that will be 10ft^3 after displacement and have three 6"x27" ports too equal 108in^2 of port area which is 10.8in^2/ft^3 and tuned to 27hz. also since the ports are so long i will have them firing up and the subs will still be firing up as well in the back of my ext cab truck any suggestions on this design?

But seriously, 4 12s is easily enough to get crazy air moving, just dont expect those hfis to do very well. I did a pair of them in 4 cubes tuned to 33hz and they bottomed out on about 250 rms a piece. they didnt sound very great either, but I guess thats to be expected from 30 dollar speakers. I would do 2 better 15s than 4 low level 12s. Something like AQ SDC2.5 15s should move good, or perhaps dc level 3 15s? Thats just my recommendation. thanks for the suggestion. i want to stick with the 12's just bc of my plans to run the sa 12's once i have the cash for them. your right about them not sounding the best but they still do a great job considering the price Like I said, I would do 2 better 15s than 4 lower level 12s, but that is just my opinion. You could do some cheap cheap 15s just to have some beat. Something like these http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-MAXP154D-2000-Watt-Small-Enclosure-Subwoofer/dp/B000O3XT4W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1292366521&sr=8-2 I doubt they would sound any worse than the hfis, and that way when you wanna upgrade, instead of dropping 6-700 on 4 sa12s, you could do something like 2 dc XL15s, or Nightshade 15s or something like that. I personally would take 2 nightshade 15s over 4 SA12s. Once again, just my 2 cents well with 4 12's i would have more cone area than 2 15's and i would think a better chance to push more air, correct? that is something for me to consider though