fr34kout

^ This. Wire them directly to your amp. Even the remote wire can be ran with the amp.

Yea mine's just for daily too, but eventually that SMD is going to see 2 4500's lmao.

Well I think those 4 level 5's will take that 11k like nothing, you may need to get another amp in the future even lmao

Damn ryan, no more Atomic for you? Can't wait to see this build XD

Sweet, your son and I have the same birthday! I'd go with what jey said, hand print with name above and birthday below.

You need a clamp meter to calculate it. Clamp the power comin out of your amp, from that you can calculate your total impedance. Subtract your nominal impedance, and you have box rise. How do you fight it? Build another box, then another one, then another one, then a couple more, and see which one has the least rise.

Waiting on the cable to come in still, but hopefully it'll be here in the next week or two. I couldn't figure it out the first day I tried so hopefully that's the key. Where do you have the 3.5mm jack plugged into?

I talked to tanner about this for my 4200, he said you need the special pioneer cable so that it sends audio and video to the deck but it sounds like that's what you have. Something like this? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Accessories/iPod/CD-IU200V

It might be a long shot, but I don't know maybe a.... car audio shop?

Regardless of what you set your amp at, chances are you're still clipping. Unless you clamp your amp to find your impedance with box rise included and set the gains with a DMM to match what the amp should be putting out at that impedance, you're going to be clipping. Me personally I have a Sundown 4500 running an 18" SMD wired at 1 ohm (should be right below .7), but after box rise I'm at ~3.3 ohms. After o-scoping the amp with a -9 db test tone I clamped it at 2400 watts on a 0db test tone. Even then I'm clipping the sub on tones and on most music it will have soft clipping. If I were to set my gains with a DMM and set it to 4500 watts, I would be clipping the everloving shit out of my sub.

Yea the way I posted will have you at 4 ohm nominal aka 2 ohms per channel. The way you have it wired right now is 1 ohm nominal aka .5 ohms per channel. You push less power at 4 ohms but the amp can actually handle it.

How did you link them? If you did it wrong it's probably going into protect so you don't short out the amp. Are they daisychained, master/slave?

Why not help him fix his wiring instead of recommending a different amp? Wire up your subs like that for a 4 ohm load total (2 ohms per channel). You'll be seeing a lot less power, but you will stop blowing fuses.

I'm just going to assume you doubled in the picture, idk. Anyways this is what you need to do. Positive of amp to positive of Sub 1 Coil 1. Negative of Sub 1 Coil 1 to Positive of Sub 1 Coil 2. Negative of Sub 1 Coil 2 to Negative of amp. For 1 & 3 you want to put it on the outsides (like positive of channel 1 and negative of channel 2, the amp should show a line to show where to bridge) Now you can either run 2 more wires from the amp to the 2nd sub the same way, or you can run 2 more wires from where the amp plugs into the sub and connect those to the 2nd sub the same way.

So wait do you have a 2 channel amp or a 4 channel amp? The picture is showing 8 inputs, that's a 4 channel amp. Are you bridging channels 1&2 to 1 sub and 3&4 to the other? I'm lost here.

It means your amp is drawing too much current. Either the ohm load is too low, your gain is too high, etc.

Nope, it's like Macs you pay for the name not the performance. Go to a website that allows you to build your own comp (like ecollegepc or cyberpower). They build it, warranty it, and ship it to you for far less than the normal companies (Dell, HP, Apple, etc). Or if you want to try building a comp yourself you could order everything from Newegg and put it together. Building a computer is like playing with Legos, except there's electricity involved lol.

Yea like I said, the i series walks all over AMD CPU's, but for a really strict budget build I could see someone using AMD. For GPUs though that's mostly what I base comparisons off of is on games. The ATI cards are still better than the Nvidia cards for less money. I've always loved Nvidia, but they need to step it up.

I dunno about that, ATI has top notch GPU's right now for an unbeatable price. The AMD CPU's are great for the money, but for a little extra an i series from Intel will walk all over it. If I was building a comp right now I'd base it off an i7 and a 5xxx series card.

Looks pretty good, but where's your graphics card? I guess my tips would be make sure you ground yourself to get rid of any static electricity before you touch any of the components, and be careful with the CPU heatsink / fan, those twist push tabs can be a bitch especially for a first time builder. Edit: Oh forgot to add, do you have an OS or are you planning on "getting" one? Whatever you do, don't even consider Vista. Win 7 or if you wanna go the cheap route XP.

Should be good, just keep an eye on your voltage and make sure you're not clipping.

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There's a guy in hawaii selling 2 of them, I can link him to the thread and see if he'd be interested in shipping.

Are you looking for a Therm(ometer)Lab in Fahrenheit or Celsius?

You could run 2 d2 p2's in a series-parallel config for a 2 ohm load, or if you want you could run 2 d4 p2's in a parallel config for a 1 ohm load. It will probably be cheaper to find am amp that puts out the power you want at 1 ohm vs 2 ohms.