fr34kout

Sweet, your son and I have the same birthday! I'd go with what jey said, hand print with name above and birthday below.

You need a clamp meter to calculate it. Clamp the power comin out of your amp, from that you can calculate your total impedance. Subtract your nominal impedance, and you have box rise. How do you fight it? Build another box, then another one, then another one, then a couple more, and see which one has the least rise.

Waiting on the cable to come in still, but hopefully it'll be here in the next week or two. I couldn't figure it out the first day I tried so hopefully that's the key. Where do you have the 3.5mm jack plugged into?

I talked to tanner about this for my 4200, he said you need the special pioneer cable so that it sends audio and video to the deck but it sounds like that's what you have. Something like this? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Accessories/iPod/CD-IU200V

It might be a long shot, but I don't know maybe a.... car audio shop?

Regardless of what you set your amp at, chances are you're still clipping. Unless you clamp your amp to find your impedance with box rise included and set the gains with a DMM to match what the amp should be putting out at that impedance, you're going to be clipping. Me personally I have a Sundown 4500 running an 18" SMD wired at 1 ohm (should be right below .7), but after box rise I'm at ~3.3 ohms. After o-scoping the amp with a -9 db test tone I clamped it at 2400 watts on a 0db test tone. Even then I'm clipping the sub on tones and on most music it will have soft clipping. If I were to set my gains with a DMM and set it to 4500 watts, I would be clipping the everloving shit out of my sub.

Yea the way I posted will have you at 4 ohm nominal aka 2 ohms per channel. The way you have it wired right now is 1 ohm nominal aka .5 ohms per channel. You push less power at 4 ohms but the amp can actually handle it.

How did you link them? If you did it wrong it's probably going into protect so you don't short out the amp. Are they daisychained, master/slave?

Why not help him fix his wiring instead of recommending a different amp? Wire up your subs like that for a 4 ohm load total (2 ohms per channel). You'll be seeing a lot less power, but you will stop blowing fuses.

I'm just going to assume you doubled in the picture, idk. Anyways this is what you need to do. Positive of amp to positive of Sub 1 Coil 1. Negative of Sub 1 Coil 1 to Positive of Sub 1 Coil 2. Negative of Sub 1 Coil 2 to Negative of amp. For 1 & 3 you want to put it on the outsides (like positive of channel 1 and negative of channel 2, the amp should show a line to show where to bridge) Now you can either run 2 more wires from the amp to the 2nd sub the same way, or you can run 2 more wires from where the amp plugs into the sub and connect those to the 2nd sub the same way.

So wait do you have a 2 channel amp or a 4 channel amp? The picture is showing 8 inputs, that's a 4 channel amp. Are you bridging channels 1&2 to 1 sub and 3&4 to the other? I'm lost here.

It means your amp is drawing too much current. Either the ohm load is too low, your gain is too high, etc.

Nope, it's like Macs you pay for the name not the performance. Go to a website that allows you to build your own comp (like ecollegepc or cyberpower). They build it, warranty it, and ship it to you for far less than the normal companies (Dell, HP, Apple, etc). Or if you want to try building a comp yourself you could order everything from Newegg and put it together. Building a computer is like playing with Legos, except there's electricity involved lol.

Yea like I said, the i series walks all over AMD CPU's, but for a really strict budget build I could see someone using AMD. For GPUs though that's mostly what I base comparisons off of is on games. The ATI cards are still better than the Nvidia cards for less money. I've always loved Nvidia, but they need to step it up.

I dunno about that, ATI has top notch GPU's right now for an unbeatable price. The AMD CPU's are great for the money, but for a little extra an i series from Intel will walk all over it. If I was building a comp right now I'd base it off an i7 and a 5xxx series card.

Looks pretty good, but where's your graphics card? I guess my tips would be make sure you ground yourself to get rid of any static electricity before you touch any of the components, and be careful with the CPU heatsink / fan, those twist push tabs can be a bitch especially for a first time builder. Edit: Oh forgot to add, do you have an OS or are you planning on "getting" one? Whatever you do, don't even consider Vista. Win 7 or if you wanna go the cheap route XP.

Should be good, just keep an eye on your voltage and make sure you're not clipping.

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There's a guy in hawaii selling 2 of them, I can link him to the thread and see if he'd be interested in shipping.

Are you looking for a Therm(ometer)Lab in Fahrenheit or Celsius?

You could run 2 d2 p2's in a series-parallel config for a 2 ohm load, or if you want you could run 2 d4 p2's in a parallel config for a 1 ohm load. It will probably be cheaper to find am amp that puts out the power you want at 1 ohm vs 2 ohms.

To answer that question we kind of need to know what amp you're going to be running. The best bet is to choose the subs you want (in this case 2 p1's) and find an amp you want to use to power it that matches the RMS ratings. Then when you find the amp, find out what ohm load it puts out the power you want and order your subs coil config based on that. If you got the 4 ohm subs you could wire them in parallel for a 2 ohm load, almost any amp should be able to handle this. If for SOME reason you buy an amp that can only handle a 4 ohm load, then you will need to get the 8 ohm subs and wire them in parallel.

All you were changing was the speaker amp? You weren't cycling between different speakers? Tbh the only time you will hear the difference is if you're going from REALLY shitty speakers to something good to decent or changing out the equipment in your car after getting used to what it sounds like for months or even years. That is if you're talking about only hearing the difference when you're getting samples from people. If you go to an actual car audio shop and listen to their sound board, you'll be able to cycle through the different speakers. If you want to hear the biggest difference, listen to a really expensive smooth speaker for a few songs (something like a high line DLS, Rainbow, Focal, etc) and then half way through one song change to one of the cheap $50 pairs of coaxials. If you can't hear the difference between those two, then your ears are fucked. But look on the bright side, you can invest more money into your subs and not worry too much about how your speakers sound like.

I wasn't asking about a trade, I was asking if I could direct swap it into the same box. I was thinking about doing a side by side comparison type of thing. Same box, same power, same car, see which hit higher and which sounded better.

Not trying to dog them, just explaining the experience I had, or should I say didn't have with them. I've heard only good things about DC but I haven't had the chance to actually hear one of their subs in action, only a handful of people are using them over here.