matt14

Downloaded this album off itunes sunday and this album hits! Was playing and came across this song "dilusional", and is hittin HARD! Also downloaded a Gorilla Zoe album "King Kong", but really just been playing techs album.Maybe tommorrow ill start listening to King Kong, but just wanted to share this with yall . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrVeUcncm4s

Nice, I love my XL.

What about disconnecting the dist block and running the power straight to the amp to try and rule out the dist block? Just re-reading seems like that seems to be your problem. Or try and use the a different output on the dist block.

Try anf pm twistedchild420 he's a rep for crescendos

Back off your gain

If you dont want to buy any power tools, what about asking someone here in your area if they can give you a hand in building a box and use there tools. They may want you to cash them out, even for the tools but you dont have to buy them. Or i just looked at the rental catalog for my local rental spot ( lewis rents ) and they rent jigsaws. So you can rent the tool from a place like that so you dont have to buy the tools. This place rents out a ton of different things from enclosed trucks, regualr trucks, tools, large bbq's, etc.....

Im trying right now to come up with some funds to re-do my mids and highs. I will not go with CDT again ( there coo, but i think i can find something better). Was going to run the new line of Crescendos that are coming out ( if they ever drop ). After seeing this thread, it made me think of the vibe 6's again and may just end up going with VIBE. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_31676_VIBE-Audio-SPACE6.html If I were you, i would just go with some cheaper 6x9's since your not throwing them on a amp.

I was looking at there space 6's a while back, but diddnt seem that anybody here had any feedback on them. Its sucks cause the look decent and have heard from a member on another forum that they are good.

I see that you said that the big 3 is done in 0g, but is the wiring from the batt's to amp also 0g?

Does it do it all the time, even when your not playing your system? Does it steadily drop to 12.5 or just kinda spike down there. You know, I had the same issue with my DC alt. I called and talked to them and they said that my truck (2006 yukon) has a feature which if 14 volts is not required, the ECM will drop the voltage slowly to 12.5v for fuel economy. I thought they were full of shit, until a friend of mine looked into it some more and sure enough DC was right. I also run two xs3400's on a crescendo 3k at .5ohm, and i still sometimes drop to 12.5. after say 1-2min, the voltage will start to increase slightly until it stabilizes around 14.3ish. This may also be the same for your impala.

Your looking for a 4k+ amp at 2 or 4ohm? Not 100% sure, but I don't think the dc5k does 4k at two ohm . Maybe the 9k, but not sure. Best bet is to strap two amps together in my opinion .

If I could have gotten out of working I would have came through.

You gonna,be there late?

:orly: 500+ lbs of stereo equipment might effect your cars weight and tire balance. it affects your tire balance? lolz, that was the funniest thing i have ever read. And if it was aligned PROPERLY before the install it is not necessary to realign.(except when you exceed the max weight the car can support, but then it's stupid to drive on the same suspension which is not rated for that much weight.) EDIT: blackedout, then your alignment wasn't perfect. OR if it's a old car sometimes they mess up the alignment with added weight. Modern cars or atleast good(wellbuilt) cars don't have the need to realign after adding a stereo) If your talking about a large amount of ADDED weight from a car stereo like some of these cars do have ( like cfizzy said...500lbs) then in my personal and professional opinion, a re-alighnment is needed afterwards. Like they said, the camber is going to be altered and will throw other measurements like the toe out as well. To be honest with you, weve had some customers come in after we performed a alighnment within the factory specs, complaining about a pull to the side in which they are sitting. Its hard to say this to them, but because they are pretty damn big, this will alter the load on the suspension and cause the alighnmnet to go out of spec. You have to remember that when a car is alighned, they are not maxing out the weight of the car. There is actually no weight in the car when the car is alighned, unless its the weight that is fixed to the car ( for example sub box and amps ). Majority of people dont even drive with no were near the max load weight of a car, and is almost always just you and maybe one other adult ( or a couple of kids which equal 1 adult ).

I'd stick with something in the range of 1200-1500rms. I've heard some level 3 10's on a alpine 1000, and they do pretty good.

The rockford power 1000 is a older model that is no longer availble, unless you buy it used. It is a very good amp, the first amp I ever owned. It's pretty underrated, especially on the 4channel side. They rate it at 60rms at 4ohm, but I've read that almost all did over 100 at 4ohm. Good luck finding one.

I run that same set of cdt's. They're alright, gonna upgrade to dual sets of maybe crescendos in my front doors and a set in the rear doors.

What I did with the molex connecter in the b-pillar of my yukon was ground away a small section of the connecter housing and slid the 12g in there and re-connected the connecter. I also put some felt tape around the metal in the b-pillar.

I'm down , and the wife is coo with it too.

I assume that this is a no go for Sunday?

I have a 06 yukon and hell yea its small back there. I only have two kids and not having anymore, so sold the third row. Good luck with a box. Oh yea, if you want, check out tahoeyukonforum. Havnt been active on there in a while, but i do remember there was a thread about boxes behind third row seats that some people were doing.

Any updates for this Sunday.

I saw this in the recent topics, and thought you were selling the amp already. Good luck with your sale.

Volvo xc90. The engine is actually made by ford and is used in from what i remember the land rovers ( or range rovers, which ever ford ownes/owned ). FOMOCO stamping all over it.

Ive been a tech at this dealer for almost 8 years and in the field for 10years. Ive been working on this car for the last month and I came to the conclusion that this is the worst car ever that ive worked on. Its a 2010 with about 15,000miles on it. Car came in with complaint of low coolant light. Second time in the last year with this complaint, and no leaks were found the first time and same this time, but the pressure did drop this time. Took a look and did a lot of testing. After finally adding some dye to the coolant and draining the engine oil, found traces of dye in the oil after letting the oil drain for over 5 hours. Question is, how and where is it mixing together? I pull hte cylinder head off ( this is a new desighn and i have no expierance with this engine, and this is a horrible desighn and a pain in the ass to work on! ). Took a look at the head gasket and diddnt see anything. Sent the head out to a local machine shop and at first they said that they were having problems with blocking off a coolant passage and could not pressureize it. Then they called me back a hour later and was able to figure it out and found a cracked water jacket on the intake side. This great news since we can now confirm the failed part. Ordered new head and all related parts. Recieve the head and set valve clearance and install. Once i started to lubricate the cam journals to lay cams back in, I see something that looks odd. Found a crack in the NEW HEAD!!! Cant believe it and neither can anyone else in the shop including the field tech specialist ( tech representitive from the manfacturere). Re-order new head and related parts. So i recieve the new head and inspect for cracks and see nothing. All seems good. Install the new head and finally get ready to start the car. Cranked over for a while to pump of the hydraulic lifters and start car. Car runs good, but has a loud tapping noise from the cam area. The exhaust side uses solid lifters and intake-hydraulic ( no measurement for intake side at all ). Figured that after a while the noise would go away since these lifters were left out for over a month and would just need some oil pressure to cure it. After drving for 20+miles, the noise is still there. Guess what, have to pull back out again. Took out the cams ( lots of work just to be able to remove those) and found what appears to be a collapsed lifter. After some careful examination, noticed that on the intake side there are pins on the side of the lifter. There is a groove in the lifter bore that the pin goes into. On this cylinder, for some reason there are two groove cut and the lifter is stuck at the bottom at the meething point on the two grooves. This car uses a form a variable valve timing and the outer bucket is what is collapsed/siezed. Now, another head needs to be replaced. Ordered up the new head and all related parts. Also ordered new intake cam ( slight scorring on the cam journals ) and new lifters. This was earlier this week and now found out that the camshaft is on back order for 2 weeks, which is now putting this car in our shop for 6 weeks minimum. So after what is likely to be close to 70hours in labor, and three new heads, the customers car was bought back. Ive worked on some fucked up cars before.... like a noise that after 50 hours of trying to diagnose noise was ruled a normal noise, and tracing schaffed wiring along body harnesses, and shitloads of wierd intermittent faults that occur once in a very great while... but this one just took it to another level for me.