UnderLoK

The probability of this being...? They aren't meant for fast discharge so if that is what you are doing they will heat up and vent. If you pull to hard on them they will vent, it's not a question of if, they will do it. The gas is highly flammable and poisonous. Just because it isn't "leaking" doesn't mean it isn't venting gas which is why you need a box for them to vent outside.

I'm sure Steve just thought you were trying to be a doucher Honestly I thought you were a guy throwing a fit because you didn't get yours yet and I don't think I'm the only one. Sorry to hear shit is tight at home man hopefully you're able to dig out, but it's nice to see a dad that actually gives a shit, good luck man.

Is the amp protecting (red light) or does it actually turn off (do you use a fuse or a breaker)? Where are you grounding the amp and rear batt? On a related note keep in mind that your stock battery is draining the rear battery constantly. Your back battery will never be full because full to it is around 13v as to where your stock batt is 12.5 or 12.4 or the like. So the rear battery is constantly trying to equalize the front battery draining itself. Eventually (if it hasn't happened already) the rear battery will go to hell in a hand basket as it never gets a break ever.

Holy shit your fast Ray thanks man!

That's the answer No, if you average one will clip and one won't. You either match them or you have some playing louder than others which you don't want.

If the laptop isn't more than $700 it's almost certainly junk. I'm not trying to be an asshole, but this goes back to you get what you pay for. I dunno about Samsung... I would stick to the big boys especially since the smaller guys pay more for their hardware. Definitely stay away from the low end home user lines (low end Pavilions being a prime example) no matter who you go with. If you leave the crapware on of coarse they are slower, but if you are trying to say that they are just slower when compared to a comparable laptop from Dell, HP, Lev, Toshiba, or the like I honestly think you are a liar (unless you only see $400 laptops then I would have no idea). It's hard to believe anyone that insists on one brand and one brand only. It's like the kids crying about how great OSX is or Windows or Linux or any other bs. There are always options... Ditto... But for most people they need Windows which takes most of that savings away (I run 7 in Fusion).

Holy shit... 2 hours to cut up the brisket and pull those shoulders... ffs

Swing on by! Party doesn't start for 3 hours, you'll be here by 5 Have Blue on tap though, I know no Natty Light is a deal breaker...

Started it at 8pm last night always makes for a shitty nights sleep. Not sure why I don't do it the day before so I'm not a tired mess all day, but whatever...

Definitely hookup Boiler, forking dick man He needs some consolation for being the quietest TB on the planet...

You need to pull them and look at the coils. If they are black you were either clipping them or shooting dirty power at them or maybe unloading which doesn't help in cooling. If they aren't black then you need to start looking at the enclosure (assuming it's just not a manufacturer defect or a problem with a recone) as well. Maybe it isn't all that musical and you're having loading issues.

http://www.cut2sizemetals.com/

Not me man I throw a big party this weekend every year.

It's not hard for me, the last 2 I had failed from bad cells after a few months This last one has been so far so good though (at 3 months). Back in the 90's (I was late teens) I had a couple and they both lasted close to 4 years with massive abuse (talking about boiling over abuse taking them down to 9v, charging them on a quick charger, etc). I know better now, but maybe that's the problem? They like having their ass kicked on a regular basis...

Charging at 15 flat is completely fine... Remember that conversation when you see all the guys with newer GMs running XS. Every single new GM (that I know of) charges over 15 (15.3-15.9) for 1-5 minutes (longer if it's super cold out) so I guess they shouldn't be selling batteries to anyone with an 06+ GM Truck/SUV or 07+ car/truck/suv (not sure about the little cars)? 15+ cold is fine... IMO they are just trying to avoid you charging your 12 at 15.8 for a year in a daily.

Those are the pre-orders.

Battery prices have gone up slightly this past year, but there is not that much of a difference. There are some positives to Optima's in that their warranty is rock solid and if you buy it local (if you don't it's a complete waste of time and money) you can take it back if it dies (and they do). I'm just one of the many that has had HORRIBLE experience with their yellow tops. The last good yellow top I had was around 96 and that one lasted 4 years beating the hell out of it. The last 3 I've owned didn't make it more than 6 months. The hassle free ownership alone is worth the extra $25-$40 a battery not to mention they crush Optima's on amp output anyways. As far as the shop goes, knowledge is power. Find the prices online and take that price to them, just don't expect them to match it because remember they have a shop to pay for and far more overhead.

I've always just run Bel's and while they are far from "top of the line" I haven't had a ticket since I started using them when I was 20 (35 now). Most cops just leave their radar on, but if you don't pay attention a laser will get you sooner or later. I haven't been pulled over for speeding in 15 years.

Wow I never heard about that before, but that's prolly cause all the houses around here are <1960. Either which way that sucks man, counter back and tell the bank to fix it or your offer is now $10k

That is due to people buying their junk line in droves. Their higher end stuff doesn't suffer from the same failure rates. If it did we would have one a week dying. I haven't seen an Elitebook yet take a crap unless it was dropped. That by no means says that you won't have issues, but then again both of my co-workers MB's died after 18-22 months and mine is still fine. As a general rule you get what you pay for which is why the laptop manufacturers that don't have many sales in the junk laptop/netboot market have better scores.

WTF is Chinese drywall? They haven't used real drywall in forever (if that is what he is referring to). My house is plaster sucka

Most of our customers (I've been in IT since 95') run HP Elitebooks and have no problems. I would just suggest that you only look at laptops that are above $800 (preferably HP or Toshiba) because while there are cheap ones out there you should expect them to suck just like Peal n Seal Be sure to uninstall the crapware as well... If you have some knowledge and go with an Elitebook it should come with a system disk (will say Windows 7 etc on it). Download all of the drivers from the HP site, put them on a stick, reinstall using that OS disk, and load the drivers. On some models USB won't work w/o a driver update so just make sure you have some blank CDs should the need arise. By the same token I've been running a MB since the unibody hit and haven't had a single issue either, but they are a consumer product and while quality is generally good as a business you don't want to get pigeon holed. You need a product that you have plenty of options for repair, tons of software, and no quirks when it comes to doing things for work. 100% agree... IMO the list goes Toshiba and then HP simply because every Toshiba I've had or worked with was replaced because it was old never because it broke down.

Kick ass man congrats! You say your NEXT house? You selling the one your in now or renting it out?

I also use a CTEK Just keep in mind that the batts should not be getting drained. If you charge them up and it happens again either something is on or one of the batteries might have a bad cell.

The 5ks are beasts. I've seen some killer numbers after rise so either way you go I'm sure you will happy. If it were me I would go with the 5k that way it's a simple upgrade path should you decide to. Ask Derrick about them, there are some guys down in Columbus getting some ridiculous numbers out of them. Obviously you would do well with SD as well, but I just think 1 amp is easier. If you think you will go in another direction though, you know the resale on SD is plain stupid (good that is). I assume the 2500's you're talking about are from the used sale? Used w/ warranty that is? http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/10634-used-b-stock-refurbished-amps-and-misc/ What warranty? If it broke it was obviously your fault...