UnderLoK

Thanks for the quick ship Ray! Everyone with my HU that I talked to insisted it clipped at 34 except 1 guy who said 40/40... At 0 40hz it lightly distorts at 39/40 and 1k it doesn't 40/40. I know someone who hasn't had his gains up enough... My poor 2007

Great install man love the box! Looks like Jersey Shore at that show There are like 5 4th orders on here running lvl 5's man.

ehhh, but you said the amp turned off at 12.6? That isn't right... I know what a relay is, I just have never heard of anyone using one like an isolator. I haven't even seen one big enough to handle that kind of amperage (I'm sure they exist I just haven't seen it is all).

What do you mean a relay? If your amp turns off at 12.6 the problem isn't your alt. How exactly do you have it wired up (you did say you had big 3 done, but I don't see it in your build)? Run it down for us front to back. I know some people go way off into left field, but seriously, it isn't your alt and your explanation makes it hard to visualize. Something isn't setup right with your electrical and it's better to figure it out now then fry your amp

The probability of this being...? They aren't meant for fast discharge so if that is what you are doing they will heat up and vent. If you pull to hard on them they will vent, it's not a question of if, they will do it. The gas is highly flammable and poisonous. Just because it isn't "leaking" doesn't mean it isn't venting gas which is why you need a box for them to vent outside.

I'm sure Steve just thought you were trying to be a doucher Honestly I thought you were a guy throwing a fit because you didn't get yours yet and I don't think I'm the only one. Sorry to hear shit is tight at home man hopefully you're able to dig out, but it's nice to see a dad that actually gives a shit, good luck man.

Is the amp protecting (red light) or does it actually turn off (do you use a fuse or a breaker)? Where are you grounding the amp and rear batt? On a related note keep in mind that your stock battery is draining the rear battery constantly. Your back battery will never be full because full to it is around 13v as to where your stock batt is 12.5 or 12.4 or the like. So the rear battery is constantly trying to equalize the front battery draining itself. Eventually (if it hasn't happened already) the rear battery will go to hell in a hand basket as it never gets a break ever.

Holy shit your fast Ray thanks man!

That's the answer No, if you average one will clip and one won't. You either match them or you have some playing louder than others which you don't want.

If the laptop isn't more than $700 it's almost certainly junk. I'm not trying to be an asshole, but this goes back to you get what you pay for. I dunno about Samsung... I would stick to the big boys especially since the smaller guys pay more for their hardware. Definitely stay away from the low end home user lines (low end Pavilions being a prime example) no matter who you go with. If you leave the crapware on of coarse they are slower, but if you are trying to say that they are just slower when compared to a comparable laptop from Dell, HP, Lev, Toshiba, or the like I honestly think you are a liar (unless you only see $400 laptops then I would have no idea). It's hard to believe anyone that insists on one brand and one brand only. It's like the kids crying about how great OSX is or Windows or Linux or any other bs. There are always options... Ditto... But for most people they need Windows which takes most of that savings away (I run 7 in Fusion).

Holy shit... 2 hours to cut up the brisket and pull those shoulders... ffs

Swing on by! Party doesn't start for 3 hours, you'll be here by 5 Have Blue on tap though, I know no Natty Light is a deal breaker...

Started it at 8pm last night always makes for a shitty nights sleep. Not sure why I don't do it the day before so I'm not a tired mess all day, but whatever...

Definitely hookup Boiler, forking dick man He needs some consolation for being the quietest TB on the planet...

You need to pull them and look at the coils. If they are black you were either clipping them or shooting dirty power at them or maybe unloading which doesn't help in cooling. If they aren't black then you need to start looking at the enclosure (assuming it's just not a manufacturer defect or a problem with a recone) as well. Maybe it isn't all that musical and you're having loading issues.

http://www.cut2sizemetals.com/

Not me man I throw a big party this weekend every year.

It's not hard for me, the last 2 I had failed from bad cells after a few months This last one has been so far so good though (at 3 months). Back in the 90's (I was late teens) I had a couple and they both lasted close to 4 years with massive abuse (talking about boiling over abuse taking them down to 9v, charging them on a quick charger, etc). I know better now, but maybe that's the problem? They like having their ass kicked on a regular basis...

Charging at 15 flat is completely fine... Remember that conversation when you see all the guys with newer GMs running XS. Every single new GM (that I know of) charges over 15 (15.3-15.9) for 1-5 minutes (longer if it's super cold out) so I guess they shouldn't be selling batteries to anyone with an 06+ GM Truck/SUV or 07+ car/truck/suv (not sure about the little cars)? 15+ cold is fine... IMO they are just trying to avoid you charging your 12 at 15.8 for a year in a daily.

Those are the pre-orders.

Battery prices have gone up slightly this past year, but there is not that much of a difference. There are some positives to Optima's in that their warranty is rock solid and if you buy it local (if you don't it's a complete waste of time and money) you can take it back if it dies (and they do). I'm just one of the many that has had HORRIBLE experience with their yellow tops. The last good yellow top I had was around 96 and that one lasted 4 years beating the hell out of it. The last 3 I've owned didn't make it more than 6 months. The hassle free ownership alone is worth the extra $25-$40 a battery not to mention they crush Optima's on amp output anyways. As far as the shop goes, knowledge is power. Find the prices online and take that price to them, just don't expect them to match it because remember they have a shop to pay for and far more overhead.

I've always just run Bel's and while they are far from "top of the line" I haven't had a ticket since I started using them when I was 20 (35 now). Most cops just leave their radar on, but if you don't pay attention a laser will get you sooner or later. I haven't been pulled over for speeding in 15 years.

Wow I never heard about that before, but that's prolly cause all the houses around here are <1960. Either which way that sucks man, counter back and tell the bank to fix it or your offer is now $10k

That is due to people buying their junk line in droves. Their higher end stuff doesn't suffer from the same failure rates. If it did we would have one a week dying. I haven't seen an Elitebook yet take a crap unless it was dropped. That by no means says that you won't have issues, but then again both of my co-workers MB's died after 18-22 months and mine is still fine. As a general rule you get what you pay for which is why the laptop manufacturers that don't have many sales in the junk laptop/netboot market have better scores.

WTF is Chinese drywall? They haven't used real drywall in forever (if that is what he is referring to). My house is plaster sucka