Autruche

you can start by using this forums search function... but seriously dude, put the battery in the trunk, ground it and run a + wire up from the battery up to the alternator... make sure you fuse the wire at both ends and maybe just leave one fuse out until battery 1 dies then put the fuse in to connect it... but, idk...

Alright, here is the end all solution... it involves a relay, but not too difficult. First you will need to buy an SPDT relay, those are the ones with 5 pins on them... Anyway, I'll give you an awesome MS paint diagram of what to do... That should solve all the problems, but it requires a bit more work.

Yeah, that's a result of your alt key getting stuck, as far as I know anyway. If that ever happens try hitting your alt keys a little bit then try using the keyboard again. OR it's sticky keys... to disable go to Start>Control Panel>Accessibility Options - under the keyboard tab the first thing you should see is about stickykeys, uncheck the "use stickykeys" box and save.

How about something like a filter so that posts in the off topic section don't add to your post count? I'd find that a little more reasonable. More difficult to get your post count up, but it's better than getting a 48 hour vacation for a picture that's not offensive or rude, I mean a good lol is nice now and then, but it shouldn't come at a price... sorry, /rant

Hmm, I'm no expert but a ported box and a sealed box have different frequency ranges right? what would happen if you did one ported and one sealed? perhaps you would get a more full-bodied bass output over your entire spectrum? it's always been a curiosity of mine to mix and match box designs... I've always wanted to run a setup with 2 of the same subs, one in a box tuned to, say, 28Hz and the other in a box tuned to, say, 36Hz. I just wonder how that would work...

Hmm, but then you have less money to spend on a hooker, and cheap hookers have more diseases... maybe just replace the hooker with some blow and a strip joint? there we go: suit>camera>blow>skydiving>land at the strip club!

buy a camera, a suit and go skydiving in your suit while recording it. and buy a hooker with the remaining money...

Well it's true if he drives around all day listening to a single tone at full tilt, but realistically playing music it would probably need like 120-150 steady to be played really loud all day, so I'd stick with my original guess of like a 220 amp. Nice to see that a manufacturer can jump in and help the little guy now and then though.

Get a better switch? are you keeping in mind that speakers run on AC current and not DC, so maybe an AC switch would work for you? I don't know crap about AC, I'm a DC guy, though it probably makes no difference for the switch. Anyway they are like 3 buck at Radioshack, Radioshack ftw.

I'd say a 220 amp would be great, it's not just that a high output alternator gives you more amperage, quite often they also put out a little higher voltage too, meaning you amp is a little more efficient. But of course this is coming from a guy that is running two stock alternators... lol

take the switch out and disconnect the wires from it and leave them apart and then try turning it up, it could have something to do with the switch, but it's very doubtful, all sorts of weird things can go wrong when you put a switch in something... if that doesn't work, maybe 2 switches, one for the speaker positive and one for the negative? I could get a little complicated and throw a couple of relays in there too...

hmm, I'd get four y connectors with one female end and two male ends, then wire them up like... Edit: the second one is how I'm doing mine, because my rear outputs have more bass so they will go to the midbass amp. Also, then when I get the crossover I want I can adjust the front on the crossover for midrange and highs, and the rear can be adjusted for midbass.

Yeah, try some other sites too, like Crutchfield.com, or Newegg.com they sell car audio now, audiosavings.com or even soundsolutionsaudio.com I'd just make sure to look around cuz different sites have different head units at different prices...

I don't know, i have a Dual flip-up screen HU and it's the cheapest thing I'd get. I had the Dual xdvd700 model of it before I got this one, I love them and they're about the same price. Just put in the screen unlock code and ground the parking brake cable and people will think you paid much more for it. the xdvd700 doesn't have ipod controls but the screen unlocks easily, however the xdvd9101 has ipod control (crappy ones) but there is no unlock code and you need to rig a switch up to act as a parking brake... Just my thought cuz I love mine, and it's a good price. I just think you could do better for the price. Edit: also they both have video out but only the 9101 has a video input.

Get a cheaper power supply (like you can still have a good one for about $30, mine cost me $24 and it's going 3 years strong) then you can afford to get a good graphics card, like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161315 I've had that one for over a year and I love it.

every great company has to start somewhere.

DO NOT EVER RESPOND TO THOSE KINDS OF EMAILS! You will get them like a third of the time you post on Craigslist. Always deal with cash and person to person. Honestly, don't even respond to their emails, if you use the Craigslist email randomizer then they won't know your email address, but if you respond then they have your email and will spam the shit out of it.

I was talking about having the alternator be for charging the motor's battery back up, of course we should all know that you can't have a sound system in an electric car without losing rage very fast, I know it wouldn't be perpetual motion but if you could, say generate 10% of the power the motor uses from a generator or alternator, then you just increased the car's efficiency... Although after it's drag and horsepower loss, maybe like 4%, eh... Same principal as a supercharger, costs power to make power.

Honestly the Tesla Roadster is the same thing, but it gets between 200-250 miles per charge, and if I recall it charges much more quickly than this car, but the price tag is rather high up there. The real downside, no sound system! but to be honest, if we could add an alternator to the rear wheels on separate miniature automatic transmissions then we could get some voltage back while only losing a few horsepower. I am not too sure on how well this would work though, it could either be very efficient of a huge inefficient failure.

Job For a Cowboy's songs knee deep and dead stale endings, Lamb of God's song Pathetic, Emmure's song when keeping it real goes wrong, Godsmacks cover of good times bad times. Those are all pretty good. Also some jazz and blues have great bass, like Yoko Kanno's song goodnight julia.

Sorry, but that's a no. I can get an RE MT 15 off a guy locally, but the guy that I'm looking for wants one of the ones listed in my original post. I know it'd be good, but he doesn't want RE for some reason, just a DC, DD, or T3.

Hi, I would like to buy one 18 inch DC level 4 (with level 5 coils preferably, but it doesn't matter), or a DD 9518g, or a T3 T.2000 18. The sub must have dual 2 ohm coils. I might not be able to buy it right away. but please PM me with your offer. Thank you.

It'll be fine, it isn't an spl setup, and you won't be doing hair-tricks in the parking lot, it'll probably draw like 20 amps at peak.

Dude, I'd get the first setup you mentioned with the RE, after all it's cheap enough to be budget friendly and you'll enjoy it. The sony would be nothing but disappointment, IMO. If your mom has a problem then tell her it's something that can go from car to car so you can keep it for quite a while. plus she probably spends that much a month on shoes and clothes, lol.

Oh yeah, I just put a 12 inch ssd in my friends car and it makes a type r look like it's for pussies. it was 235 shipped for the twelve... And unpacking a Fi is like getting laid for the first time, it's amazing...