Autruche

Trystar. Coppercableman on ebay. Best stuff for the money.

Good luck bro. Take your time with it and make sure you plan it all out.And make sure your box is centered on the carpet so the end seams come out perfect.

I'll pull up a video that should help you. It's from Soundman Car Audio. The guy does some pretty good tutorials.

Being that speakers run on AC power, the resistor would have to be non-polarized. It would be quite difficult, and probably rather expensive, to find a resistor with that low of an impedance and able to handle that much power. You'd be better off to create a coil out of some solid 32 gauge wire to get to the resistance you want, but then you would have to keep it cool. You'd also be losing power there anyway getting the sub itself only half of the power from the 2 ohm load, thus making it useless anyway. Best solution, sell the sub, buy one with the coils you need. They use non-polarized capacitors for those. Different farad rating yield different crossover points, however the final ohm load of the driver can change all parameters too.

Well, I know where my tax money is going if I get enough back.

Before you head over there try pulling a different one out of your fuse box to try in place of the radio/lighter fuse quick just to see.

If you don't want to disconnect the battery when working on electrical in your car, at least remove all associated fuses first. Try replacing the fuse anyway and seeing if that helps. Sometimes a fuse doesn't pop, but it will be so close to popping that it won't allow all the power to flow through it.

Let's see... This should help you; Long story short: Higher Pre-out voltage, the cleaner it will sound.

2 4" aeros is only enough port for 1 12.

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i dont know of many/any walls with 3 18's in there. it should be pretty immense, hoping for a 158 Can never argue with the wiring ability of 3 dual 1.4 ohm subs. 1 ohm or 2 ohms nominal by just changing wiring configurations = win. Then you can always go nuts and wire to .23 for burps, lulz.

It could possibly be a loose dustcap too. I believe those JL subs use a full cone dustcap on them, so it should be easy to tell if that's loose. Sounded just like that when my friend's dustcap came unglued. If so, take care of it right away. We didn't get it taken care of immediately with his sub and the dust cap flew right off taking a good chunk of the cone with it. Pull the sub out and free air it, but be careful with the volume. See if it still makes that noise. Should rule out whether it's the box or not then.

Sounds like you are simply bottoming the sub out. Basically over excursion, causing the coil to hit the bottom of the motor. Usually a result of playing below tuning with no subsonic filter set. What is the box tuned to?

Well, I have you covered on that one... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/96978-test-tones-and-sine-waves/page__view__findpost__p__1337768

Run a new remote wire. I know you said it checked out fine, but just run a new one. A loose remote wire is usually the problem whenever I have ran into that same situation. Run something like 18-22 gauge for it. I know it's overkill but if you used an amp wiring kit, then you should know that crappy little remote wire they give breaks way to easily.

Trippel from the New Belgium Brewing Company for me. Only beer I drink, and it's worth every penny.

Did you make sure to sand your grounding points down to bare metal? That's very important.

Asprin or ibuprofen, Crackers (preferably saltines), and pure water. All before you go to bed. In the morning Have a Prarie Oyster. 1 raw egg 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce dash of salt dash of pepper 2 dashes of Tabasco sauce Crack the egg into a glass, leaving the yolk unbroken. Douse it with Worcestershire sauce, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, and Tabasco sauce. Tastes like hell, but it works.

XS Power, Powermaster, Odyssey, Stinger, Deka, NorthStar, Shuriken, Kinetik You'll be more than satisfied with any of those brands. Buy the biggest one that will fit in the stock location.