Autruche

I'm no pro, but I'll try to answer your questions to the best of my abilities. Yep, you put the wall behind the sub's motor. Basically it'd be something like a 10 inch wide piece of wood that you'd want to put a couple of inches behind the motor of the sub, parallel to the baffle. As long as it's a couple inches or so farther away from your internal port opening that your port is wide you shouldn't really effect the tuning of the port. So say you have a 5 inch wide port, if you can keep the loading wall more than 7 inches away from the port opening then the tuning should not be effected much. Yes. The sub that is unloading will be stuck in a lower pressure section of the box, causing it to lose cone control and reach it's mechanical limits easier. Generally you have no concern about it in a 1 or 2 sub setup, unless you play way below your tuning. The time when it is most likely to occur is when you put your subs in rows of 3 or more. Here's a quick sketchup I did as an example for you: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w36/tha_ostrich/312sunloadingissuesbox.jpg

That's the reason why people put 'loading walls' in their boxes. A simple board just behind the sub closest to the internal port opening can help direct the pressure so it's more evenly spread out between the subs. However, there needs to be enough room between the port opening and the loading wall so that the wall will not effect the box's tuning.

Damn. Makes me want to finish my lvl 5 18 that I was working on. I even busted out the calipers and the micrometer on that shit.

Seriously, just put a little super glue on it and be done with it. Gorilla glues is the shit for minor repairs like that. After all, tis but a scratch, you don't need to get all fancy about it.

That was good. I woke my roommate up from laughing so hard.

Subbed.

You had me in tears with that comment

When you measure the length of a port that turns a corner you should measure down the middle of the port. Meaning that if your port is 5 inches wide, you should measure from 2.5 inches from the port wall. At the corner you simply measure from where the measuring lines intersect. Like so: Another way to look at it is like so: Add the outer side port wall length (the longer one) to the inner rear port wall length. In this example that would be 18 3/4 inches on the outer wall from the side section, and 14 on the inner rear section. That would come to 32 3/4 just like measuring right down the middle.

Might want a kill switch for your amp's remote lines so you can save your next windshield, lol.

I can hear Jeremy Clarkson saying "It's the Mini... Cooper S!"

Cutting down on overtime? Fuck, they're cutting down on my regular time where I work. I used to get full time but now I only get about 25 hours a week. The company is being ran into the ground. And the worst thing is that I don't think they are doing it on purpose, I think they just all suck at running the company.

Why would that effect power transfer? If using solid wire wasn't as good as using wire with multiple strands then no one would use buss bars on there battery bank, but instead be just running wires in between them. It all comes down to ease of use. You could either spend hours trying to get solid copper 1/0 to bend through all of the complex curves that you will find in you car, or you can slip your easily maneuverable 3500+ strand count OFC 1/0 around where it needs to go in 20 minutes. What seems more realistic for your daily, music oriented system?

Let's see if I can explain this right... It's a simple thing, but many people get the wrong idea about the gain on an amp. It's something like this: An amplifier is meant to amplify a signal of a certain strength, but you might not be giving it that much power through your RCAs. The gain is meant to compensate for the difference. As an example: Your amp needs 10 volts of input to achieve it's full continuous output. Your head unit has an output of 4 volts all the way up. That means that you need 2.5 times the power that your head unit produces in order to get full input the amp. When the amp receives the full input signal it needs then, and only then, can it produce it's full output, no matter what the final impedance load is. The gain is meant to multiply your input signal to match the input signal the amp requires, it doesn't have anything to do with the amp's output. Changing your final load on the amp may change the amount of output your amp has, but it does not change the fact that the amp requires 10 volts of input to work properly. I hope you get what I'm trying to say.

If you are willing to spend the money on 1 inch MDF, then get 3/4 or 1 inch birch plywood (11-13 ply) instead. Stronger and much lighter, way easier to work with too. With what you plan on running, 3/4" MDF with a double baffle and a little bracing in the right spots will be fine.

If you set your front stage up properly, you won't notice that there is no rear fill to it at all.

Ascendant Audio Fi Digital Designs DC Audio Sundown Audio Incriminator Audio DAD TC Sounds Cactus Sounds RE Audio Orion Atomic SSA Obsidian Audio AudioQue MMATTS Soundstream Crossfire DAD RD Audio American Bass ...to name a few.

If you are using a metal bowl, you are doing it wrong. If you want to flare PVC try this method: http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flares-25mm.htm http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flares-25mm-mold.htm

Nowhere near enough net volume for 2 15s. Would be good for 2 12s though.

Desired tuning? I'd say, do 2.2 net with a single 6 inch aero, or 2 4 inch aeros, or about 35-40 square inches of slot port.

Ahhhhh makes perfect sense! I listen to only decaf and pimp! They need a dam DC/PMP (decaf/big pimpin track) loL! I am gonna regain here in a few mins! Thanks! Yepyepyep, decaf says to use the -5dB track for his stuff.

I love the background on his channel. I bet those subs hit 300dBs. And I'm sure he really is 40 years old like he claims. Avoid that kids channel at all costs. Here's a WMP screenshot of that song: