Autruche

Quite simple in theory, a dvc sub with one 4 ohm coil and one 2 ohm coil, but you have a switch that only lets you use one coil at a time.

Check your nominal load the amp is seeing, most likely it's too low. If that's not it, open that bish up and look at the mosfets and take pics, they are probably toasted. If it was at too low of an impedance and switching it to a higher impedance doesn't work, than you might have burned up the mosfets from running it at too low of a load. I know that from experience.

Not the greatest unit, but I think it's fantastic for being such a low budget touchscreen. http://www.audiosavings.com/products/In-Dash-CD-Receiver-and-Monitor/VALOR-SD-906W-7-BLUETOOTH-MONITOR-DVD-IPOD-USB-SD-CD/SD906W.aspx Otherwise I would suggest: http://www.woofersetc.com/p-8584-deh-p7200hd-pioneer-cd-receiver-with-hd-radio-and-ipod-direct-control.aspx

Not the BEST cover, but I thought this was awesome.

Holy crap, look what I found: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/100755-dc-authorized-dealers-list-and-contact-info/ Just email one of those guys and ask them what the cost would be shipped.

Rear mounted turbo systems are the way to go if you love having 3 times the turbo lag...

Trystar is the best wire you can get. That's 4 gauge though, in case you didn't know.

If I'm with a friend and I'm driving, I make them reply for me. Otherwise if I'm driving alone, I'm constantly forgetting to even check my phone. I refuse to put anything before my driving.

I can't stress how important scoping an amp is if you want to over power a sub. Clipping lights on some amps (IE: AQ, Stetsom, Soundigital) are better than nothing, but you just can't replace a scope. Yeah, I'd say they still looked like new too. I hope they survive what's coming though.

It's not a versus thread, he's legitimately asking which driver would retain more quality at higher spl. In all honesty, the Q was built to be more SQ oriented, where as I am not sure about the level 4. However, SQ is an opinion. What sounds great to one person may sound terrible to another.

they rarely blow because most people arent sending 300 amps of current through their wires, so in theory you have too big of a fuse, so really you could fuck something up without the fuse even popping at all Fuses aren't there to limit current draw, you can easily draw more than 300 amps through a 300 amp fuse in a short burst, but they aren't meant to pop from current draw, they are meant to pop from heat. If your power wire grounds itself then it can get hot enough to start something on fire, that's what the fuses is there to stop.

Great guy to do business with. I bought his AQ SDC2.5s from him. He held onto them for a couple days while my friend decided if he wanted them or not. He had them shipped out the day after I sent the money, and packaged them in their original boxes. Besides the typical scratches on the bottom of the motor they looked brand new. Hooked them up and they perform great. Would gladly buy from him again.

Uh... Here's a crazy idea, don't turn the amp all of the way up? No one said you could only use it's full RMS. You can set it to run around 150-175 at 2 ohms by backing off of the gain slightly. Although you'd be better off to find 4 ohm components, as most 4 channels are more efficient and tend to sound better at 4 ohm loads. Edit: typo

You can buy full carpet kits for cars. They come pre-molded for the car too.

I can understand your dilemma, but the interchangable baffle seems too complicated. However, this is what I cane up with for that idea... The holes around the perimeter of the baffle are to bolt it onto the box. Tee nuts must be used on the inside of the box so you can properly secure it together. Use weather stripping to act as an air tight seal between the baffle and box. The three rods inside of the box are for bracing for each baffle, and would be threaded rod. The two on the ends would be used to brace the baffle for the 15, one on each side of the woofer. The middle one would be used to brace for the 12s, and would go in between the woofers. When a brace is no being used, simply remove the threaded rod and place a nut, bolt, and washer combination in place to seal the hole. You would still have a big problem though, the box would have to be built to specs for the 2 12s, as they would require a larger box. You would have to make something to take up space in the box to bring it down to a usable volume for the 1 15, but reducing the net volume would raise your tuning. Perhaps you could make a removable port wall that will lengthen the port and take up airspace and get you down to a usable net volume, because it would lengthen the port and lower your net volume at the same time. Although between the two setups you would probably only want a difference of about .2-.5 cubic feet. ^This is why I say it is rather impractical.

hmm... let me get this straight... you want to make a box that will probably take a full sheet or two to make... Then you want to make another baffle, which will probably require another sheet, which you could just make the second box out of. Seems rather redundant to me. I KNOW how you can do it and make it work, but it's very impractical. If you really want to know, i can do a sketchup quick.

Use fuses. They are cheaper and more importantly, safer. When one pops you put a brand new one in and it's back to being perfect again, whereas breakers are more expensive and degrade over time. And think about it, you can get an ANL fuseblock, and like 10 fuses for the price of one circut breaker if you know where to look. But let's face it, if you pop a fuse and it's not because your amp just went to shit, then you're doing something wrong.

Well, if loud bass can make me sterile, then that's a win-win situation. I hate kids.

The wood going through the windshield part looks legit, but it seems like the wood just appeared out of nowhere in the road when I downloaded it and slowed it down. I'm lost on this. These things happen, but with it looking like the board appears in one frame instantly and the fact that they just so happened to be recording nothing happening at the time just seems a little sketchy. I mean, who just records themselves driving around on the highway like a normal person? A bit odd...

I'm just curious, when you scoped it what tones did you use and what were their amplitudes? If you used a 0dB tone, then that's probably why.

Haha, I know what that's like. My dad bought the router and bits for me, and I had ordered the jasper 200 with the intention of using it on his router. I told him I either wanted a router or a good circular saw for my birthday, so he decided to get me the router cuz it cost more. A couple years ago I had gotten him a really nice $290 Bosch 14.4V cordless drill (which is even better that my electric drill!) for Christmas and he kept saying he'd get me something really nice sometime because of that. So I guess I kinda earned it, lol.

6 cubes net, tune to around 34hz (or anywhere from 30-36Hz) with 100-120 square inches of port. that's probably roughly what you'd be happy with. And just get some decent amps, those Power Acoustiks are a waste of money.

I am not much of a fan of GM at all, but I love Trailblazers. They look great and they have a great AWD setup. I just wish they came in stick... Any plans for this thing?

I bought mine on amazon.com It was $38.88 shipped with their 'super saver' shipping. Took like a week to get it, but well worth it. http://www.amazon.com/Jasper-200J-Circle-Cutting-Plunge/dp/B00009K77A Edit: Forgot to say; The mounting holes didn't work for my router so I had to drill and countersink my own mounting holes in the jig, but it worked.

Thanks guys. My birthday was actually on Thursday, I just got lazy and didn't post it up right away, lol. Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. At least I have 4 to burn through before I'm screwed, lol.