tonedeaf

Tuning of the sub shouldnt effect the warmth of the sub unless its drastically low next to the FS of the driver. Even then I doubt heat would be one of the issues. Im just confused how if the sub is getting 1500 RMS now and getting hot, how is giving it 1600 from another amp gonna help? Have you tried another amp on it other than the AP? Are you now certain the AP is the problem? That being said, your best bet is a new battery up front, biggest XS that will fit, and a D3400 or something in the back. Your voltage should be rock solid all day. Also, with the sub on 1000 RMS it shouldnt be stupid quiet unless somethings wrong. Being at 3/4 of the suggested RMS should give it a nice response unless the sub is terribly underrated. But with yours getting hot at 1500, I dont see that being underrated at all. Upping it by another 500 shouldnt magically make it 4 times as loud. Not hating, just saying.

Max power 1 ohm 5000W X 1 When max power is listed, thats a nono #1. And no RMS rating at 1 ohm? Fishy. Also, when your looking for 5k watts for a amp, expect to pay well over the $200 this is rated. I would run far away from anything they make. I smell pyle quality.

I dunno if it's the lack of sleep, but that humors me. Sigged, for whatever reason... I try.

Judge for yourself: BTW, 4 12"s is = to one 48" sub. Just an FYI.

Bullshit hes a joke. I learned everything I know from this guy. If you REALLY want to know what Dr. Subwoofer is about, educate yourself:

The first one has the extra set of PA speaker CLAMPED TO THE TRUNK. When you have to clamp extra speakers on the trunk to show off, yeah, parking lot champion it is.

Also, HT...the fail pic you put up, just a coincidence that it looks EXACTLY like the guy getting a demo? Just curious...

It doesn't matter who built it. Meade still works a regular job like the rest of us, and his tahoe puts up 157+ NOT WALLED. Walled vs not walled is a very big difference. Also, what HT said.

Your clearly not from the south. Started up on beer and moonshine since I was 12.

When are those shipment of woofas expected? We wants updates yo. :peepwall: :peepwall: :peepwall:

Next question, since im relocating the battery to the trink, should I ground the battery to the chassis or to the engine bay? It seems like grounding it to the engine ground would be a waste of wire. Just find a good grounding point in the trunk (i.e. strut tower} and call it a day?

The new 8" type Rs are supposed to be very good SQ wise. Bunch of people talking them up on other forums.

Aren't 125 amp ANL fuse's easy to find? My favorite company Stinger. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=ldymls&pq=tsunami+125+amp+anl+fuse&xhr=t&q=125+amp+anl+fuse&cp=0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1440&bih=775&bs=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=13573220277953643360&sa=X&ei=gcHgTYTBAcjl0QHMmv2fBw&sqi=2&ved=0CGIQ8wIwAw Yeah, couldnt find them on sonicelctronix...but then found them on darvex. $5 per fuse is rape though. $5 for a ANL fuse is a hell of a deal. If I tried to buy ANY ANL fuse locally it would cost between $9 to $12. It doesnt help knowing im about to spend $400 and its only on wire, RCAs, installation accessories, and no gear. Makes me cry sometimes. Thats a hell of a chunk of money that could go to a sub or amp.

Aren't 125 amp ANL fuse's easy to find? My favorite company Stinger. http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&sugexp=ldymls&pq=tsunami+125+amp+anl+fuse&xhr=t&q=125+amp+anl+fuse&cp=0&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&biw=1440&bih=775&bs=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=13573220277953643360&sa=X&ei=gcHgTYTBAcjl0QHMmv2fBw&sqi=2&ved=0CGIQ8wIwAw Yeah, couldnt find them on sonicelctronix...but then found them on darvex. $5 per fuse is rape though.

Okay, so I would assume using a 150 amp ANL fuse is my best bet for my highs amp then, seeing as thats the closest I can get over its 120 amp fusing?

I am relocating my D5100r from under the hood to the trunk and will start my battery bank back there. My question is, if the amp itself is already fused (I.E. my highs amp I just got is exterior fused by 3x40A fuses) and the power wire run isnt going to be more than a few feet, is it really necessary to run a fuse? I realize it is for safety most of the time to protect against a power wire grounding against something, etc., but with such a short run im curious if it truly is necessary. Also, currently I have the big three done and the power wire from my alt is fused by the alt, do I need to add a second fuse to the wire before the battery, or will the one by the alt do the job? Just a couple things I wanted to make sure before I order this fuckton of wire and fuseblocks and shit. Thanks!

Id do a bit more than tape. Eggs in the box wouldnt be the best thing in the world.

Guess the closest thing we've got is the ot forum.

Good shit. Videos out there, but I like the song nonetheless.

Im guessing this. Only reason I could see it necessary is lowered cars that wont fit on a normal trailer.

^^ x 1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000.

I took it literally as others did i think. 1, final answer. AM I A MILLIONAIRE?????

I see a very loud sausage on it's way.

Blah...new shop pack or not? My birthdays in a couple weeks. gogo

The DC is actually insanely cheap for the power IMO This. Its priced competitively close to the SAZ100.4 if im not mistaken, and puts out alot more power.