tonedeaf

I gotta ask, what's your limit? Or do you just wait for the itch and impulse? There's only so much you can do to keep making this better. Do you have a goal, or just to be as loud as you can possibly be daily? With all the steel and doing everything the right way, I could see you tripling the power with the wall exstentsion and I'm not too sure other than aesthetics what your plan is to up this anymore. So my main question, do you have a goal for this thing on numbers, records, etc? Or just having a blast blowing peoples heads up?

Heres what will solve your issue...ready? Sure you're ready? Blowthrough. Be a man.

My lvl 5 is in 2.5 cf to give you an example. I'd do 2 ft, but didn't think it'd fit. Get as close to 2 ft as you can or switch to a 10" if you haven't bought the sub yet.

Yeah, too small, especially since you forgot to input the displacement of the sub which is probably around .15 feet. Shoot more towards atleast 1.5 unless you don't have the room.

Find a place you can find a job and survive. Buddy moved to tx and had to work three jobs just to stay afloat. Think about it, Texas can find workers for cheap as fuck if you know what I mean. Just don't go blindly with a load of cash and expect it to last very long without a plan.

Darvex.com Stinger hpm twisted 14g. My favorite speaker wire I've used so far. Liked it more than knu.

Iirc there were a couple canadians that died doing this a year or so ago. Yeah..... I'd try it.

Depends on if you want to build in the trunk or not. Doubt you could just set a 10cf box in the trunk through the opening. Also, I'm assuming you mean gross. Net is AFTER displacement.

4 15s = more cone area and a TON more motor force. Not to mention moat POWs to 4 than 2. you can also use up a ya more space for the 15s than the 18s. It will give them a more efficient box but not big enough to worry about losing mechanical control/bottoming out, etc.

Iirc his score prior was 159.8. The 9ks come with dual inputs, he just put dual inputson each input.

Kickass sub. Did they change the cooling a ton?

Bass race 159.9 class? Lol Knew it was there. As said, pics of dual inputs. Who made yours? Or did you?

Serious question requires serious reply. Theres several builds using pure copper rods for powering.

More strands is not always better as the strands may not be as thick, or what have you. What matters is its pure OFC copper wire. This one having 20 more strands than that one will make no noticeable difference. The wire being CCA vs OFC is a much bigger issue. Just get a quality wire such as Tsunami comp, Kicker comp, Shok comp OFC, or a quality welding OFC wire and be done with it. Be less worried about the tiny stuff and more on setting gains and getting boxes right and Car audio will be less of a headache.

There are reports that Obama doesnt have a birth certificate and that Clinton had sexual relations with whats her name. Doesnt mean its true. But in all seriousness, idk whats right or wrong with those accusations/reports/documents, all I know is that the rich taxes should be increased. But theres a TON of things that need and will never get done through congress as long as the democrats and the republicans are at eachothers throats instead of worrying about the issues at hand.

Lvl 4s wont really take 2k daily. An XL will. At about the 1500-2000 watts a piece is when i'd look to XLs. Im a firm believer in getting the top subs and upgrading power as you go. A FUCKTON cheaper then gett lvl 4s and 2 months later having to up to xls because your 4s cant take more power. Likewise from xls to lvl 5s and that goes for anything. I think you would notice an decent increase moving to the XLs once you have the power to feed them.

More bling = the XS stickers. She even moar sexay. And the whole 'hooked her up yet', glad you assumed I meant the batteries.

You hooked her up yet? Hows the drop with the 12k? Loving it and that box is so fucking sexy. Now with more bling.

Do both after getting internals. No lag from the KB is killer, but I think since you have the low end you'd get more out of the turbo once spooled.

Hrmmm if only you were more south IL. Im in southeast missouri...I may pm you later about the battery and the AQ. In for any trades by chance? Have an amp if you're looking to downgrade on power.

This for sure. I've had a ton of friends who nearly jumped my throat when I told them im considering signing up. They hate it right now. I would imagine in 10 years, they'll think different.

I think the current 4 at the top right now are the best, although most of these builds are kickass. Keep up the votes.

I mean fuck, my 1990 Nissan sentra with a fucked up hood, bent radiator support, fucked up windshield wipers with a busted windshield sold for $700 with 205k on it. Long story short, my dad backed into the car. Then the hood flew up on me going 70 down the highway. Lucky I'm alive I guess. :or3ly:

Even a pos car is worth $500 if it runs. So price is good. No clue on the intake.

I believe for example, Ray charges like $5 per sheet at his shop. As for dyna extreme...id suggest SS over that. Regular damplifier is supposed to be equivalent to dynamat extreme. Theres a guy in the for sales that has 2 boxes of the stuff for $350 shipped I beklive. GREAT price. Its the damplifier pro. Id suggest it > dynamat.