AMI CUSTOMS

For one L7 15, I would do 8 0 sq inches of port MAX, unless you aren't going to put shit on it for power. That sub needs between 5-6 cubes to get LOUD.

What size does iraggi recommend, it is their alt.

smaller pulley helps keep the rotor at the proper speed to maintain good current output, usually a smaller pulley will produce more current at idle, it basically shifts the current output curve lower in the rpm range, you can overspin the rotor and damage the bearing if the pulley is too small.

Voted, nice story too.

Check wiring, could have one wired out of phase or wired at a higher ohm load so it isn't getting as much power, this is assuming both subs are the same age....

I need some help from anyone that is willing, I have a picture that I would like for someone to edit for me, PM if you can help, what I need done, is the picture is of a car and I need the background completely removed and a outline of the car drawn in vector format. ai format. Let me know if you can help me out. Thanks

Moved to correct location****by me

But I have tested Kinetik and XS Power, the XS power batts recovered voltage ALOT faster then the Kinetik. That is all I got.

Never tested the 12 volt versions, but the batcap 8400 is as good as it gets, there is no better battery for 16 volt out there.

Since you have Kicker squares 12's, design the box like it was for 15's since that is about the cone area you have, You need alot of port area for 4 and it would need to be pretty long, don't do aero's so one big ass slot port. Just use a slot port calculator, there is one on this site and 12volt has one too. But it is gonna need to be long, I can tell you that. Give me your exact dimensions and I can figure it for you if you are lazy.

I have two used Kicker L7 15's, these are the current 2009+ model, they are dual 4 ohm, if you need a picture of proof of ohm on each coil, let me know, I have an fluke meter to confirm. Rate of subs audio quality 10/10, and on physical appearance 9/10(only because the back of the magnet on each sub is a little scuffed). They were wired on a new memphis 2500 mojo amp, best termlab score at a show, outlaw style was a 150.9 and in my testing best was 151.1 Asking $400 for the pair plus shipping obo and I am willing to split the subs up, will sell individually. If paying will paypal either include(add) 3% to total or send money as gift. Will accept check or money order as well, pm for details. Any questions ask, Trades considered depending on what you got. Thanks SOLD!!!!

I have one in my WALL, you don't see to many done like that, I used bolts and T-nuts on back side. Works like a champ.

The car that is sitting in my driveway. 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X How she sits now

What a daily driver? My truck, my walled sierra, quad alt setup it is daily driver. Actually drive it all the time.

My testing and other people that have done it and I have seen the voltage read outs to confirm it was actually at said voltage confirmed by DMM. <<<<<Is that a run on, felt like it.

Suggested to go that high? NO, I wouldn't advise that, once you start to get that high with the voltage weird shit starts happening. I have had my walled sierra actually up to 16.2 with ZERO issues on a 12 volt system with the quad alts just to see how it would like it. It did fine. I did notice on other GM's and my truck that when you start to raise that voltage up over 16 volts, the main components that really doesn't like it is the fuel pump, on my truck that bitch was screaming. I have another competitor I know that ran 16 volts on his daily with zero issues. You are gonna charge anywhere from 2.2 - 2.9 higher then the base voltage(not rest voltage) of the system. Example, 12 volts you charge at 14.2 - 14.9, 14 volts at 16.2-16.9, and 16 volts at 18.2 - 18.9, you can go higher will all these, you may peak up to 19.5 on a 16 volt system for example, just know your battery limits. And yes the GM ecu has no problem with voltage in the 16 volts range, haven't tested past 16 volts, so I can't say if it is higher, I don't have to brass at the moment to brick my ecu yet.....LOL

If it is the same thickness as mdf, it will sound the same. it is just material not some magic thing, so if you build a box out of wood 3/4 inch thick, then out of fiberglass it would need to be the same thickness otherwise it will flex and sound bad.

Good luck breaking a 55 in a soft top....Not bad job.

GM ecu's can take up to 16.8 volts, do some research....LOL

Knock some off your teeth out and put them under your pillow and collect your money and quit being a penny pincher....LOL I just think this thread is funny 30 bucks....LOL

You ignition is Pink. ACC is Orange. Both at ignition harness.

Don't do that shit. Wire the hu up right.

To make the HU work probably, you need to have three wire connected, red, yellow, black. Black is ground, yellow is 12 volt constant and red is ignition, if your in vehicle ignition at the radio location is not working then you need to wire to another ignition source or replace the fuse that is blown. The ignition at the ignition harness always works if you key is working and starting the vehicle. The pink wire at the ignition harness works for your ignition.

What if his cig lighter stays on all the time like in just about every GM made vehicle out there? LOL

What make and model and year vehicle? Go to the ignition harness usually.