RooTxBeeR

I wonder how much shipping there and back from Chicago would be. Would like to see what my AQ 750 does

It's the formula everyone uses to find cone area. Now it may be slightly off because a 12" subwoofer's cone is not exactly 12" inches in diameter. If you can find specs on the sub for the actualy cones diameter, than you'll be set. Also if you do find that and don't know what a radius is, it is half of the diameter. ie. If you have a diamter of 11, your r=5.5

3.14*r^2 where r is the radius.

Your last reply to me answered your own question then lol

So in the title you want to play louder than lower, yet two references in your post state you still want to be able to play low. As far as comparing the SA-12's to the T3 audio 12's, did you just simply, switch the subs out in the same box? If so that is probably the reason why. Different subs like different enclosures. ANd to be honest, that is key to getting what you want. A properly designed box will give you the results you want.

you are correct if i was to run each amp as a single setup but when u strap the master controls both amps . If the technology of that specific amplifier is like that, where you set all settings on master amp than yes, leave the slave alone. I lokoed past that fact when I was explaining. I was thinking of using 2 non strappable amplifiers to gain match.

You set both the slave and master amplifier with the DD-1. Then you take a Digital Multi Meter and measure each amplifiers DC(is that right?) voltage(if not AC). Write both numbers down, and then you retune the higher of the two amps to the lower voltage, so that both have the same exact voltage showing. Master/Slave functions is only there to tell the other amplifier to turn on.

No, when Matching gains, you set both. Then hook a DMM up to them to read the output voltage. Then you take the lower of the two numbers, and make sure both your amps are showing the exact same number.

Thanks for showing me that game. I am definetely going to look more into it. Never knew of any PC race simulators. Thing looks dope though man, and I can't wait to see how the 1440p tunrs out.

Well it is D'Amore enginerring. I am sure Tony has a good say in what parts are used in his products lol

Don't count on that TOO much.

they have to make money sure, but why lie to him to do it? Was it the shop owner or the employee that said they would price match? Maybe the employee lied to get you there and then asked the owner after the fact. Kinda what it sounds like. That could be it. I agree with you OP 100%. I would be down to make that type of trup also, but to make that trip just to get lied to. It don't work like that with me. I have strong integrity, if I tell you I am going to be here at a certain time, or I can do X for this person. I do it, I don't change while someone is on their way. Good job not caving, because I know that big of a trip could make someone just say fuck it and spend the extra money. But it is all about integrity, you won't go anywhere in life with out.

Well looks like I have some time now to learn way more about overlap until I get the new one. Going to trade mine in.

ok beleive i got it now so lpf all way up hpf all way down x-over on flat and headunit eq's on flat and im good to go from there? yes lol

Anything and everything that effects the source of your signal. All crossovers set to off if possible. If not do what you said about the filters for hpf and lpf. Bass boost always off, any eq setting, set to 0 flat or off.

Any adjusting you do that involves your dd -1, you must set am your settings to flat prior to use. Then after set them back to where you liked them.

You asked at 8am, you can't expect your question to be answered in minutes. The people on here that have the knowledge are normal people who have everyday lives. Everything on your amps and head unit should be set to flat, then afterwards adjust to what the other guy said in your other post.

Did you ever replace that factory HU? Or all those problems where all factory things? Just curious, my friend did want to get a double din to replace the stock one. No. The Acura TSX oem HU has 90% of everything in it. From Heat/AC, to the fucking cruise control. Swapping it out like steve in his lex, was not a option. its ok. It all worked out. Im enjoyin my new plat form, and the car is happier with out all the weight, and getting worked over day after day. Ok thanks for the info. When we talked about it he was talking about some stuff that it would be possible. Well when ever he ends up getting in touch with me to actually do something to his car I'll look more into it.

Did you ever replace that factory HU? Or all those problems where all factory things? Just curious, my friend did want to get a double din to replace the stock one.

Still accruate too lol. Clean it and put it on display

I am pretty sure I used 0db on my 4 channel. I used the -10 on my sub amp, my subs coil is nice and black, I play lot's of decaf and stuff of the like. Previous builds I will be using -5.

So many people are going to love this lmfao!!!

I just realized now, what this thing is really capable of. You really need to get on that 1440 status LOL. I bet that setup can run 7680x1440 flawlessy and look so damn amazing while doing it. I am interested at what monitors you pick, been looking at buildinging something to run that type of monitor set up.

Now that you say, thinking about how you would use a tool like that with that type of box. How would it work lmao. In for details!