Derrick824

Buy from HighDesertAudio. They're the only authorized RF dealer on Ebay and their amps come with a warranty. I believe they've been selling the T30001bd for $800.

Alltel here too. There a great company.

Whoa, not me. I love the gadgets and won't get rid of them.

Or you can simply right-click on the side bar, gotto properties, uncheck start side bar when windows starts, then click "close side bar".

Its something new with Vista. Its gives your computer a score and then you use that score to know if your computer can handle certain games or programs. Go to your Control Panel and look at your System Information. You should see the Windows Experience Index there.Here's a link: http://www.microsoft.com/windows/products/...3.7&D3D=3.2

I had a RF Power 800a2 and the birthsheet read 1100watts which is almost the 1200w your looking for but as said above its not stable bridged at 2ohms. To find that in a RF amp you either have to go with an older mono bd style (like a bd1000) or a newer Power two channel (like a T8002). The older RF bd amps are going for around $250 on Ebay and the T8002s are going for $350.

Mine has to be the rear mounted lcd screen. It keeps the kids quiet even on short trips to the store. I just have to deal with listening to Happy Feet, Bratz, Scooby Doo, etc. all the time.

X2. If you don't mind Ebay then you could easily find an older BD1000 for $250. You would have to go with a Hifonics bx2006 to get 1200w @ 2ohm and they run $350-365.

I'm curious to know what your Windows Experience Index is. I only have a 3.2 for gaming graphisc because I went with a base graphics card (I'm not into gaming) but my processor, RAM, and data transfer is between 5.1-5.8 which is supposed to be a pretty good score.

I love Vista and the gadgets. Mine shows the weather, cpu meter, and headlines. With 2gb ram and a Core2Duo 2.13ghz processor its pretty fast. Its much better overall than my previous computer (WinXP, Pentium 4 3ghz, & 1gb ram).

X2 on the "cheap shit" comment but if your happy with shit then its your opinion that really counts.

I currently compete in the Truck/Suv 501-1500 class. The only restrictions I have in this class are that no part of my sub enclosure can come past the B pillar and the total 4ohm rating of my ampifiers cannot exceed 1500watts. I've been using a pair of Hifonics Brutus BX2005Ds but I'm in the process of switching to 2 or 3 RF T10001bds. What subs could I power optimally with a T10001bd? So far I'm leaning towards some RF T2 12s but I'm also strongly considering some Fi BL 12s. My only personal restrictions are that this is a daily driver and I would like to keep the box small and simple. My goal is to hit 150+. Is this attainable with 3 RF T2 or 3 Fi BL 12s powered by 3 RF T10001bds? Also, I had a competition this afternoon and I hit a 144.6 w/ a pair of the HX2s powered by a T10001bd. Thats only 1db less than the 145.6 I hit with the same subs & box powered a Hifonics BX2005D which is supposed to have twice the power.

This is almost exactly what I've been using except for the slot port. I prefer aeros because its easier to change the tuning for daily driving. I think I'll try a slot port just to see what difference it might make.

The main question I have here is how can I lose 2db when I'm doubling my system? W/ two rear-facing 12s I hit 145s yet with 4 rear facing 12s I only hit 143s. How's that possible?

Its in an '06 Yukon. I've already tried it with subs and ports facing up which was the worst ever at 141db.

Screw the pics. I want to see some vids!

I compete in local spl competitions regularly soo I'm always trying different things to see what kind of difference they make. I'm basically trying to find out what I can do to get the maximum spl out of what I have. The first setup consisted of a pair of RF 12" Punch HX2s in a 4.5ft box w/ a pair of 4" aeroports tuned to 38hz. The subs and ports were all facing the rear and w/ a peak frequency of 45hz I consistently hit in the 145s. I felt that this was a good score for my setup and didn't see any way to gain anymore so I bought another pair of HX2s. The next box consisted of four HX2s facing up w/ 4 4" aeroports facing the rear. This was good for 147s but my peak frequency dropped to 40hz so I felt there was a little more left in it if I could get my frequency back up. Next I changed up the box so that all four subs & ports were facing the rear. This got my peak frequency back up to 45hz and sounds louder than ever to the ear but I'm only reading 143s on the TermLab. I'm a little confused with this. The only thing I can think might be causing me problems is that I had to "flip-flop" the position of the subs & ports in order to fit them all onto one side of the box. There are two subs pushed all the way to the top while the other two are pushed down to the bottom and the same with the ports. Could their positions be causing some sort of cancellation? Right now I'm considering dropping to a lower class and competing with only one pair of subs since I've done better than anyone else in that class. I'm also considering trying out a new box with three rear facing subs & ports. With only three I'll be able to keep everything even across the rear side of the box. So my final questions are; Any ideas what could be holding me back with my current setup? Any ideas that you would recommend me trying with my setup in the future? Thanks.

This is just the test I want to see. An Fi BL w/ options goes for the same price as a RF T2. I'm a true RF fanatic but I've been strongly considering switching to Fi BLs. Has anyone actually experienced the two subs in person? I'm thinking the BL would win in an spl showdown.

$900 can get you a RF T30001bd from HDA.

I would have recommended a RF T10001bd also. I just bought one Sunday from HDA for $337 shipped. Let us know how that loaded BL works out. Vids would be nice. I'm seriously thinking of breaking away from my RF fetish and running some loaded BLs myself.

IMO a RF T1 and an FI BL aren't in the same class. I've never heard a BL in person but going by the specs of the sub it would kill a T1 given the proper amount of power. According to FI a loaded BL will handle 1700w rms compared to the "rated" 600w rms of an RF T1.

I know that feeling. Its not that hard to put it back to stock if needed.

They're only available with dual 1.4ohm coils. For a couple competitions I used a pair of TRF 12s running off a pair of Hifonics bx2005d's @ 0.7ohms and they were pretty loud in my Yukon. I can only imagine powering them with a pair of T4000s

If you can't find a hole to run the wire through you can always drill a hole and use a grommet/bushing such as these. http://cgi.ebay.com/Firewall-Grommet-4-AWG...1QQcmdZViewItem http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...tnumber=263-635 Its been a while since I ran my wire but I remember the door sill plates popping right out and having a tract underneath that was perfect for running the power wire through. Also since you have top posts on your battery I recommend using some quality terminals. They're easy to install, look great, and aren't that expensive. Here's a link to the ones I'm using. They're RF platinum series and they're only $37 for the pair. I got mine a year ago through HDA for $20. http://cgi.ebay.com/2-ROCKFORD-FOSGATE-0-1...VQQcmdZViewItem

That is true, but you're also not supposed to go below 1ohm on a single amp. Thats why I asked if there was any way to strap a pair of T2000s to a 1.4ohm load so they would each see 0.7ohms (same as the T4000s would see) and that way the pair of T2000s would give him more power than a single T4000. I didn't see anywhere that he was using TRFs which are only available with dual 1.4ohm coils. If thats the case then go for a single T4000 per sub @ 0.7ohms.