White Lightning

Most Sound Quality vehicles run front stage only ... true ... But most of those vehicles I've demoed seem to be lacking rear ambience to me ... Most people do not run rear drivers because they think that adding rear drivers will pull their stage back instead of being up and out on the hood where it should be ... In my opinion, if you can not run rears because it pulls your front stage back behind the radio ... you installed your system wrong ... plain and simple ... Rears should be installed to compliment your front stage to enhance stage width and give that rear ambience effect like your hear in movie theatres ... And I cant stand the driver seat sounding perfect and the passenger seat sound like shit ... This is why I ONLY compete 2 seat judging ... Both seats should sound great !!! My wife drives alot and I like to hear my sound system sounding good on the passenger side as well as the driver seat ... If you have a daily driver where 4 people sit and ride alot ... 4 door component set installs sound great ... you can always adjust the system with fader and EQ ... My kids ride in the back seat of mine all of the time ... This decision mainly depends on what do YOU want out of your system ... people ride in your back seat ?? You want great sounding music ?? or are you interested in stage and image ?? Honnestly, I would do a component set in each door ... I think that Trail Blazer (Bose setup) had a 8" driver in the front doors, So I know that a 8" component set will go in those doors, and a 6.5" component set in the rears ... put a shit ton of power on them and you should be very suprised with your system ... Remember to use your fader and EQ for stage and image ... again ... all of this is just my suggestions based on what I've seen done to those vehicles in Sound Quality competitions ... Best of luck to you Sir ...

Do those door pannels have factory locations for a component set in all 4 doors ?? I think the chevy Trailblazer does ... Well, atleast the one we worked on did ... thinking it was a Bose setup ...

Very interesting setup Sir ... Very clean !!!

LOL ...

Awesome

Nice !!!

our vehicles have actuall frames, and you should ground to the body of the vehicle too ... I do not have any grounds that go from my front battery(s) to my rear battery bank ... I use my frame as the ground. No ground wire on my truck is longer than 24 inches ... and most of those are under 18 inches long ...

Why don't you just do 8 10s ported to 34 htz, get rid of the back seat, stay below the window line, and be done with it ...

I will try to get him on the SMD forum ... but personally, I don't use them ... I've only seen them in action ... My educated guess is that he ran his midbass drivers down low enough (similar to the way I have mine) so you could not literally "Hear" the transition between drivers / devices ...

Welcome to SMD

His name is Mike Flanagan ... on of the only few "Ampless" vehicles in the car audio competition world ...

Go to http://www.#$%^!@#$%&^%%*(^&%C%^&*#.com and pm CrownVic ... He lives in Memphis and is really good with bass systems ... I'm sure he will help you, tell him that Cableguy184 sent you

I believe some people use the "bass shakers" in their furniture in home theaters to add another sensory effect to their movie experience. I've never personally seen it done but have read about it before. I've seen a car win a Car Audio world championship with 2 of these in his vehicle ... (a team mamber of our group) ... Like I said, You have to know what you are doing when you use a product like this ...

I agree ... It will not work ... too many bad variables ... this is my best solution ... and yes, run the subs in separate enclosures please ...

In a Sound Quality world ... these things would supprise you ... To use a tool like this, you really need to "Know what you are doing" ... they are nothing for the SPL world for sure ...

I would try this out in my home too ...

Yeah, But it would make a nice science experiment What would catch on fire first ??? Subs or amps ??? Make sure you take a good video of this ... my money is on the amps ...

you would be better off running 1 sub per amp ... for one amp to see a 1 ohm lod and the other sees 2 ohms ... Might not be the "Correct" way of doing things, but you will have a better chance of not burning amps up ...

get your trucks color code off the driver door and go to NAPA and get color matched paint ... You might want to get someone that does automotive paint and body work to help you do this ...

Duct tape

my Kenwood has a cable that goes to the emergency brake to ground out when the brake is applied ... All I did was run that to the headunit ground ... works great ... Not sure if this will work on oter brands ...

The more electrical you install, better the chances too ... Alternator, cable, extra bateries ...

You can never have too much electrical ... Please make sure that you have a short body ground at each battery and amp ...

Juat about any source unit you have will only put out signal for left and right ... hence red and white RCA outputs ... Your reciever "Processes" the signal to a 5.1 surround sound output ... HDMI, fiberoptic, RCA, or even coax cable ... it doesn't really matter to a everyday system ... your Reciever will process the information to your system output ... I will say the better the source unit, the better the signal will be to the reciever ...

First thing I would do is install a relay for each light ballast ... and run a larger cable from your batteries to your relays ... and make sure that your grounds are as solid as your Car audio system ... I am in the process of doing this to mine ...