audiofanaticz

as everyone else said, alarm! Who puts anything in their vehicle with no protection... I sure will never again!! well maybe just a headunit, but nothing more.

trust me I called dd, and they sent me to Earth shattering audio in westbend. I called them, they where like you mean the z1a, I said no the z2lv, they asked for my number and would do some checking, they called me back and said Blah Blah Blah 1550. Maybe it is a competitor price, Im not sure, I just know the price I was quoted.

:01nocomment8so:

no You can get them far under $2k each, I called the closest DD dealer and they wherent familar with the amps so they called DD and called me back saying $1500. soundpressure is from another country and non of their prices are US dollars, you will be paying way more. I got one of my spls from sound pressure, trust me I know!

Who knows what is true, but there is a lot of different opinions on the amps 12v and 16 volt versions. http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/...c/20/13954.html What good is a warranty when you get dicked around all over the place? theres some nice horror threads on termpro about the customer service... http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/...c/20/14300.html Then I also remember someone else that had 2 stetsoms and one was blew up they sent it out for a exchange, and they get the new one, which was all dinged and scratched up, and susposivly these amps where for a show car. http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/...c;f=20;t=014139

clean looking box!!

I believe so james. Id also check into ground zero engeenering, they have a Germany distrubuter http://www.ground-zero-audio.com/

hmm you can get the z2lv pretty resonible, I got a price from a dd dealer for $1550 or $1500US, and they didnt even know about the z2lv so they had to call dd and call me back. Im pretty sure that is a retail price not a comp price. Otherwise Check into sound digital maybe. But one thing your going to notice with stetsom, sound digital, cactus or any other company from over seas is your going to have a nice international shipping charge, I brought some amps in from Finland and I paid over $200 shipping per amp Edit, I just seen your from Germany, so that may narrow costs down again What are your wants and needs for a amp (price, power, ohm playing amp at)?

I actually think you need the 7kd16v amp on the daily driver stereos, it will play down to 13 or 14 volts or something like that. Where as the 7kd12v or whatever is meant to be used with the car off "burp only pratically" amp meant for spl classes where car must be turned off, and the amp will fry at anything over 13 volts. I remember reading something like that on termpro. But last week it was the ab 500.1 vs the dd z1a now this week its the stetsom 7kd16v vs the dd z1a Seems like someone is looking for a decent new amp and it taking votes. Lol Id just say get a DD Z2lv and have 8000+ watts rms by 1 @ 1 ohm 14.4 volts This amp replaces the ddz1a and will do way more power

nice to know james. That just proves that companies that have rebadged amps are only simular in design but run different/better parts. Vote NO to american bass

If your buying the amp new, I say DD. American bass has a undisclosed flaw about their amps.. If you let them sit at a idle or turn your sub preamps off or have volume on zero your amp will get hot sometimes kicking protect or just going up in smoke. Only amps Ive ran so far that ever done this. Being that they are Zenon built I believe, I wonder if sundowns have this same flaw which is also zenon built??

Well if your theory is true, there would be no need for subs that handle these high wattages. we will use Meade for an example since we all know his setup, if he swapped out his btls for some 18s that where 1000watts rms or even peak, and used just one rf t40001bd. He would be lucky to break 150s let alone 145-148 deebeez. Also to go along with Forevrbumpn spider comment, some companies use many spiders like DD for example that have 8+ spiders with a mixture of medium to stiff spiders, while other companies only run 4 super stiff spiders like sundown and fi I wanna say. A sub with a weaker spider will reach its mechanical limits before a sub with a super stiff spider. My boss has some custom built Image dynamics idqmax subs that he use to run in his extreme vehicle that have only 1 weaker spider. He burped something like 174's on a termlab (sealed in the kick) on 3 15s with about 12krms. The subs took the power fine, but he said on music you would tear the spiders and launch the cones, but it gave him a edge back in the day having speakers that would hand the power with the weak suspensions. Most the time when your looking at 500 watt subs however, your gonna be lucky to find them with a 2.5 inch voice coil, let alone a 3 inch.

at the first 15 seconds of the video you see a really gigantic guy walking in a grey shirt with man boobies. If you pause it, or play it back a time or two and look at him, it really looks like Will Castro from Unique Whips. Lol

if only they where 18s, i may have 2 dd9518s to trade....

/////\//CE!

damn.. now i gotta be worried aboout gettin hit with the ban stick.

I wouldnt see why not. You may not be able to find a car audio brand name that makes a 200amp midi, but they do exist. Stinger makes a 175 for sure http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Co...sid/0/SFV/30046 Here is a 200amp http://shop.pcscables.co.uk/MIDI-Fuse-200A.html

No, I think the biggest you can get is 200amp midis. But The fuse block takes 2 midi fuses in series ( i want to say) for fusing protection up to 300 amps. I have two 150 amp fuses in the block, one on each side is what its made for.

No. Ive had no problems with the midi fuses yet, they serve their purpose.

Id do 1 run of negative from front to back, maybe 2 if you got the spare cash. Id also do a positive run from the stud on your alternator to the rear batteries. Or if you got 2 runs of positive going front to back, just swap one over to the alt stud. Another thing that can be major is the placement of your power and ground wires comming into your battery bank. As well as your location you get your power from your amps. Kinda hard to explain, but basicly have your power connections comming in at the first battery, and have your grounds come in at your last battery. Still use the same method of running buss bars on the batteries, but make sure you have the power on one side, and the negative on the other side to ensure a even flow of electricity thru all batteries. I may just do things over board tho Edit: I would then wire your amp off of the middle battery in the good diagram.

Oh snap!! I got James posting on one of my threads!! w00t w00t (just be careful bro, Im comming for that forum asshole title)... Thanks for showing my subs some love man! My sub torture must put tears in your eyes then...

You had to ask after I disconnected it all...... Lol go figure... Umm not really much to describe about it, but there was something I was wanting to try that I havent really seen done yet. But Im gonna have to try it with a crap amp incase it dont work in my favor. So dont expect any crazy sub excursions. Lol but first i must clean up my living room from the other days creations.

^^^ yes they can.

e_train thought of flipping the sub on its surround and see what it would do. I tried it but thats a lot of sub to lift!! Around the last 12 or 9 seconds of the video i toss a roll of electrical tape on the sub, you can hear it bounce of the cone and smack the ceiling pretty hard!.