audiofanaticz

yea, id check that tps too. Just had that problem on my seville a few weeks back. It gets stuck out and doesnt retract in, holding the intake open a tiny bit. Try pushing against it, if it idles down you know its the tps (throttle position sensor). Some TPS (like on my caddy) have a rod that you can turn in and out for more precise adjustment. But a tps is somewhat cheap and a easy fix if thats the problem

A agm charger will work best for charging the batteries (dont really matter in brand name, but the powermaster 12/16volt charger > kinetik chargers) I use a Diehard 10/2/60 amp deepcycle charger. Once it pukes Ill buy a nice powermaster. I have 2 d3100s in my car, and a 8+ year old optima redtop under the hood. My batteries rest around 14.1+ when car is off. I was plugging my car in every night maintain batteries when my stereo was in it and driving it, but since i parked it for the winter I havent touched it, and probolly should. I use a 2 amp manual charge non stop. The low 2 amp trickle charge is not enough to damage the battery, or at least that Ive ever heard. I will just let my batts sit there for weeks at a time if I dont need to drive the car. This will teach the batts to hold a higher rest voltage too. But you need a charger that has a manual switch, otherwise a automatic charger will stop charging the batteries once they are "full" and it wont teach the battery a higher resting voltage. Edit, forgot the link to the charger i got, its old.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DieHard-10%...1171110006r2427

The current orion hcca d5000 is only 2500 watts rms @ 1 ohm. They have a new model for 2009, orion is going back to their Old school routes. The new orion amps are made to competitivly priced with Alpine amps, and the hcca woofer is going to be priced competitivly with the Alpine type X Orion thought about doing stackable amps too, but clearly said thats not their style, and are going back to the old style amps that have the giant red heatsinks. The new orion hcca 5000.1 is to be 1 ohm stable, CEA Compliant, and use the same pcb as a Cactus Sounds 5KW, so the new orion amps should be 5000wrms by 1 @ 1 ohm. The price will be aruond $699, which is very competitive alternitive to many products in a higher price bracket. I wouldnt waste my money on the 2008 orion amps, while the new ones will be more power for ruffly the same price.

Lol thats what i always say about people that hate donks.. Id drive this too! Lol its different but unique! nice truck.

the same thing as omg, mostly used in games again. zomg zOMG is a varient of the all-too-popular acronym "OMG", meaning "Oh My God". The "z" was originally a mistake while attempting to hit the shift key with the left hand, and type "OMG" Also used in all-caps, 'ZOMG' is generally used in a sarcastic manner, more often than not a humiliating fasion. It is also used as a device for stating the obvious. "zOMG! you r teh winz!!one!!eleven!" urban dictonary will give you most terms.. Leetspeak- Originating in the early 1980's, leet speak was first used by hackers as a way to prevent their websites/newsgroups from being found by simple keyword searches. Leet speak grew and became popular in online games such as Doom in the early 1990's as a way of suggesting that you were a hacker (h4x0r), and therefore to be feared. Leet, or 1337, is a short form of "elite," commonly used by video gamers to suggest that they are skilled. meh- Indifference; to be used when one simply does not care. A: What do you want for dinner? B: Meh. Anotherwords, answering a question with a question as if (are you talking to me).

1337 $P3@|< has nothing to do with being a poser of any sorts. It was made up by gamers, for gamers in the early era of internet gaming, when there was no mic capablilitys in games, or team only chat. Teams devised a way to speak to there team in public without the other team knowing what is being said. Im a real person, and I find that I know a bit about computers, and i use it here and there. teh and meh has nothing to do with being leet, or poser. Teh became very popular when teh_pwnerer used it in the PurePwnage.com videos. ( it is pronounced pure ownage, but n00bs say the silent P, as in pizza). I never used meh as ehh.. In the gamer world where I seen it used most, meh means muah, like no not meh, or no not muah (sp). My friends youngest bro is a pro at leet speak he can type things out faster then ever (like normal typing speeds) where I cant even read it.

yea it should click or hear someething. Easy way to check if its the solenoid is to jump the 2 big terminals on it with a screw driver, if the starter cranks, its the solenoid, if it dont. its something else, maybe the starter. You may get lucky and the solenoid maybe under the hood someplace, or its on the starter itself I had a problem a couple years back after cleaning up at the club leaving work, i goto my car and it wouldnt start, i had ign, but no click, no nothing. My floor was pretty soaked from getting into my car with snow on my feet alot, and that all melted in the car, the of coarse froze when it was cold. I ended up towing the car to the caddy garage to have them fix it. Anyone else I knew had no idea (we prayed it wasnt the starter because its in the motor and very expensive) but caddy tested and found out there was some relay or something under the carpets by the driver seat that was corroded and faulted out. There might be a same type of sensor in your car, but I got no idea.

Thanks Roscoe!! Watch is on ebay now. Hopefully it sells for its reserve $200, but will be fine with the $150. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=220323630182 Just a couple higher res pics from a real camera.

trust me, thats always how it is!!

Lmao, tho it is a nice saw to look at, and a great price

Well thats not the case this time I have blown many many many amps. LoL Some either blown because of under voltage, over voltage, crazy low impedance loads, faulty rca's, no protections circuit (sub blew and that took the amp with it), and sometimes just the I dont know what happened Lol I delt with 3 companies so far db-r, arc, and cia (cia is horrid never again!. A+++ to db-r and arc for pricings, but db-r is a very busy place where the sundowns get repaired first then the consumer sent in amps, youll be waiting a bit for your amp back. and arc is seeming to be very reliable, decently fast, and great price) But no matter what amp I had in for any repair when I knew the fets where popped, other things needed repair attention too. No amp just ever needed new fets only. There was a reason that caused your mosfets to get extremely hot, when they get too hot its usally due to being worked to hard, it maybe a clipped signal, it maybe a impedance ohm to low, it maybe that its power acoustik and them being cheaper they used low grade mosfets to keep cost down. I dont know what else to say, but most likely your gonna end up spending the cash on new mosfets, put them in the amp, get it all back together, power it up, and poof again. Then youll be out more cash. I would buy the nicest fets you can buy if your still gonna attempt the repair yourself, they will last longer, and most likely make the amp a little more stable. Also it is wise to replace all mosfets at once. If its the power supply mosfets, replace them all. If its the output mosfets, replace them all. If theres 6 powersupply fets on the left side of the board, but only 3 are burned you should at least replace all 6, if you cant afford to do all 12 (left and right side). The reason for doing them all is because you run the chance or risk of having a different date code or brand and date mosfet completely different then what you currently got. If you buy the nice fets and put them in a pcb with the older weaker fets you will get no real gain in spending the extra cash. Best of luck to you, and hopefully just the fets are actually needing repair. I expect updates and pics, this has the potential for a great do it yourself thread

Boon hit everything on the head. There is always a reason the fets go, usally one 1 goes a lot go, AND ALWAYS TAKING OTHER THINGS WITH THEM. The Higher voltage/ more expensive fets would be a better buy then the el cheapos if you do decide to buy the new fets. But without the proper testing gear, it dont even pay. Send it in and pay for a repair, or take the board out the amp, and scrap the heatsink out for aluminum and buy new.

Do the Big 3, it will prob fix all the dimming. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280 Along with the big 3, run a bigger wire from your battery positive, to the main fuse block under the hood. Some people do it, some dont, but you will get better results if you do You dont gotta use 0 gauge for updating that wire, but at least a 4 gauge wire.

It depends on the company, I think theres a few at the shop that break every sub in they build, I remember reading it, but dont remember who it was (either Sundown Audio, ***, or DC Audio). most cheaper subs dont need much if any break-in time because they have weaker spiders, making the sub not to firm/stiff when you push on the cone. When you get into more pricey subs that are using multi layer spiders the speakers cone tends to be a lot stiffer. Like DC Audio lvl 4, lvl4XL, lvl 5 - Fi btl, bl - DD 3500, 9500, AA mayham, havocs - mtx 9500, just to name a few. Once the spiders get worked in a bit, the cone is a little less firm, and then they may play a little bit louder. Id just turn the sub gain down for a few days to give the speaker a chance to loosen up a bit before you toss lots of power to it.

I seen 2 bass knobs on ebay, but they are the dcr-1 model. Im not sure if they would work with a 2006 bxi-1606. Your best bet would be to contact maxxsonics/hifonics and ask them if they have one you can buy directly from them, or ask them if the dcr-1 model is compatible with your amp. They maybe the same knobs, just different colors, because I think those amps where black, and have a black bass knob. Heres one of the ebay auctions. http://cgi.ebay.com/Hifonics-Bass-Amp-Ampl...p3286.m20.l1116 Heres some contact info: Maxxsonics 847-540-7700 Maxxsonics tech support [email protected] Maxxsonics customer service [email protected]

umm disconnect the bass knob (at the amp), and make sure your amp is turned on, and not in protect. that be the first thing id try. It could be wore out, or there maybe a bad wire for it. If it still dont work, next Id check your speaker. Id find a speaker you have laying around (dont matter what size or anything, it could be a computer or home stereo speaker) and hook that up to the amp, if your certain the test speaker works, and you hear nothing from it when you hook it to the amp you know something is wrong with your amp. But just make sure you have it on a low volume so you dont go and blow your test speaker If your amp isnt putting out sound, and is not in protect, next I think I would check my rca cords from the headunit to the amp, make sure something didnt happen to them and they are no faulty. You can also check on your headunit to make sure subwoofer is turned on and up, maybe some how you where messing with it, and changed it or forgot you changed it, if its off you will have no bumps, and you may think your bass knob faulted out fully while it actually still works half-assed lol

yea it was... Lol It may just be a tad bit different for you guys tho. Im using a 22inch widescreen monitor with 1680by1050 resoulition.

Lol, ok bumpincruiser, yours is now fixed too.

Its all the way at the bottom of the page towards the left side. Like I said, that skin cuts it off partially so its harder too see, here is a screenshot. If you cant figure it out pm me your info and i can do it for ya.

yes im off it. glad i could help.

Bump bump bump! Im sure no one here is interested in this watch unless your an older fella, but thought I might as well try.. Like I said, Im looking for offers, going on ebay proboly tomorrow.

There you go bro! It should be fixed, just log back in and refresh the page, you should be good to go and yea, that skin was hard to see, it was down there but was kinda cut in half making it hard to see

ok.

I just tried all of the skins, and i can see it with everyone, you must open your eyes young gunna