audiofanaticz

He is right shades, didnt sound right at first, What threw you off is the fact that he said 2 ohm woofers, and not 2 ohm dvc's. I bet you feel like a pro huh? I believe these are the subs he is speaking of? http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/pr...S&p_status= Since they are all dvc 2 or 4 ohm subs for the 8s, 10s, 12s, 15s. And the 10s,12s, 15s are all rated for 250wrms/500peak. Coil wiring configs.

Id really get a Directed alarm (viper, python, avitel, clifford). In order for you to have your alarm to trigger by a breaking window, or by someone tossing a penny at the window, you need to buy a glass sensor. Its a little unit that plugs into the brain box and has a mic you stash in your car, there is also a dial on it to set its sensitivity. Im not sure if you can get that add on for a crimeguard, but Im sure you can, but make sure your brain will allow the addition of a glass sensor.

I guess Id go with which one offers the features that you need. I know the newer unit only has 4 channels, while the older unit with the lcd remote offers 6 channels. I also think that one of the alarms does not have the ability to open your trunk and gas door if they have electric releases. So just go thru and check the specs for each alarm, and figure out what you need. The limited channels does sort of suck in a way if you ever wanted to up your alarm with more senors, or if you got the window modules to roll up and down your windows from the alarms remote control. Theres a lot of cool add on toys

They might not be a authorized dealer. That would be something to check into with directed. because there are no additional parts you need to buy, All the wiring, accessories comes with the alarm. You can buy the alarm straight from directed, and what they will do is set you up with a appointment at the nearest authorized directed dealer of your product install, and uless you have bought additional sensors the price should stay the same. At least this is how they use to do it. And those alarms are shipping, theres a few sitting at my friends shop along with a few new cliffords (forget what models), but if they are not an authorized dealer they may not have them avaible to them yet.

Id guess it depends on what kinda vehicle you have the stock alarm on? Does the stock alarm sound if you wack it hard? Does the stock alarm have dome light supervision? Meaning your stock alarm will panic when your door handles are lifted up but the door does not get opened. Does your stock alarm have any sort of fuel cut-off, or starter disable function to stop your car from being hot wired? Does your stock alarm/vehicle have remote start? Does your stock alarm open your gas door/trunk/sliding door? Can you add additional sensors to your stock alarm such as glass breakage sensor, motion sensor, tilt sensor etc. Id say go with a viper, most stock alarms just lock/unlock the doors, honk the horn and flash the lights if the car door is opened while armed.

what he said above. Directed electronics is pretty much the main company. They own Viper avaitel python clifford and some other alarm companies, they also have directed amps/subs and own Orion, precision power (ppi). Pretty much your gonna get performance from any alarm you go with by directed. Vipers, pythons, cliffords all use to be independant companies that all merged together (kinda like hifonics, mb quart, autotek are all owned by maxxsonics). Most of directeds alarms are the same from company to company, they all offer the same features for the same priced alarm, and I think all the nicer units are using the 1 mile range. the only differences you will really notice in them is the alarm parts may be slightly different in the design such as the remotes (different colors, but same overall design), and different looking brain boxes and sensors. Most the time if you upgrade to more sensors, a glass sensor for a viper alarm will work on a clifford and vice versa which is nice. Here is their main site, http://www.directed.com/ edit: like we said, make sure you buy from a authorized dealer! Yea, you can get them way cheaper from ebay, but the prices you see on directeds site is INCLUDING basic installation (which means everything that comes with the alarm). If you buy from ebay, you wont have a warranty and it will also proboly cost more in the long run to buy the cheaper unit at ebay and have it professional installed since you didnt buy the alarm from that shop, and since you didnt buy it from them they probolly wont warranty their install either. Unless your a do it your selfer, but your looking at about 3+ hours easily if its your first time installing alarms.

Its a new alarm from directed, it just recently started shipping them around the end of october/ early november. The specs all seem good on the alarm with many features, however not many have probolly had them installed yet. As I said in the other post, Directed has a lot of new alarms and keyless entry units comming out. I dont know how long it will take for them to release them all but it should be with in the next month or 2 Id hope. There is a color lcd 2 way pager alarm like my 791 comming out soon and Im waiting for that. I know clifford and viper also have new units comming out slowley but surely. They are new products for 2009. I know the clifford units run a smaller antenna vs the responder antennas that where used on the xv791s, the range is longer, shorter antennas, and a brighter bluer LED in the attena unit shinning down towards your seats, vs the old fasion LEDs in the pillers. I Would try to hold off on making a semi pricey investment at the moment being new alarms releasing right now. You may see something better you like, or you maybe able to get older models even cheaper. Just make sure you buy from a directed dealer/installer for warranty purposes.

I found this, and then another amp http://www.commerce.com.tw/modules.php?mod...amp;ID=E0153226 http://sandychina1983.en.busytrade.com/selling_leads.html This looks like their site. Chinese fo sho! http://www.weier-elect.com/ opps btrash got it already. was to busy searching for more info. lol

putting the customers first

I never heard of omega... probolly some bottom shelf line garbage that is bought at $20 per unit from a buyout list and sold for 4 times as much.. If this is their site, then ya. garbage. I thought crimeguard went out of bussiness. Lol http://www.caralarm.com/products.html Cant go wrong with Directed products (viper, clifford, python) The xv791s are good, I use that on my car (on my 3rd remote because I drop my keys to much and the internal boards break on the 2 way pager). The new directed alarms are shipping now, all of them are still not out yet, but there is a 5901 that is pretty sleek http://www.viper.com/P-5702V/Viper+5901+Re...te+Start+System There should be some cool 2 way colored lcd remotes comming out very soon now since they started shipping the other newer units.

Let me get this straight... First you fry your amp 7, or 8 times. Make countless posts about how kicker is garbage and F this and F that and swear that everything in your stereo is set correctly (gain, wiring, subsonic, etc). And now you are smelling your sub woofer coils, weather it be extra glue used in building of the sub, or extreme hot temps from clipping your sub with your gains and bassboost all the way up (which you admitted in other posts about your amp). But you say: But in your previous posts you insisted that everything was perfect!!

Also, lets not forget about the old Rockford Fosgate 1501bd's that where 2 ohm stable monoblock amps, that many people have removed the protect circuit to be able to run the amps at 1 ohm. Those amps ran fine at a 1 ohm load, of coarse tho if you fried a sub, or arched the pos and neg speaker terminals together the amp would go up in smoke. Why did the amp go up in smoke? Not because your running it at 1 ohm instead of the manufactures minimum 2 ohm load rating, but because you have removed the protection circuit from the amp which would of turned the amp off to prevent damage.

Not true at all. With your theory, any amp being ran at a lower ohm load to produce more power, which increases current draw, which then increases rated fuse amperage would fry your amp. So with that said, all these people that run their sundown amps or crunch 3000gp's at half ohm daily should have fried amps. Or all those people burping their stetsom amps at .25 ohms would blow them. A amp that does say 3000wrms at 1 ohm is going to be fused at 300 amps (if its a amp that does acutally rms ratings). When you drop that amp down to .5 ohms, your increasing a demand for amperage, the higher amperage equals are higher fuse rating maybe around 350-400 amps. Running a amp at a lower ohm load then its specified will not blow an amp if you taken the proper precautions to prevent it. It may wear out the amps capacitors a bit faster but your amp could still play flawlessly for years and years to come. You just need a up to par electrical system to back up your amp(s). And of coarse dropping a 1000 watt amp down to a lower ohm load is not going to be no where near demanding on your electrical system vs a 3000 watt amp being dropped down. x2

If your power wire is 4 gauge, and your ground is only 8 gauge, your first step is going to be upgrading that ground to 4 gauge for sure!. Also make sure you got a good body mount for a ground and any rust/paint is removed from the grounding point for the best possible ground. You can also do the Big 3 wiring upgrade if you havent done so already. Instructions are here for the big 3 upgrade.

well since your signiture says subs, im guess you have 2 diamonds with dual 4 ohm coils. No matter how you wire it, your coil configuration will not allow you to get full power out of the amp. If you got 2 4ohm dvc subs you can wire them to the amp as. 2 ohm stereo 8 ohm stereo 1 ohm bridged 4 ohm bridged Seeing as we already know that 1 ohm bridged blows fuses due to the extra demanded current needed, that wont work. We know that running the amp at 8 ohms stereo will put out almost no power, so that wont work. Your decisions are now left to: 4 ohm mono/bridged or 2 ohm stereo. Most likely since its going to produce the same power at 2 ohm stereo, or 4 ohm mono/bridged. So its your call really. You can try both ways and see if one is louder then the other, but most likely it wont be. You could also try to find another amp otherwise, and run 1 amp per sub at 2 ohms mono/bridged, and then you will be getting max power. Like i said, try picking up some 40 amp fuses, and try 2 30amps and 1 40 amp, and pound the hell out of the amp. If the fuses blow, step up to 1 30amp and 2 40 amps and pound the amp and see if the fuses blow or not. If the amp will play for a long period of time at close to or at full tilt you should be fine, as long as its not popping fuses, or kicking thermal protect for a few minutes due to it being too hot. If it kicks thermal protect you will have to go and wire the amp at a less load (2 ohms stereo, 4 ohm mono)

His problem is that he is pushing his amp too hard. You said you have it bridged at 1 ohm. Its a 2 channel amp, its only stable down to 1 ohm STEREO. Its rated for 500wrms by 2 @ 1 ohm stereo. When you bridge 2 channels of a amp together at 1 ohm like your saying you done, you are pushing each Channel at .5 ohms bridged. Where the amp is only 1 ohm stable stereo, 2 ohm stable bridged. Your fuses keep blowing because you are drawing too much current thru the fuses to have the amp produce power at 1 ohm bridged (.5 ohms per channel). Your fuses are popping which is preventing your amp to heat up due to the extra current, and blow your amp. You could try putting in two 30 amp fuses and one 40 amp fuse and see if the fuses still blow. You will be at 100 amps of fusing. If it blows, Try two 40 amp fuses, and one 30 amp fuse. If it blows, Try three 40 amp fuses, 120 amps total of fusing, 30 amps more then manufactures specs. Running the amp at a lower impedance, even if its still a stable impedance/ohm load is going to cause more amperage to be sucked from your electrical system, resulting in blowing fuses. Id however not reccomend upgrading the fuses unless you monitor your amp temps freq for a while. But lets just say that you better prey for that thermal protection to kick on to protect the amp from over heating, because most likely the fuses arent gonna blow. But yea. Your amp is only 2 ohm stable bridged (mono), 1 ohm stable stereo per channel. Running your amp at 1 ohm bridged (mono), is running each channel at .5 ohms, and is what is blowing the fuses.

nice amp shades Otherwise, these alpines are decent too. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6534_A...e+MRP-F450.html Its 199.99$, 70 by 4 @ 4 ohms, 100 by 4 @ 2 ohms. Free shipping. Ive probolly installed at least 30+ of these 4 channel amps, and they all sounded good. Id say go for a alpine pdx otherwise, but thats way out of your budget.

meh, not a fan of JL at all really, but out of them choices, I think your gonna want the JL.

those specs are old, so old that those amps are not even being made no more. The specs look like the first gen dd Z1 and Z2. Then the Z1a came out, and replaced the z2 and z1. Now there is a Z2 lv and hv (low volt, high volt). these amps take over the older Z1a's Charger on this site is running 2 DD Z2 LV's in his ride. Specs on these amps from DDs site.

Yea, DD's for now. Thanks for the replys sundownz and nightshade. I was thinking it had something to do with stiffness, but wasnt exactly sure. Never knew much about spiders besides what they do, never really knew they came in different stiffnesses.

I think he does since he said he does

I liked that too, and when you see the hoe come to a slow creep right when it looks like steve says something, you see the persons arm go up in the air, point to the exit like they where saying gtfo now! You can barly see the arm go up thru the hoes window, but I watched it a few times, and looked like that person was wanting him to keep going, and not stop. Lol

very nice results. Question. Whats with the 3 spiders? I think I read some fi's have 4 and such. I tore apart one of my subs before recone and I counted 8 (now up to 10 on my new recones). So whats up with the spiders that your using, and so few of. It maybe under lock and key, but Im just curious.

Most the time a regular moderator does not have access to do so. However Administrators/admins have the ability too. Does it mean that they are, no. It could be something simple such as a site crash, and the site being restored to the last autosaved point.

Lol I could of swore newegg said it just had only 2. I even went back and looked at it, and it does say 4.. Maybe Im just really tired. been up all night. Lol Yea, the corsair 750 would be a great choice then, no need for the higher priced corsair. Get the corsair VX750W and save your self $50 once you do the mail in rebate, and it will for sure outperform the xion thingy. I seen the corsairs at a computer shop, and their cheapest one was $200, I never really looked into online prices with them before, but thats retail pricing for ya. Lol