audiofanaticz

Ive also heard the 500.1s are more effiecnent then the 400.1s a few times on termpro. It was xafire69 with a gold 150.1. I have another friend that use to run 2 of the older gold 150.1s. The gold 150.1s, are equal to a spl dynamics ext-2000d, they should do 2000+rms at 1 ohm, 13.8 volts. I also have 2 spl dynamics ext-3000ds that are 3krms @ 1 ohm 13.8 volts, they will play full tilt for around 5 minutes at a .2 ohm load, then thermal protect for a few minutes. I have 2 newer 150.1s at .7 ohms, will be 1.4 ohm strapped with maxxlink when i reinstall everything. Tho they do not like having the rca cords unplugged, they get very hot!

Lol just sent him a message asking. Ill have to wait and see what he comes up with.

click black box on top of the picture to enlarge the image. Yea Im really thinking this might be the same guy with my wire not sure tho.. Maybe my wire, my old friends subs and amps? Im not sure. No one runs Hifonics or massive in my area.

Some of you may know my garage got broken into about a month back. About 200 feet of knukonceptz wires got took, and 2 fried kicker l7 12s in a prefab. I thought a old friend may have done it because he wanted the wire and subs but had no cash. Then my car got broke into a few days laters, nothing went missing. The guy I thought went into my garage had his truck hit the same night he claimed, (no idea to any truth behind it tho). Today I get a friend request on myspace.... Names are blurred out for right now. But after accepting the request, I get this message.... This is what he had for a stereo in his truck...... I have no current number for him and am trying to get a hold of him but no go. What do I do?!?

you better buy new subs, or keep that gain very low.

my apologize yto you david. Dont wanna get banned Tho dont think I would, but this guy crossed the line IMO. And I think you can relate with that. :01nocomment8so: lol I may act like a know it all, but everything I post on or help users on Im usally right (or at least no one proves me wrong), if they do congrats, and I learned something new.

I still find this funny... :01nocomment8so: Edit: :01nocomment8so:

Thank you reinke and krannyman

How the fuck am I too know if you gain knob is all the way up or down, or around and up in your ass like some fat chicks ass plug... How am I a prick? I stated the facts, if you cant handle that maybe you should go back to mommy and suck on her titties some more like a new born would do so.. You said if you have your amp all the way up no matter what your shit will start clipping?? Most of us will interperate that as your a fucking noob that has some pos sony amp and thinks he is louder then steve meade. Sit the fuck down ass clown!

If you know what clipping is, you wouldnt have your amp all the way up.. Your "gain" knob is not a "volume" know and that is why it says "gain", not "volume". Your "gain" know is to be set with the voltage of your pre amp outputs from your headunit to give the amp the correct input signal voltage. Your amp that you are running all the way up over time will A) blow your amp, blow your sub(s), C) blow both.

Easy way to tell if your alarm will go off from lifting your door handles before putting the alarm on is. Go out to your car, have your doors locked. Pull up on the handle (with the door locked so it dont open). If your dome light comes on with the door still closed, the alarm will go off. Alarms have dome light supervision, which montiors the dome lights going on and then triggers the alarm, if your lucky to have a car that the light goes on by lifting the handle your alarm will go off, otherwise the theifs would get into your car by the time the light supervision activates, or the door pin is fully depressed.

It looks just like a hologram or ribbed plastic that catches the light, from the reflection the plastic illuminates? Not worth $20 imo tho.

that looks purdy.. and I thought my 22 inch samsung was big enough.... esh!!

wow..... :01nocomment8so: Why didnt I think of this kinda shit when i was a kid lol

its all good bro, I just didnt want him to go and build, and have the wrong measurments and have the box sound like ass. thats never a good thing

Either have I in my own ride, but I have messed around with a couple btls, and some ssds and heard a few bl's last year. Specs are on the site. Edit: the site is www.ficaraudio.com for future reference

Your math is wrong because your dimensions are for the external volume, not the internal volume. The 2 different volumes will make or break your box. If you use external volume while calculating port tuning your box will be so far off on the freq you tuned for. Theres really no difference in round ports vs a slot/vent port. Both ports can have port noise or turbulance if they are built wrong (ie too much or too little port volume). You can gain db's by using areo ports if you use them correctly, but its really up to you since you gotta listen to it.

Thats funny I get 12.039 internally cubed if your using 3/4 inch wood without any port or sub displacement. You must subtract 1.5 inches from every dimension if your using 3/4 inch thick wood. Subtract 2 inches from every dimension if your using 1 inch thick wood. The Fi btl 15s recomend 3-5 cubic feet per sub in a ported box. With .21 cubed of displacement. so 3 x .21 = 0.63 cubic feet for sub displacement. 12.039 - 0.63 = 11.049 cubic feet iternally with sub displacement. No idea how big of a port your going to run, so I cant subtract that out of the box. But you have over 2 cubic feet for port displacement, and you will still be able to give each sub the lowest recomended space per sub which is 3 cubed. So yes, you can do 3 Fi BTL's ported.

The lite-ons seem to be good and reliable. Ive installed 3 so far, 1 in my moms, and the other 2 in my friends pc's. Only they had the lightscrib. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16827106265 Me, Im still running just some plain old a-open 52-32-52 burner that suck for burning mp3 discs, the mp3 cds skip in some headunits, so far I noticed jvc, pioneer, and kenwood. But alpine plays them fine. Still wanting the above lite-on but havent bought yet.

heres the one he made for meade if you havent found the thread yet bro. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...c=29930&hl=

he has made a few different ones for the cool people. I know he made a smd one in another post. these things are still very cool looking.

that looks like its beating pretty good noob!! Almost seems louder then the mx? What do you mean you lost your lows in the one post? seems like its way louder

any updates dubie?

darn, must of missed it somehow. I was just surfing youtube and came a crossed it and thought wow, lots of time and money. then I seen the metering and at first i was like wtf?? then noticed the mic way off to the side. I have some spl dynamics amps, and know what they are capable off and totally was confused at first with the 130dbs. thanx for the link to pics!

To the best of my knowledge you could have up to 5000 amps of current from your alternators going to a cheap battery, and it wont harm it. Your alternator is only going to produce the power it needs and the voltage the regulater is excited at. If your car has no system like Beckett says, and just normal vehicle operating current draws 150 and less amps, your alternator(s) will not put out more then the 150 amps needed to keep your battery charged or your electrical components running correctly. So even tho you have 5000 amps of current on tap, your alternators will not work to produce that 5000 amps if your not needing it. So saying that your battery terminals will melt or burn is false, because there is no draw on the electrical system to draw that much current. Beckett you are correct that your alternator(s) will only work as much as they need to, too keep your battery charged. Now maybe if you had a stereo that was 40,000+ rms and you where giving your alternator(s) a reason to work that hard you could risk having your battery terminals melt, but before your solid metal battery terminals would melt or burn, your power wire would fail being that it is made of a weaker material with a much lower melting point. And if you where that guy to have that kind of wattage in your ride, you would have more then 1 battery, and many runs of power wire distributing the the huge current flow through out your vehicle so that you had an acceptable amp load per power wire for the maximum efficientcy or your electrical and stereo system. The reason why wires melt and or burn is because you are drawing too much current from the wire. With the proper amount of power wiring, your battery terminal will never melt or burn, and if anything your power wire would be the weakest point.