audiofanaticz

yea, its not good, that means more then likely that one amp is set differently then the other amp. maxlink ftw!

id set your amps with a scope for the most precise tuning. Or buy a maxlink to strap your amps together. Its normally not a big deal, but using two seperate amps on 2 seprate subs sharing the same airspace is not good unless everything is matched.

Sounds like a bad driver board. I read something on the soundpressure forums about a guy having the same problem I think.

Me and roscoe are both running the mtec hid kits.. They are about $250 bucks. 10,000k hids are illegal in many states! The higher the K they are the less light output they have. IE a 6000k set is brighter then the 10000k bulbs, and so on. This is the kit I am currently running. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=190160813749 EDIT: You will want to spend AT LEAST $200+ for a semi decent kit.

Cheap flowmasters from advanced autoparts ftw! I got two 40 series on my caddy. Has a 4.6L 32valve northstar v8 in it, stock single 2 1/4 inch exhaust (fake dual exhaust, has a y pipe by the rear wheels). Im still running a cat, gonna add a hiflow cat when the weather is nicer. Pics, and vids.

bump

If the amp is clipping it will produce more heat faster and will result in less wattage and distortion. So using a dmm will be your best way. If your mids and tweets still dont keep up, get a bigger amp. I got some bestbuy (insigma) tweeters in my doors, they where cheap and loud/harsh and do the job well for right now, but when I turn my deck up too high, or if a song is recorded higher, my tweets will shut off. You can always add a 4,8, or 16 ohm resister to your positive wire on your tweeters so they play at a higher ohm, which will result in less power being put to them and maybe they wont shut off. I know my insigmas are 100wrms and 200 watts peak... They say that in high wattage installations you should use a 16 ohm resistor with them (not included), I talked to the installers at bestbuy to buy 2 resistors and was told that YOU CAN NOT DO THAT AND IT WILL NOT WORK AND IM A DUMB F**K to say the least. I snapped on them and called them out and left... BESTBUY FTMFW! But I guess it was my fault for buying cheap gear, but it is only for a temp situtation till i get my morels..

I was gonna say the same thing.. At least seal from behind the box/wall into the trunk. Your tail lights and rear quarterpanels shouldnt be barley vibrating at all. You will notice a signifagant gain in db's and your windshield will move even more Other then that, it looks like it is beating great! American bass ftmfw!

It may help grounding your rca's to your deck, but Im highly doubtful that will solve the problem. The grounding of the Rca's is a fix for the pioneers. I see you have a alpine headunit. I know on some of the alpine units, they start to clip the rca outputs at around volume 27-29. One thing id try would be to raise your amp gains up a tad, and then play your radio at a lower volume. Resulting in the same output but just at a lower volume on your headunit. Then you will know for sure if it was your signal being clipped before if it dont do it with a higher gain setting to compensate the lower volume setting on the headunit. If you follow me. I never turn my alpine up beyond 26 most the time, and it goes to 35.

Bump Bump Bump. Help support SMD guys!!

It could lead to a number of things... It could be that you are clipping your rca outputs on your deck, and the gain/bass boost/freq on one amp is slightly different then the other amp. I also know that my settings on my amp tend to wonder around a bit when I really am beating, I gotta go back in the trunk every now and then and re set the amp. Id take a DMM and check your voltages on each amp and see if one amp is getting a little more juice then the other, Id also check all your wires and rca's for anything loose.

Yea, its a jumper to restore default cmos settings. Its usally in the lower right hand corner of the mobo, near the battery. You can also take out that battery, unplug the computer, and then hit the power button. Unplugging it, and taking out the battery, and trying to turn it on will drain any extra juice that maybe left in the capaciters and what not. usally this will do the same as clearing cmos.

Thanks for that... I was trying to think of the site and I jsut couldnt do it. LoL They have nice prices there. I use to get the 1 inch thick book full of their products, but dont no more, but that is where I got my light from. But they wouldnt sell me red or blue lenses for it because I had no proof of being a emergancy vehicle, but yet they sold me a retractable billy club And yes, federal signal is also another nice company that has good reliable products that are pretty much on the up and up witth whelen.

That looks bad ass kingsuv. I also gotta say go with whelen, their products are on par with their competitors. These are most likely the same strobe kit that many emergency vehicles. The cheap kits you see at your auto parts store wont even compair to whelen, nor would street glow for that matter. I have a revolving dash light made by whelen and its super bright and has multiable speeds.

Most computers use the "delete" key to enter bios. Id enter bios, and restore all default settings.

i had the hugest rubbermade container packed full of legos because 3 huge hard plastic samsinite suitcases where to much to move around. All I always wanted for christmas and birthdays was legos, I bet I played with them things til i was 11 or 12 when bored. Kinda wish I still had them, Id probolly mess with them when drunk. I sold them all for 50 bucks to some old lady I use to work with bought them for her grandson. But damn, I had 3 of the biggest boat shells (tankers), 2 medium boat shells, and then 4 little boat shells, and at least 20+boards incluidint roads and everything else. Id imagine that if I kept all the sets built It be a pretty big display.

I have a audiocontrol overdrive linedriver for sale Make an offer on it (plus shipping, my zip code is 53083) and I ship via UPS ground. It worked fine the last time it was used, I also hooked it up to 2 different capacitors and it powers up. I think they sell for around $75-100 new and msrp is $119. but dont quote me on that. Make me a decent offer and its yours! I have a selling price in my head that Id like to get for it (not including shipping). All funds (not including shipping) will be donated to SMD for site usage. PAYPAL payments only! Here are some pics. There is only 1 noticeable blemish on the case on the left side above the audiocontrol name (you can see in the picture). If you need more proof that it is mine I can write down my username on some paper, or whatever.

I spy lots of coors light! Looks like id have a fun time with a visit there! coors light and patron ftw

Yea, those lights can be dangerous, and then some!! I use to have a large halogen for outdoor use on your house/garage and for some reason I brought it into my bedroom when I still lived at home (i think I was using it to grow a plant of some sort) and I thought I turned it off, but I didnt and set it down on my carpet (with the glass on the carpet) and I smelled something burning. Needless to say I ended up with a brown spot that was about 10 inches by 14 inches, it melted my carpet right down to the plastic weave and burned a little bit of the carpet padding.

Never said nothing about running amps below their rated ohm loads.. I agree with you on that (but their are amps that can handle daily abuse under their rated ohm load, but thats another story). And thats why I stated for him to find a amp that is 1 ohm stable, but makes a decent power at 2 ohms.

but.... As said before, box/impedance rise is killer, along with wire resistance and the size of wire you are running (bigger gauge = less resistance). Are you getting your 1.34 ohms at the end of your speaker wire? Or Are you getting your 1.34 ohms at the coil? Theres a big difference in the two, and the read at the coil will be significly lower. You will want a 1 ohm stable amp for sure, but look for a amp that will produce high numbers at 2 ohms. So if your subs are 1000 watts rms each and you got 2 subs, look for an amp that is 1 ohm stable. (ie: 3000wrms by 1 @ 1 ohm, 2000wrms by 1 @ 2 ohm, 1000wrms by 1 @ 4 ohm). Then you will know that you are getting at least 2000 plus watts rms out of your amp. I say 2000 plus because you are not running exactly at 2 ohm (you are under, which will create more power).

ditto My home receiver had 4 towers running off it (eight 15s) using channels A and B and you could easily hear the tweets starving for power. The stereo was actully louder/cleaner with only 2 speakers running at a time til I got a older receiver too power the other two. Then sold to a friend when I was unemployed four 15s ftl now..

140-145?

So true Box is looking great.!