audiofanaticz

you hav a 75+% chance of frying it.

I like my Coors light, but ever since I installed a stereo on my buddies boat and been going out on the lake with him the heineken draught kegs have been my friend!

are you talking about this one? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2728_M...io+HK2000D.html If so it only makes 1800 at 17 volt. I dont think Id even trust burping that amp at .5 ohms.

you got a 91 eldorado and you cant fit a 15??? wow... maybe you should rebuild your box or something. you can easily fit a 18 in there. Good luck with the new sub that they are working on for you

I went to see it last friday. Wasnt all that bad. Id say it was so-so, but almost not worth the money, they could of made it a lot better, but there was a lot of good parts about it too. like bart streaking on the skateboard, or the TO BE CONTINUED not even half way through the movie. Id deff watch it again, but not in the theaters.

I said lay down, and unbutton your bra. They was the biggest titties that a nigga ever saw I said damn. Then the air got thinner only thought in my mind was going up in her. The suspense was making me sick! She took her panties down and...??? Rofl rip eazy

Price range? I dont think you will find any .5 ohm amps straight from the factory, lowest will be 1 ohm stable so your pretty much looking for competition amps. American bass 150.1 Your looking at a little over 1500 watts rms at 1 ohm 14.4 volts Amp should be fine for daily driving at .5 ohms, but it will burp at .35 ohms for sure. But the current draw on it will be well over 200 amps Id think at .5 ohms, so hopefully you got a nice rear battery or two, some nice wiring, and possibly a high output alt. You will fry the power mosfets easily if you dont have the electrical to back the amp. Same with any amp when running in .5 ohms. Or you could be cheap and find your self 2 crap amps and run 1 amp per coil at 1 ohm, and make sure you got a oscope to set the amps identical. Or you could even find a amp that will give you 1500watts rms at 2 ohm too, but you may end up paying more for it.

Looking great like always Steve! Cant wait to see some more updates. Do you plan on doing anything special with the moon roof? Reason I ask this is because I messed mine up very quickly. It all works fine yet I guess but when you close it, it sucks down tight like it should but then loosens back up shortly after where you can push up on the glass and feel the glass move up and down about 1/8 of a inch maybe a tad more. No rain leaks in though.

oh wow I LOLLED!

when you install vista, you are using dx10. I have a buddy with a nice pc too that has a 8800 video card and it aint all that great.

lol make me a offer! you pay shipping. The thing is a beast. Id say close to 50 pounds! I need to get my sub reconed!

It ran fine on my machine I just dont get what the deal is with games, its not game friendly at all it seems. There is no reason that I only got 30-50 fps. My pc aint really too slow. amd 3700+ sandy 2.2 oced too 2.97, 2 gigs corsair xms pro ram, and a 7900gt video card oced. I tried at least every beta driver for video, and many normal video drivers and had no sucsess.

Vista blows, had it installed for about 3 days, then formated and went back to xp. I lost over 150+ FPS in counterstrike source with vista.

yea, window tinting varies by state in US. I know in Wisconsin the law is no darker then 50% tint allowed on the front driver and passenger side windows, no darker then 35% on the rear driver and passenger side windows, and no darker the 35% on the rear window. Now in Illinois a neighboring state to WI the law changes too no tint on the front window, and as dark as you want on your rear driver and passenger side and rear window. Now in Minnesota another neighboring state to WI the law reads this. No darker then 50% on the windows all away around, and must not be no more then 20% reflective. For the uk I dont know. You can read this here http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=13578 the post said uk tint law, but i didnt read it., and the poster dapaatints also said this which i didnt make much sense of on another forum DapaaTints Aug 20 2003, 05:44 AM UK law currently states that the driver and front passenger windows must only be treated with a light tint. The back windows can be treated with any shade. The front windscreen must be free of any shading, apart from a 6" strip across the top. Note: Driver, front passenger and windscreen must comply with new visible light transmission regulations. Driver and front passenger minimum 70% V.L.T and windscreen min 75% V.L.T. Hope this helps WWW.DAPAATINTS.CO.UK Maybe you could email him or something and find out for sure. PS: In the USA you do not need a outside driverside mirror, only the rearview and passenger outside mirror.. LoL Edit: Ok I think I understand what he is saying No darker then 70% on the front driver and passenger side windows. Dark as you want on the rear driver and passenger side windows and rear window, and only 6 inches down from the top of your front windshield going accross (where that blue factory tint is). Most states will allow you to tint about a inch below the stock tint on top of your window, but if the cop wants to be a dick you will get fined..

Im not sure about the UK, but in the Wisconsin Im pretty sure it is illegal to block your rear view mirror UNLESS your vehicle is registered as a truck and have truck license plates and have both side mirrors. Same thing also goes for suvs and vans, that you are only allowed to remove 1 row of the rear seating unless you have truck plates, and cargo vans must be registered as trucks because there are no rear seats. I also know you can be fined for having no rearview mirror in your car with 2 working side mirrrors (got that ticket already). Im sure there is some law where your from, or if you call the department of motor vehicles if they have those in the uk, i got no idea. Its a pretty stupid law to enforce and Im sure its not enforced to much either.

wow.... Im speechless @ that 400 buy it now and 55 buck shipping, new is 469 and free shipping... good luck bro.

roflmao wow... if id seen that id be pulling over too... I dont think that video will be hosted too long on myspace lol

dizzle, open up your browser and google "29980.2562", your not the only one with that. People seem to be having the same problem with the pirated and bought game. On one of the forums I read a person said he downloaded a patch and it was fine. Remember Google is your friend

I love my viper 791xv. I just put on a glass sensor the other day, and today I bought a level sensor, but havent put it on yet. Im also looking at getting the dual zone motion sensor friday maybe. My alarm is already real sensitive but I want more!!!!! Either way, get a DEI alarm, you wont beat them...

i think this is the full build log here.. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/forums/in...hp?topic=2845.0

good luck too you..... Im 99.9% sure you wont have a car amp to power both subs for 1. For 2, if you do have a huge amp, Im sure your not going to have a 12 volt electrical system to supply this amp enough amperage to power the subs even a little bit close to their rms. So now you step up into a whole new game. Which means you'll be needing amps that are used in such places like roller rinks, clubs, dj's. So for an example for cheap power this amp http://www.pssl.com/bitemdetail.tpl~waGrou...~%5BcatGroup%5D Behringer ep2500 And its rated at: 750 watts at 4 ohms (per channel) 500 watts at 8 ohms (per channel) 1200 watts at 2 ohms (per channel) 2400 watts bridged mono at 4 ohms So if you got that amp, and got dual 2 ohm 18" btls you could run that amp 4 ohm mono and get a little more then the speakers rms wattage out of the amp. So you will need 2 of those amps to get the subs sounding decent. And them are just cheap amps btw, no where close to anything even considered low end..... So your looking at $820.00 for subs, and at least $700.00 for amps. so $1520.00 for subs and amps... Now dont forget that those amps, nor do any other pro audio amps use rca cords like car audio or home audio, so you got to buy cords and adapters to hook it all up. You might as go ahead and buy a rack mount eq otherwise you are not going to be able to tune the amp. So for a cheap eq we will go with behringer again, and add another $80.00 to your total. http://www.pssl.com/bitemdetail.tpl~waGrou...~%5BcatGroup%5D And when you say you are planning on putting this into your friends room, Im assuming you guys are young and still live with the rents, and most likely have no cash... And the mad scientist mr meade already did this with 4 18" fi bl's so check out his build log and videos here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showtopic=4066

bots hack so bad. rofl

Its funny... It seems like everyone that says that applies to one of these below. A) Their computers cant run cs source. They like looking at gimp graphics and no color. C) They dont like the fact that you cant shoot through every wall. D) They are afraid of change.

only way to know if your OC is stable is to download memtest86 I think it is, and let your pc sit and test for at least 16 hours straight. If you crash or get an error your not OC stable. Other wise microsoft antispy, avg by grisoft, spybot are good FREE programs to make sure you are virus and spyware free. Also dust is a major factor if your running air cooling, and even stock air cooling. Invest in a zalman cpu cooler for sure!

Dont know what ram lantusx picked out, but xms is decent ram. I have 2 gigs of xms pro and works fine.. BUT.............. Why 4 sticks? That is not only a waste of money, but also a waste of performance.. You will never get 4 sticks of ram to run as tight as timings as 2 sticks resulting in lower performance. So get just one memory kit that has two 1 gig sticks of ram resulting in 2 gigs total. two memory kits with 4 sticks of 512mb ram will be no where near as fast. Ditto on the LianLi cases, they are beasts and are designed for cooling. I read someplace on a test about them that they used 2 idenical comuters and the average case temp of the lianli case was 8 degrees cooler. None of the links want to work for me so I cant really tell what was all picked out. But for a motherboard, get either EVGA, ASUS, or DFI. Those motherboards are the most reliable and will give you the most obtions for overclocking if you ever deciede to do so. Video cards- EVGA all the way, no other company can compair to a EVGA card, Almost every EVGA card has a higher core clock and memory clock speed then other company like bfg, xfx, pny. Not to mention EVGA's warrenty, which is if you fry it, its covered with the warrenty, if you overclock it to far and fry it, its still covered, if you buy it used from a friend of a friend of a friend and your the 4th owner of that card and something goes wrong its covered in the warenty. And then you have the EVGA step up program. Which I believe is if you buy a card, and lets say 3 months down the road a newer card comes out and you want that one, you can send your card into evga and pretty much trade it in towards the new video card. So say you go out and buy the 8800 gtx or whatever, drop 600+ bucks on it, and a month goes by and the 9000gtx comes out, all you got to do is contact evga and tell them you want the new card and you got this 8800 and they will give you money for your card. Ram - Corsair all the way, it dont matter if its the value select or the xms or xms pro. Corsair tests every stick of ram that goes out the door (like rockford fosgate does with their amps). You will not get DOA ram, and you will know your ram sticks are matched for ultimate performance. Powersupply - a power supply is a power supply for the most part, but if you are running good pc parts you need to have a psu to back it up. You will want to get at least a psu with dual 12 volt rails (just incase you ever plan on running sli '2 video cards' you will need a dual 12 volt rail psu) and you want to make sure that on each 12 volt rail you are getting at least 16+ amps. You should be able to find a decent one for around 75 bucks.