audiofanaticz

Ruff cut on the wood for a mid/tweeter enclosure A little build up for over the transmission hump in the floor Now Im just test fitting the front back and side panels to get an idea in my head for an angled top Looked to be a decent angle for the top Now to find out what degree that angle is for the side cuts and the front and back piece Now to take that found angle to the table saw Perfect Both front and back panels cut, now for the sides

Yes same window, but no the doors are not coming off for the neos. Im not going to fiberglass my doors one speaker when I will be most likely using different ones when I decide. Hah me too! But with the weather Im not doing anything major or permanent at this point until next spring Will upload some pics in a few what I was building last night. Need to then get back out and finish it, didnt feel like using the router last night and getting covered in sawdust.

He seems pretty busy, he said it needs to be sent in and that the overlay (button pad) is malfunction it sounds like.

Will look into it farther when I get home. Its showing its still waiting for you to confirm on the sites end, it may have glitched again. If you check your PMs, you know why your other account was disabled for 24hours for continuously violating for sale rules after you have been warned.

Email is usually your best form of contact especially for a possible warranty issue. I did message him on facebook and gave him a link to this thread so Im sure he will pop in here when ever he sees the message.

Your invoice for the ad was never paid. The premium ads are all automatically done. You must not of pushed the confirm button to authorize the payment.

So I got some bnib loaner gear that has been sitting at my house now for maybe a year and a half for a friends car, but I just cant justify cutting up expensive door panels so its been on hold until some show up at a junk yard. In the mean time I have zero front stage. Unless you count the selenium 6 and the advent out door speaker which is blown but has a working tweeter, both being powered off the headunit with a scrap piece of wire running out the dash. Yes, very ghetto! So I figure I might as well build a temp rear fill that will run along the bottom of the wall behind the front seats. It cant be any worse than what I had, and will most likely sound way better than the old front stage due to the rf 3SIXTY.2 I got 6 of these neopros sitting here, but 4 should do alright.

Thanks! Nothing too special though just time and being patient and very anal with my cuts. Any one can do it

Was going to put some decent temp mids in the truck today, but as I was on my way home I had another problem, one I just had a few weeks ago....

Thats all broke audio addict has been doing.. My ban hammer has been itching. Just saying

they are b stock subs not a good choice to go with them Please dont go around spewing false info on an item you obviously don't know about. It says right in the warranty (on the site) "Our warranty covers only manufacturer defects on things not related to cosmetics". So these are all working products being sold. They are also listed on Sundowns website as an internet dealer. There should be no worries of the site trying to rip people off with defective product as it is clearly stated in multiple spots. Sometimes a small cosmetic blemish that probably will never be seen when its inside a enclosure will not bother a person and its highly worth it to that individual. If I could save myself upwards of $60+ on a woofer for something like a scratch on the magnet, chipped paint on a basket, or a badly printed logo on the dust cap Id definitely be that guy and those savings could really add up if your buying multiples.. Further more I dont see why your posting a topic about the site like you had a question, only to say that you shouldn't buy from them. Rather pointless and thread is locked.

Yes, extra preout voltage will cause the amp to clip if you are not able to turn the gain down to the matching voltage you are feeding it. So if your sending the amp 8volts, and the lowest the gain can go is 6volts, you are giving it 2 more volts than you should be, which in return is just the same as running your amp with the gain too high. Also those numbers printed on the side of the amp are never 100% dead on, it could say 6volts when all the way down, but it could actually be 5.5volts or 6.5 volts, etc. If you have a digital multimeter, unplug the RCA cables from the amp and play the same DD-1 track you used to tune your amp, than measure the voltage from your rca cords. The center pin of the rca is +positive and the outer ring is -negative.

Try turning your headunit down a few clicks to see if the distortion on the amplifier goes away. More than likely without knowing the model numbers of the EQ or Line Driver, you are maxing out the preout voltage beyond your amplifiers needs. Im sure your headunit puts out about 2volts if its a clarion (just a guess), which is than most likely being boosted up to 4volts from the EQ, which is feeding into the Line driver that is capable of boosting that signal up to 6 to 9+ volts output (depending on its model and if it has an adjustable voltage output). Now the issue is coming from you having all that preout voltage, and the lowest setting on the amp is about 6volts when the gain is all the way down. So in order to tune the amp properly you would have to turn the gain to about -3 volts on the amp which you cant do. Your next option is to turn down the line driver voltage if its adjustable, if its not adjustable you will either have to turn down the subwoofer preout volume on the radio if it has one, or remove the line driver all together.

lulz

So whats going on? The email you provide LTSmoke with is tied to another account on the forums that has 0 posts and was a gold member as of a week ago. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/37788-mgamforever/ The account you are posting in this thread with is created using a different email address. Are these both you?

Slight chance I could be wrong. It seems like the M3 line became a thing once they had their new baskets tooled. I remember them showing pics of the new baskets, but if there was a change in motors too one would think they would have made a thread and posted pics showing those off as well.

Im pretty sure the difference is just their new basket and larger spiders to accommodate the new basket which makes them the m3 line, motors are all the same through out the series.

Done.

Feb 7th, 2010 is when my friend put in the new one.

I got the transmission about 5 years ago with under 15,000 miles on it. The recipet from the dealership that installed it in the junked vehicle was still in the glove box. Its a gm goodwrench (not rebuilt) out of a burban that got smacked pretty hard. I forget the reason, but we had to use mine out of the old transmission, i want to say it had a crack or something but cant remember 100%.

So I got stranded at my buddies junk yard because my flex plate has been shot for years, and whenever it stops in the spot with no teeth I grabbed the 5/8 socket and ratchet and cranked over the motor a little bit by hand to get it to a good spot on the fly wheel so the starter can spin the engine over. Now the bolt Ive been turning for the past few years is starting to round off on the head (since august 2nd of 2011 when i noticed the problem). So I ended up getting quotes on replacing that whole ordeal and had to tow my truck since I couldnt get it to start again. That cost $500, plus they said the starter was shot. Luckily I still had the receipt from the last starter and got a new free duracrap starter for them to put on since it had a limited lifetime warranty. Finally got around to putting in the Rockford Fosgate 3SIXTY.2 that Mr. Meade sent me to play with. Then this white shit decided to fall.... Picked up a couple new parts from my buddies junkyard today as well from stuff that is already breaking Just a little bit of testing that I have done thus far. Which none of can be anything official to go off of since it was all done in cold weather, the woofers didnt have much play time and super stiff, the wall is not sealed off, and there are no trim panels, as well the front port is not final and just playing with different sizes. So for all I know the score could go down in summer, or up once everything is said and done. Its over a 150db so Im happy, numbers dont mean to much to me since I dont compete anymore, and probably wont unless I drive outta state to a larger show or something. sealed on the dash (db drag rules). Outlaw (usaci rules, mic in kick panel driver door open).

But make sure you push Ctrl C first to copy the image link..

Just want to make sure you have a good battery in the device like a Duracell, Rayovac, or Energizer, something decent and that it has decent amount of juice left in it right? I dont know how many times this has happened and you ask the person and they say its a brand new Duracell in the device. Then when they return the item because it does not work and Steve or Tony get the item back as a return or repair they check the battery first and its usually some dead battery reading 4 volts or some no name generic battery. They simply put a new quality battery in it and the device works just fine. I myself replace my batteries in my DD-1, DD-1+, IM-SG, and CC-1 as well as my 2 clamp meters and my multimeter twice a year even if there is still life left in the batteries. Just making sure this isnt the case here.

Try swapping your master and slave around. I know when I just gain matched both my 4500s a couple days ago I used the DD-1+ to set BOTH amps, then I came back with the CC-1 and checked each amp. 1 of my amps makes about 5 more volts of power when set witth my dd-1+, So if i use the cc-1 to match off my louder amp, it instantly pushes my slave into clipping.