audiofanaticz

Installing a smaller fuse wont do anything if its not tight.... The same thing will happen. If you think its the fuse that caused this, then why did the fuse block melt before the fuse even seen the current, not after the fuse, or the fuse itself???? Thus alone proves its not the fuse, or the gauge of the wire. If the wire is too small the wire would be melted (even if he had an 80 amp fuse in there) most people dont understand how much current you can suck thru an 80 amp fuse, and yea its a lot more then 200+ amps before that 80 amp fuse will blow, and usually by that time the wire will be so hot the casing is like a soft wire just waiting to find a ground source to create some welding action and possibly a fire.

^^^^this. melted fuse holders come from a bad connection, usually a fuse, or the wire into the fuse holder is not completly tight. When the connection is being moved around having less contact more current is trying to flow thru smaller amounts of material creating heat.

subbed and friended

sorry bro, I bourght my camera out once, for your demo, and almost forgot to do that. I was tired and not thinking much of anything really whats with the urban tanks thing anyways???

i dunno, that waxing of the car sounds like a good idea! just saying!

looks good bro! you guys took off to wcgi hood show too? I was going to, but i got a text saying the lot was full like as soon as they opened it up so said fuck it.

wait, cake??????? you know a fat kid likes meh some cake!

seemed like a fast 5 years!

^^^^^^ LOL I'm going to run your utility bills up so ****ing high that you can't pay them. You're going to start stressing the **** out, your blood pressure will triple, and you'll have a ****ing heart attack. You'll go to the hospital for heart operation, and the last thing you'll see when you're being put under in the operating room is me hovering above you, dressed up like a doctor. When you wake up after the operation, you'll be scared for your ****ing life, wondering what I did to you while you were being operated on, wondering what ticking time bomb is in your chest waiting to go off. You'll recover fully from your heart surgery. And when you walk out the front door of that hospital to go home, I'll run you over with my ****ing car out of nowhere and kill you.I just want you to know how easily I could ****ing destroy your pathetic excuse of a life, but how I'd rather go to a great ****ing length to make sure your last remaining days are spent in a living, breathing ****ing hell. It's too ****ing late to save yourself, but don't bother committing suicide either...I'll ****ing resuscitate you and kill you again myself..mmkay? I'll put you in so much ****ing pain that it'll make jesus being nailed to a cross in the desert look like a ****ing back massage on a tropical island.I don't give a **** how tough you are, how well you can fight, or how many ****ing guns you own to protect yourself. I'll ****ing show up at your house when you aren't at home. I'll turn all the lights on in your house, leave all the water running, open your fridge door and not close it, and turn your gas stove burners on and let them waste gas. I'll turn your air conditioning on high and open all the windows. I'll turn your cable box on and order 20 pay per view channels at once, and I'll pick up your phone and dial a pay-per-minute sex line in Japan.

lmao!! Im fat and still LOLing! Anyways, Im pretty sure I seen this beasts daughter about a month ago on youtube! They sound the same and look idenical! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-fFcjLMw7M

The upgrades you did should not effect performance but increase performance (well all except the carpeting of the box which usually looses a few tenths of a db on the term-lab). None the less none of these things you did should cause a woofer to break. Which leads me to believe you did something without knowing it, or on accident and didnt notice. Starting from most likely to least likely: *you could of bumped the single/master/slave (switch which would result in little output if the amp is in master and is looking for the slave that is not there, or it is slave). *you plugged in the rca cords into the "passthru" of the amp, instead of the input. *you plugged the rca cords for the highs amp into the sub amp and the headunit crossover is limiting the lows from being played thru the amp. *you could of rewired the subs in phase, but at a much higher impedance (resulting in huge power loss). *you could of bumped the Infrasonic Filter (if it was previously off, and depending on your LPF setting it is resulting in very little output). *the speakers could be wired out of phase (tho they look in phase from the video). Should be a decent, easy, fast, list of troubleshooting tips for you to try, and more then likely it will be one of those things in the list. As for the the pop sound in your other video. turn on/off pops are normally causes from a delay on the remote circuit of the headunit. To test it, I would disconnect the remote wire from your amp, and jump a wire from your amps Positive power input terminal to your remote terminal so the amp turns on, then remove it so it turns off. If the pop is no longer there you know you have an issue someplace between your indash radio and the end of your remote wire. I have also seen this happen when people mistake the blue and blue white wires on the radio harness, and hook their amp remote turn-on to the power antenna wire instead of the remote wire, and when you turn the radio off the power antenna wire stays on for a little longer to lower the power antenna. So what ends up happening is the radio is off, but yet the power antenna wire is still on resulting in your amps to be on a little longer with no input signal coming from the rca's, resulting in a pop once the amp finally turns off.

Konaki is pretty cheap stuff. However depending on the model, many have been known to take DD 9500 series recones and stuff them in the konaki motors, and make a pretty decent cheap woofer

LOL!!!!!!!! Thanks train!

I gave choochoo train a free plate amp for his home theater sub he wants to play with. he was prompt with sending money to cover the shipping charges great person to work with!!

LOL Nah, I did that because he is always giving to the community with this site, sponsering SOTM when there is no sponsers, and he helped me out back in the day with a new bass knob for my rf t10001bd's when I didnt have the knob. So I figured Id send him something in return since it dont appear to happen much (tho I could be completely wrong). PS: Im not selected to be a beta tester, it just sounded good

LOL @ Rick!! Hey steve, I just got the email from you! Thanks for allowing me to beta test it too! Cheers

I have a makita impact and drill, but I havent used them in the longest time to build a box. I use a brad nailer and lots of glue, and clamps to ensure a good tight bond until the glue flashes. When I build walls, I use my makita impact a lot however!

Actually USACI does also do legal sealed up on a B&K meter. ya, 10 years ago maybe... the cetrified meter for db drag, meca, mwspl, emma, usaci, idbl, nspl, db cup, and recently now iasca is the Term-Lab. If there is still a usaci show using the B&K Id have to be most certain that it is not a sanction usaci event, and probably just some shop with a meter using the usaci name to get competitors to the shows.. Ive been doing usaci for the last 3 years on and off, and never even seen the B&k at the shows.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rztAWbagSgU http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZC3RXCNoFE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgArKfEqGA4 and his old setup from a few years ago with 6 15inch AA Havocs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32592hOl0yk

This is my friends and teammates ride, its now sold to one of his friends with the wall but without the gear. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tf_qTnv8w3w http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhZqoSYJ1Cg

Ive tried the ones on at best buy already, was not impressed at all with them. The only thing they have going for them is they are boosted a little bit. I use some Sony MDR-V700 DJ style headphones on my computer that are amped from a stereo receiver and they seemed to get a lot louder, cleaner, and drop way lower, and only cost 70-80 bucks depending where you shop. I have a buddy with the the beats earbuds, and again nothing to spectacular with them, I prefer my DD earbuds over them bulky beats that constantly want to fall out of your ear. But again, this is Monster, if you know any 1 thing about Monster, it is marketing gimmicks!! Not only with the Dre Beats, but just about every other artist they released headphones for that are just cosmetically different with the same mechanical parts. That is seriously all monster is good for, over priced products that claim to be better but are not. Just look at the 0/1 gauge monster power wire for car audio. It has a plastic tube in the center of the wire reducing the strand count, but it is their to speed up the current flow and allow more current to pass thru the wire....... LOL Real Beats or Fake Beats, if your going to spend hundreds of dollars on some "high dollar" head phones, get something legit and be done with it! Like Sennheiser /rant

also a video telling real vs fake. The guy said he got the fake beats from dhgates!!!

They are FAKE! The box does not have the TM (trademark after the Beats by dr dre TM), or a trade mark on the back after the word "studio" As well as on the side of the box, the image of dr dre, it is very dark and blurry. The real beats have a clear and bright picture of Dr dre. Use this site and check out the fakes from the reals with ease!! http://forums.ilounge.com/ear-headphones/258315-fake-monster-beats-studio-hd-here-how-tell-real-fake.html

yea, spaxx has speacial screws for mdf. Ive always used them for mounting woofers, they hold good, and its one of the only screws I found that my makita impact driver dont break the heads off of. Lol

not even 6k of power.. them amps model numbers are their peak power. so a massive 6000 would be 3000rms. lol