audiofanaticz

See you a die-hoe, I'll bravo I'll kill you, still a bitch in my book Loaded, and smokin Now I'm blowin, cause you a bitch in my BOOK... Just a bitch in my BOOK... This hoe is a slut in my booook...

I mean you can try running the capacitors yet. They may do fine once you fix the major problems. Such being the positive wire running from your alt to your battery. I personally think that this is your main problem even tho you say it is a hassle, its a hassle that all of us have to deal with, and if the factory wire that runs from your alt to your battery is too small it can easily overload (due to the added current draw of the stereo) and melt/burn/start a fire. Its not that Monster Cable is a gimmick in general. Its just that they use marketing gimmicks to sell their products and sometimes up their price. As for the batteries. Stay away from Optima, they are decent batteries and use to be the battery to have for car audio 10+ years ago because they where a deep cycle gel battery that could be drained and recharged with very minimal effects on its lifespan. However thru the years optima is still making the same exact batteries as they where 10 years ago with minimal upgrades that technology has brought us thru the years. If by Maxxima batteries you mean EXIDE, they have some decent batteries and maybe cheaper to go with then Stinger. Im unaware of where you are in Europe, but BTLD is a UK/EU Rep for Ascendant Audio, Fi Car Audio, XS Power, Powermaster, KnuKonceptz, He maybe able to get you XS Power batteries in your area, or at least cheaper then having to pay shipping from the good ol US of A. His website is www.BladeICE.com or try sending him a Private Message on the forums. Here is his profile http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showuser=10337 and his latest build that is outstanding!! Defiantly worth the time to check out the guys skills if you got a good hour to kill http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=49838

Yes, it appears to be a simple fix, but the only way to do it properly is at the former and replace the whole tinsel lead. The drivers where obviously having tinsel slap or too much excursion and is what looks like is the reason for it to rip. Soldering it back onto the speaker terminal will work, but most likely at lower volumes. Once the driver starts to move it will just rip off again from the simple fact that it is now just a tad shorter then it was origional since it ripped.

I myself hate kinetik. I think I said it in one of my replies. Just listed them because they are some of the most used batteries in car audio. All XS Power batteries in my vehicle no kinetik. only reason Im saying ditch the capacitors is because he already has a lacking electrical system and its not even that much power. The capacitors are just another draw that can be replaced with a decent brand battery and will stabilize voltage a lot better. If you want to use a capacitor to stop your lights from dimming, then hook it up to the main power wire that goes to your vehicles fuse center under the hood. Lol. As you said Iso, Stingers are great batteries, but you can get the same battery cheaper going directly thru the source and bypassing the stinger hype markup EDIT: Just seen in your sig Iso. He has mad voltage drop so his caps dont do much

Looks like an Image Dynamics from the blue basket, and the blue wings that wrap around the magnet slug.

Well your first problem is you continuing thinking that capacitors help. When I say a "good capacitor" I mean something along the lines of Xstatic batcap "the cap" by alumapro or the rockford fosgate . Those are real capacitors. One of the small kinetik batteries for a comparison are 100times stronger then a 1 farad capacitor like you are using. These little capacitors are nothing but a gimmick to spend money on something that really serves no purpose. Thats why hardly anyone uses them anymore. Mosnter cable wiring is also another gimmick. They claim "Patented Magnetic Flux Tube® allows for greater current transfer" All your buying is a power wire with a plastic tube down the middle giving you less strand count and less wire, for a bigger price tag. If this plastic tube gives you a greater current transfer other wire manufactures would be doing the same thing. Their rca's are over priced, the only good thing about monster cable rca's is if you end up having a frayed cord or it stops working for some reason you can exchange it over the counter at any dealer without questions asked. However I am still unaware if they still have that warranty, and even if they do it doesnt justafy paying the extreme mark up for the cables when your standard $10 rca cords sound just as good as the $30+ cords. Didnt notice that battery in the trunk part at first, but with that being in the trunk and no battery upfront, Im guessing this is causing most of your dimming problems. Since the battery is in the rear its nice and close to your amps which is a bonus. However the battery is draining faster then it can be charged. Part of the charging issue maybe caused by a small gauge wire being ran from your alternator to your battery. Most likely its just a factory 4 gauge wire, 2gauge if your lucky. So just running a nice run of 1/0 front to back may help a lot!

His amps are 2 Pioneer Premier PRS-D1000s http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7420_P...PRS-D1000M.html

Nice clean looking install to start with! First thing Im going to suggust is to loose the capacitors. Cheaper capacitors dont do much, and often times hurt the install more then help it! Capacitors instantly drain on a single bass note. Already having a lacking charging system a capacitor is just going to hurt it that much more. XS Power and Kinetik both make great car audio batteries. I prefer the XS Batteries over Kinetik, some like Kinetik better. These are the 2 main battery companies being used in car audio today. You cant go wrong with any of these batteries. There are also some other battery companies such as Stinger, Odyssey, and Hawker. However Enersys is the main manufacture, and those 3 listed companies buy the batteries from Enersys and put their own name on them. You will find that Stingers are the most expensive, then odyssey a little cheaper, and hawker cheaper yet. The 2nd thing Im going to suggust after removing your capacitors is upgrade your battery under the hood, XS Power or Kinetik should have a battery that will fit in your stock location. Also do the wiring upgrade under your hood called the "Big 3". Upgrading your alternator wire to the battery, a new ground from your battery to your chassis, and a ground from your engine to your battery is going to stiffen up your electrical system all together. Keep your factory wires intact when you do this, the factory wires will still help reduce resistance. It seems that a lot of audio shops either dont know about this wiring upgrade, or just dont care to do it, but it is key to having a good electrical system, even if you have a stock alternator. Im not aware if you did your install or a shop, but another good thing to check is your ground location for your amps. It is bad to just screw a ground wire the vehicles body with a self taping screw. So many people do this, and it hurts performance bad. The best way to ground your amps is with a separate run of ground wire from front to back, if you have a rear battery run a ground from front battery to rear battery as well as ground the rear battery to the chassis too. If this is something you dont feel like doing the next best thing to do is ground directly to the vehicles frame and be sure to grind away any rust or paint for the best connection possible before bolting (not screwing) the ground to the frame. Most vehicles stock alternator will support a 2nd medium size battery in the rear as well as the stock battery up front. A quality battery will have a faster discharge rate, and discharge more current then a factory battery that has maybe 900 warm cranking amps if your lucky. While its true that a battery will improve the duration you can bump your music, but it will also help take some of the load your alternator has to do. What you really want to shoot for is running your stereo off of battery power, and having your alternator a way to maintain your batteries capacity and kept charge. There is a module out called the MLA that works on both high output alternators and factory alternators. What it does is makes your alternator charge at a slightly higher voltage. Higher voltage results in needing less current to make the same amount of power. Im not sure if one is available for your car however. By just removing your capacitors, doing the big 3 upgrage, and ensuring you have proper grounds for your amps I can assure you that you will notice a huge difference in your voltage drops. Adding a nice agm battery under the hood like xs power will make a world of difference! From there you can go on to see if you will need a 2nd battery in the back, or maybe a highoutput alternator. Of coarse its always wise to have a good alternator, but they do get expensive, but will make a night and day difference!

Oh man, that so reminds me of school bus wiring

x2

Yes, there is. A few different companies make a simular product like 3M How much flex it will stop im unaware of, but im sure it would do something if it can stop a bullet from going thru glass. http://www.securityprousa.com/sasefi.html

Disregard the looks of it! This sub will out beat the new T3 TSNS, AA SMD, DC lvl 6, and the DD Z all put together!

I put my stereo up for sale on caco, but my thread was deleted. So I posted it on a "better" forum If your interested leave a message on the thread linked below! http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...d=1#post6867067 lols

x2

Just thought it was cool how he gave Second Skin a shout out in a Q & A video with PWK. Ruffly about 4 minutes into the video.

Being this above. Id maybe return the combo box. Or just find some crappy amp like you posted... When you said you where looking for quality, I was assuming that you at least had a quality sub(s), but that is not the case. It dont really pay to spend big bucks on a good amp for something of this nature. Id personally look into a 2 channel amp and bridge it at 4 ohms. RF P500-2 500wrms by 1 @ 4 ohms briged (most likely slightly under rated) $250 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9626_R...nch+P500-2.html Kicker 08ZX850.2 850wrms by 1 @ 4 ohms bridged (most likely slightly under rated) $300 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11547_...+08ZX850.2.html Hifonics ZXi 1010 1000wrms by 1 @ 4 ohms bridged (most likely over rated and would do 700-850wrms bridged @ 4 ohm) $119 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11203_...s+TXi+6008.html Power Acoustik BAMF-2200/2 900wrms by 1 @ 4 ohms bridged (most likely over rated) $170 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14907_...AMF2200-2-.html Just a few suggestions. Id personal go with the Kicker amp on the list because it is a quality amp and in your needed power range. Not to mention if you ever upgrade in the future to new subs and sub amp the kicker would make a wonderful 2 channel amp for a nice set of component speakers. Otherwise if you just want something for bass and dont want to spend the money and just looking for something you probolly wont ever want to use in the future again, the Hifonics fits the budget well and close to being in your needed power range.

yes

They maybe narrow, but they are long! Pretty sturdy amps i wouldnt mind them. Just gotta have power. Buddy of mine has 12 in his van powering six 15s Deff like the newer ones over the old ones, but id be happy with a pair of either or

why at 4 ohms? you cant wire your sub(s) to a 1 or 2 ohm load?

Any amp made by "SPL" is garbage. Its below Power Acoustik quality. your almost better off going to walmart and buying dual! LOL

If you mean this: http://www.amazon.com/SPL-Z1X-3000D/dp/B000AQD9IY JUNK! If you mean this: http://spldynamics.fi/oldmodels/oldamps/ext-3000d-e.htm JOO AINT READY!

Its not all GMs that dont like the fancy plugs, Mostly the 4.3L's that seem to have problems I have E3 plugs in my tahoe 5.7vortex and not an issue, but the distributor caps and rotors are a HUGE problem. http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/ So id suggest trying a ac delco cap & rotor, and most likely it will fix his problems. Its a hell of a lot cheaper fix to try before spending big bucks having a mechanic tinker around.

What kind of distributor cap did you buy? Theres a major problem with chevys not liking the cheap autozone or advance auto distributor caps such as wells, duralast etc. It has something to do with the cheaper metal used inside that conducts the spark, and the gap between the cheaper cap and rotor differs from the factory delco cap and rotor. Ive heard this from my buddies that had the same issues on a few of their trucks and a astro van with a 4.3v6. Ive had the same exact problems in my truck, and swapped it out with a cap/rotor to see if what I heard was right. Needless to say the cap/rotor i used I pulled outta my buddies junkyard from a 96 suburbin with 170k miles and what looked to be the origional plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Needless to say it fixed my problem and didnt miss unlike the Wells brand cap/rotor. The next day I went to gm to get a delco cap and rotor and replaced the junkyard parts and its been fine. A shitty cap will throw off timing a good bit and make your vehcile miss bad. Edit: I also want to add, that the miss I had only happened after I did the tune up. Using bosch wires, E3 sparkplugs that where around $7.00 a piece, and just a cheap wells brand cap/rotor. Problem was then gone after a factory gm parts where put back on.

HSBC, First Premeir Bank, Capital One will give Credit Cards to damn near anyone! HSBC and First Premeir Bank both have annual fees. iirc its a $75 yearly fee. I know for a fact that FPB will nail you with almost $175 worth of setup and annual fees. Id look for something without annual fees, and try to stay away from anything higher then 15% interest rates (but these fluctuate according to credit).

Same here. LOL