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Everything posted by audiofanaticz
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if you have the high level input plug that comes with the amp, you hook it up to the closest speakers to the amp (proboly the rear speakers). you hook up the the left speakers pos and neg, and the right speakers pos and neg, and then you just have to ground out the other wire. So then the amp will gets it signal from the headunits amp.
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Paint
audiofanaticz replied to a topic in Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
Id think you would want to sand off the lose paint, use some sort of rust inhibitor to contain the rust from spreading farther, do any sort of body work with some bondo to restore the rusted spots out and make it smooth and correct again. then some primer, paint, and clear coat and a good buff job but im not really up to par on body restorations. but it should get you started in the right direction id think. -
it really depends on the headunit. Theres some companies that offer 4 or 5 volt pre outs, but if you test them they are not what said to be. but the length in the rca cords play a role in your pre out voltage your amps receive too, resistance is a bitch. I can say my kenwood screen was 4 volt pre outs, but in the trunk after 15 feet of rca cords all I could get out of it was 2.8 volts. Only way to be able to tell, is to hook a dmm up to your rca's and turn it up til you reach the "claimed" output voltage ( you will also want to take note of what volume your at on the headunit too becauce chances are anything after that maybe clipping). But seeing its a cheaper kenwood headunit with 1 set of rca outputs, im also going to take a guess on a low voltage signal. So I wouldnt reccomend using y cables/slitters. Your best bet would to be use the preouts on the headunit for the subs, and select the subwoofer setting for the rca outputs. Then use the "high level input" on the boss se-950 2 channel amp if your bro has the plug for it (then you wont need a high level output converter). but if he dont have the plug then you will need to pick one up at a shop or wherever.
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Most likely not, because 16 volt batteries, are going to need to be charged at 18 volts or a bit higher for a full charger to the batteries. (db drag only allows 18 volts tho). So all your electronics connected to the 16 volt batteries are going to see 18 volts (just like all electronics connected to a 12volt battery see 13.7-14.4 volts when vehicle running). your headunit, any sort of sound processors you run (bass cube, line driver, rf360.2, maxx-link, etc) will have to be ran off of the 12 volt setup, as well as any amp for your mids and tweets.
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If anything, id do your main battery under with the kinetik 12/16 volt battery having to eliminate the stepdown regulators, but if I remember right the powermaster 16v batts walk all over kinetik.I remember reading about the 12/16 volt batts and a problem with them is them getting a full charge becuase of the multi cell. As said in the flyier scotty cent me recently it says Yes 199% safe with the stepdown regulators! But as someone else said, these stepdown regulators get expensive quick. I cant totally recall the price, but your looking at least $75-99 for 1 powermaster regulator (depending where you order). And your going to need 2 stepdown regulators at least (most likely 3) since the powermaster stepdown is only rated for 50 amp output. There are cheaper stepdown modules on the market that are like 40amp rms and 80 amp peak, but there still $40+ and made cheaply with no way to distribute heat. going 16 volt gets kinda expensive with my d3100s, i charged them with my externally regulated iraggi 300 amp alt at 15.5 daily, and left my car plugged in at home when not in use with a constant 2amp trickle charge. Edit: Scotty J, thanks again for the sticker hookup, and if you see this. Id like a powermaster banner for in my garage. Let me know what it cost?
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alltho your 100% correct. I must say after driving caddys all my life (the tahoe being my first non caddy) its very hard to change your mindset when you say you want a caddy. Theres no acura thats going to change your mind otherwise (unless its something like a NSX or something) but its just something about caddys that make you feel like king sh1t on the road. But that could really be the ego from your stock northstar passing all these "fast" imports with the deacals that make them go zoom zoom zoom with the coffee can exhaust and their big blow off valves for the 2lbs of boost from their stock turbo.
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Happy B-day Applejack
audiofanaticz replied to David's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
happy bday! -
yes, and you wouldnt even have to redesign the box. It be pretty easy, your board length for the board D would be different, it would be 2 pieces instead of 1 solid. F and G pieces can just be flipped around so that the port would be in the center, and not have to change any measurements on them.
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First Sanctioned Spl Event(148.2 @27 Hertz)
audiofanaticz replied to edog's topic in SPL - SOUND PRESSURE LEVEL
your car almost always peaks a bit higher then box tuning. If his box is tuned at 27 hertz, and he burps at 27 hertz and does a 148.2 db, he could proboly go and burp at a 35hertz and gain a bit. A sine sweep like boon says will allow you to see if you get any louder at a different freq, unless you wanted to do 1hz increments at a time. -
Car Audio Shops..
audiofanaticz replied to bossgator's topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
I also work at one. -
Is There A Difference?
audiofanaticz replied to a topic in Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
thats really really old but still funny
