audiofanaticz

very nice air brush job!

I wasnt bashing your forsale thread until you said it would perform when it wouldnt under the posters conditions. A guy asked if the amp is stable at 1 ohm with his electrical in mid 13's dropping down to low 12's. That amp is prone to smoke if you ran it at 1 ohm daily with 12-13 volts. The power supplies would be trying to draw power that isnt there, the power fets will get very hot and snap crackle pop. Mhmm that makes me hungry for rice krispy's. Why be shady and tell a potential customer that the amp will perform fine for daily use at 1 ohm when his electrical drops down to 12volts I think it was. It takes much more amperage to back that amp at 1 ohms, and this guy wanted to do it on stock electrical, this amp will easily draw 300+ amps at 1 ohm. Your just asking to fry the amp. Like I said I got expeirence with this amp, my buddy runs one and it gets very hot after a few burps with 4 duralast batteries (not the best) at 1 ohm. You sold the amp, congrats. The price was right for it, tho I dont think the price to buy them new is too great for a ma audio, but none the less decent amps. I just dont think telling potential buyers that it will work when clearly it wont last is not to smart. Ive only sold a few things to people on smd, a few radios and a line driver. I think I sold my linedrive to Chode for 25$ shipped, and donated that money to smd, I also gave him a brand new set of 4 channel knukonceptz rca's. Which I see one selling on smd right now for $70... I sold a very lightly used premier unit to jonathen, he was kinda sad when he used it in db drag because the pause button is hidden through a bunch of menu settings, so I shipped him out a older pioneer remote with pause (at no charge to him), just to satisfy a buyer even though he got the stock remote with the unit with no pause. But like I said, i find it shady to say that something will do such and such when it clearly wont.

I really think that mechman, and this new team member basebalz are some douchebags! Im really waiting for this mechman alternator to be build for dudes couger, I want to laugh when the alt fails like the 6 plus that Dom had built for this guy. But hey us at team mechman claim that alternators put out watts and not amps! Lets think of why alts fail, dude claims to have a battery bank, then on someother site he posts that he runs one battery with an american bass 500.1 that draws well over 500 amps (from one battery and a 300 amp alt) Then we claim that charging near dead or half dead batteries will not kill a alternator... After all Irragi uses plastic fans that are superglued into or onto the alternators?!?!? Yup, douchbags. See ya! Oh yea guys, MLA products are proven to work, and are SMD approved. Mechman = ___________? you guys can fill in the blank PS: mechman, team mechman whatever you call yourself, I hope you got a comeback more then saying I build lame walls that dont perform, or applying that Im gay because I back Irragi's products.

+1 rep for mla

happy bday

I talked to him, he claims he done nothing, then tried saying that i stole his crap out of his truck. So susposovly someone jacked his shit, so I wont be able too.. Maybe the reason for his being jacked is why he took the crap from my garage. I dont know. I told him I want my damn wire back the rest I dont really care about thats why the junk audio is in my garage. Everything adds up to be him still. I dont know if I can trust what he saying or not. The caddy on 20s with 18s in a wall parked right infront of my garage was untouched, but then again it has one bad ass alarm installed so that maybe why. Im feeling a little better knowing that I still got the drill and I just never put it back in the garage. feeling a lil better now, I went to the casino with 50$, and had dinner at Ihop and still had 75$ left so Im up a whopping 25$. Maybe its time to get a case of beer, and sleep on my back porch with a baseball bat with my car doors, windows and trunk wide open. I mean really why would you mess around with garbage when theres so much more! I got buddys at all audo shops in town so they are on the lookout, so who knows. All I know is that Id hate to be the guy that walks into my buddys shop to buy terminals ore something stupid or ask them why one of the blown subs dont work because there will be some fighting going on, and they got some big bolt cutter that will fit nice around your fingers.

yea, but he also has a gazillion pimp ass 6.5s in his hoe made by re! I wouldnt mind 2 of them, maybe every other component speaker I throw in my car would last.... LOL

I had 50 state legal 40 series flowmasters on my car. I got a few warnings and one fix it ticket. Any mod to the vehicle that is not factory is illegal. Big rims, stereo, exhaust, headers, racing seats, roll cage etc illegal from what I checked into on the dot.gov site even if it is dot approved or state legal.. Kinda screwed if you ask me. But then again maybe its just a wisconsin law. not sure.

also, thats one of my favorite movies too! curb check ftw!!

They are the massive d100x's 2 of them. http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Massive_Audio_D100X/ and the square hifonic subs.. I hooked the shit up for him, I can take it out.. Shit just pisses me off. I gave this guy a ride too and from work for over a year, we worked in grafton its a 40 minute drive one day. I thought he was decent, but I guess he is just another 19 year old punk kid. On the other hand, I found the drill. It was under my amp rack in my trunk. LOL so Im not as angry as I was before.. And Im missing a 2 channel eclipse amp that I recently took out of my car since all my amps are american bass now. The amps was this kids, he was borrowing it to me at the time, and thats gone. It makes perfect sense to point fingers at him, the sub box was in my garage attic which he helpped me put up there. It was recently moved there, no ones been in my garage but him and me, and a couple other friends (which I known since we I was 2 years old), they are very close to my family and vice versa and plus the box I sold to one of them for their car for 20 bucks, just needed wood so I can build a new box for the other decent working 12. This guy wanted the box and subs even tho he knew they where fried, but I wouldnt give em up. He wanted to buy the power wire off me, but he wouldnt pay $2.00 a foot for it (said he can get it cheaper). You wont even get knock off zero gauge cheaper or KLM wire. and the eclipse amp is gone (which he has every right taking because its his). And for the last few days when I tried to get a hold of him before I noticed this stuff missing today he never answered or returned calls, and today when I called his phone is shut off or had a number change. I dont think I need much more evidence, Im not even gonna waste time calling the cops, they just say hooray more stereo gear we wont have to hear. I just want my damn wire!! 100+ feet is a nice chunk of change at $3.25 a foot. Oh and the best part I dont know if i said that my lights where on in my garage, but there is a certain way to turn them on. I ran my own 220 volt in my garage, and got my 120 spliced off the 220 breaker, you have to turn that breaker on, then turn another breaker on for the 120 which is in a different spot of the garage, then you have to go and turn the light switch on. All that just proves to me that it is someone i know and thats been in my garage. Im going to the damn casino now. I better win big!! Oh and I also just screwed up a big piece of 3/4 mdf over the barn style garage doors with about 50 3 inch screws... Good luck for the next person getting in! and im gonna start parking my car like i use to, rear bumper tight against the other door.

I use to have a old kicker box. 2 l7 12s in a prefab kicker box. 1 is fried stiff, the other has coils that read really high. Ive recently cleaned my garage up a bit, and put this box in the back of my garage attic last week. Its a pita so I had a friend help. He is the only one that knew where it was. I went out to the garage and noticed my lights on (i dont leave them on) to get a borrowed drill out of it. Well needless to say the drill is gone. Its just a 80 skill drill/flashlight/2 batts/charger deal. Well I got the flashlight, the one batt on the charger, and the charger, but no drill! And no box.. and about 50 feet of knu flex pos and 50 feet neg gone...This fucker was gonna buy the wire but why buy it when you can steal it i guess. So this motherfucker is gonna die, and Im gonna have a new stereo up for sale I think. 2 12 inch hifonic atlas subs, and 2 1000 watt memphis amps.. This mother fucker hasnt answered my calls in the last few days and now his number is changed. I called his boss today, and if i hear nothing back game on!

and yes, that looks like black ca glue to meh. I circled it in red. My old dd cones, but the tinsels come through the cone at a much higher level then the dc's.

I guess DC's are not glued. Normally speakers that have the tinsels comming through the cones at a higher level (not right next to the coil) will be glued. Its still good pratice to glue them down after you resolder the new ones. The solder joint is a secure way for attaching wires together, but there is nothing to keep that chunk of solder from bouncing all over the cone and sometime soon failing. I fixed some cerwin vega pros with new tinsels and they where shot in a week becasue the solder let go and broke off the wire from the coil. Solder wont bond to a paper cone. I look at it as good pratice improving upon manufactures design.

They are universal, but they basically cut your gain down not the bass. If your amp has a remote bass knob, then you add this you will tech have remote gain. It limits the pre out voltage from your head unit being sent into your amps. (Ie cutting or boosting the gain), but with the knob all the way up, and your amp gain set properly you wont have to worry about clipping at all. I have had one for a while now, but no said screw it and just use the onboard sub controls. The knob is failing and very static sounding when turned.

Iggy!! welcome to smd! That is if your the same iggy... LOL This is old, about as old as steves.. I got a higher overclock on my rig right now, and a few different components. Im sure its a bit higher now, but good enough for the number 2 spot. If someone beats me, I will simply volt mod my mobo and break the 3mhz mark on my sk939, and retest.

theres a lot there, mostly everything on that site has been said here more then one time. Just in more deteal. Lets see, it says: Phillips & sylvania brand kits are good, all other plug and play system sold on ebay are junk. But if you find a decent kit, with a decent warrenty, I say go for it. You get bad hotspots and glare from hid's being placed in a non projector housing. The higher the color temp, the less light output. Nice job on those foglight retros too stephan!

was it a good turnout? I got a call saying, "dude my voice coil just shot through my cone" from stewie... LOL

also make sure your serpentine belt is snug. It may have got stretched/worn out with age.

LoL Yea. 1) Find your ground wire in your wiring harness for your cd player (it should be the black wire) 2) Splice another ground wire into the ground on your harness. It only needs to be about 5 inches long or so (long enough to reach the back of your cd player). ***Also try to use a black wire so this way in the future you know its a ground if you ever take your cd player out for any reason*** 3) After you resoldered your harness and shrink tubed it, wire capped it, or just twisted the wires and electrical tapped it back up, strip the other end of the wire and you want to attach it to the outside plug of the rca terminal. How you attach it is up to you, but easiest way is trying to twiste it around the outside of the plug, and then plug the rca cord back in, and have it hold in place by the plug. ***make sure that no wire touches the center pin of the rca cord (the part of the cord that sticks out, and slides into the hole)*** 4) Put everything back together and test it out and see if its fixed. Just a small image for a visual. This is usally a common problem with some pioneer headunits. If it dont work try checking the ground on your amplifier, make sure that its grounded securly to bare metal and that everything is tight.

try grounding out the outside of the rca plugs. Just split the ground from your radio harness to do this, should fix the problem.

yea. Im gonna have to change my answer and also say go with the video amps. For the price you cant beat it, and youll know you will have good video then. They seem very cheap in price, cheaper then i expected. $12-$30 cant really go wrong! http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewcat.php...mp;order_by=asc

Oh yea, and the fan i grabbed is out of a 2000 chevy tracker. Its the air conditioner condensor fan. Its about 16" from mount to mount with a 14 inch blade and a shallow 3.5 inch depth, so I can put it pretty much anywhere

Do you really want to spend that kinda money on a fan? for real? get serious man!!! The square stinger fan for $12 bucks is a rip off and a half!!! even with the smd discount (nothing against darves) its jsut stingers prices are cracked out. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16835166039 That fan is over 10cfm more, and $0.69 cents. Theres other cheep ones too, and newegg combines shipping if you get multiple items. EDIT: the square stinger fan is only 2.35", that is smaller then a normal computer case 80mm fan. LOL Its no different then the stinger batteries that are outragiously priced. You can get the same battery made by hawker for over half the cost. Stinger just buys them and puts there labels on it. This is why I dont run stinger crap. And dont even get me started on there $600 alternators................ See those are great too. I got mine from the junkyard, it was free, but Im sure you can goto any salvage yard and search radator or a/c condensor fans and get one for $15 or less. 1550cfm is no joke and that cheaper then the stingers and moves 50+ times more air then the stingers... and after you buy 50 stinger fans to equal the same output your looking at a nice chunk of change spent on garbage Also, you dont want to blow the fans on the mosfets. It wont cool the amp too well, the mosfets are attached to the aluminum heatsink, the heatsink is meant to cool the mosfets down, so if your constantly moving air over the heatsink you will dissapate much more heat then just blowing air around inside the amp since the heatsink is mostly covered up by the amps circuit board.

x3 Are you guys seriously trying to fry the remote wire on your headunits? The remote wire on a headunit is very low amperage 12 volt. The amperage is so low that it cant even spin the fan as fast as a computer can! A relay is your best solution, wire it up to your remote, then have the relay turn not only your amps on, but your fans too! You will get more power to the fans giving you more cfm. Tho I dont really know what you want to do with such small fans, I guess there great to use the small ones if you got them laying around, but not worth the money to go buy some. I just went to the junk yard my buddys work at and grabbed me one of these to blow on my amps, might get another one yet. Plus on those hot days at a competition it will feel good having these suckers blow out my trunk, because ill just put my chairs behind my car open the trunk grab a cold brew and chillax Just one of these moves more air then them big box fans you can get to put in your windows at your house and then next to a 80mm computer case fan...