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audiofanaticz

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Everything posted by audiofanaticz

  1. is it the actual SPL cone you have? or do you have the megaroll v2 that use to called the spl cone for a while? Plus with how the sub is currently built now you could have a huge impedance rise that you didnt have before giving you less power on those higher frequencies. Which is kinda why I asked you what the sub is actually doing when playing those frequencies. I try to stay pretty up to date on the Sundown stuff and use their parts a bit on other brand woofers so I have a sense on how they work. You can buy a DATs on PartsExpress for like $100 to measure your own T/S parameters, or if you have an SMD IM/SG you can measure them with that too!! Pics?
  2. Also a side note for port velocity and a perfect example is Meades Tahoe. His port is hella small something like 140 sq inches for 4 18s, there should be a lot of port noise and his port is violent due to the port velocity, but you cant really hear any port noise. He has even built different ports with more port area and played with tuning for the box and he said they all metered pretty much the same. I think there maybe old pictures in his build logs even but I forget its been so long. I just remember asking him about it a while ago and that is why the port is bolted in, and not permanent.
  3. While more port area wont limit the upper frequencies the box being tuned at 32hz and with said frankenwoofer it may not play those frequencies that are 20+ hz above tuning the same as the old woofer especially with the changes made. From the Zv3 to the X series there is a 11hz drop in FS, granted since it is a frankenwoofer it could be a bit different than that still since the motor will have a huge roll on the T/S parameters so its not like you can just insert numbers from the 2 models thought it will give you a slight idea. Increasing port area even more will not get you to hit those high notes like it once did, and if you went to model both the X series and the Zv3 series in the same exact box you would have 2 completely different results which would back up what is being described. I would experiment with current box as much as possible with trying different things like raising tuning if you want more highs and shrinking port area just a little in an attempt to flatten out the range. Also iirc the box specs on Sundowns site haven't been changed forever and I remember someone there saying they needed to be updated and I thought that they were working on that, because all the X, Zv4, Zv5, NSv3, NSv4 all have the same suggested box specs.
  4. If the sub is flopping around like a fish out of water when your playing higher notes then you are unloading, unloading will typically be caused by 1 of 3 things or a combination of those things. Too much power, to much port, or playing out of tuning frequency. I personally don't like the port area by wattage method because things just like this happen, and that is why I prefer the per cube method. It only seems to work good in more of your SPL style builds where your only playing 1 frequency. You get to a point where too much is too much and you start to lose output. Ideally you want to take the sub(s) cone area, xmax, enclosure size, and applied power into consideration when figuring out port area. For a free calculator WinISD is great there is a graph for port velocity on there, its worth downloading and learning, or if you need something more basic Torres works decently well too but wont give you any port velocity numbers. Port velocity isn't that bad as long as you stay under 10-12% speed of sound. Depending on the setup and how the sub(s) and port are oriented you may not hear port noise at all even if you have a really high port velocity. For example a a box in the trunk with everything firing towards the rear of the vehicle.
  5. The softer X spider is going to change a lot, the X series is more tuned for the low end, not so much the Zv4 or Zv5 series though they can play low. The old Zv3 series use to be more sought after for SPL and because Sundown didnt have anything similar in their current line any longer they came out with the U series that had a very simlilar sound to the old Zv3 series. The X series has a distinct sound compared to any of the Z series (current generation or old) and using the X spider is going to be a lot softer of a suspension compared to the Zv3, Zv4, and Zv5 so it will have a lower fs. That being said if you are truly giving the woofer an actual 2000-2200 rms you are kind of large on the port area since the Zv3 is something like 34sq inches total in a 2.5 cubed net. So your at 40sq in a 2 cubed net and over powering it. A box tuned in such a low region such as 32 hz with a lot of port volume is going to have a significant drop off in the higher frequency ranges and that will also change from woofer to woofer that you install in that said box. Personally in daily applications Id say around 14sq per cube dependent on power. Typically you would increase box volume and port area to increase enclosure efficiency if you're lacking on power. Ideally you would want to run T/S parameters on the sub since its basically a frankenwoofer. Have you adjusted any crossovers on the amp such as changing the LPF? Did you somehow change the crossover on the deck to something lower? What is the sub doing physically wise when you play music with these higher frequencies? That could tell you a lot right there.
  6. Because the fuses are all internally connected as 1 fuse block inside the amp, there maybe 3 fuses but the amp sees it as 1 90 amp fuse instead of 3 30 amp fuses.. Similar to how some amps have two 1/0 gauge power and ground outputs, or some monoblocks have 2 positive and 2 negative speaker wire outputs even though they are internally connected as 1. So if 1 fuse is still good the amp will continue to play, though it is taking on the work load of the other 2 blown fuses plus its own. All fuses are not created equal, just because they are rated at a specific amperage doesn't mean they will blow at said amperage. In this case a 30 amp fuse might blow once current surpasses 30 amps for a period of time or it might blow once it surpasses 40 amps of current for a specific time. So that 1 fuse that was still good maybe a much stronger 30 amp fuse than the other 2 for one reason or another, could be a different brand, or a different production run made at a different time even.. If grounded out the outter shield of the RCAs fixed your engine whine that leads me to believe you hot swapped your rca cables at one point or another. Hot swapping your rca cables is when you unplug and plug them in when the radio/amp(s) are turned on. Which is fine to do as long as you don't touch the center pin of the RCA cable on anything grounded such as the vehicle body, battery ground, or even the outter rca terminal when you goto plug the rca back in (which can happen very easily without you even noticing). This is very similar to blowing the pico fuse on Pioneer radios, but it can happen to other brand radios as well when you hot swap the rca cables and short out the positive RCA cable signal. So if I was a betting man I would say you unplugged your RCA cables with the stereo on, grounded out your RCA cable one way or another which not only fried a trace inside your radio but also caused you to short out your amp and blow fuses. Its really the only logical thing since both issues appeared to happen at the same time. Of coarse Im sure you didn't do that, no one never does that and things just blow on their own!
  7. Cant remember who started this, maybe it was @pa-pa-platypus ? Maybe it was someone else but it was years ago. Anyways whoever it was had started leaving notes/comments in the shipping instructions when they ordered things, I think they original did it while ordering a pizza and could never get anyone to do what they said which was "Draw me a picture of a platypus licking an ice cream cone". Occasionally if I remember when ordering stuff I do it and never had it happen until now!
  8. I dont know why I like this, maybe there is another song that sounds like this or something? Seems so familiar but never really heard it before.
  9. No Guts no glory.. You always get that gut feeling no matter how knew it is or isnt. Just got to look towards the future and say its worth it your making it better.
  10. Bought his Audison BitTen from him, great communication, and everything was put in bags, and bubble wrapped to insure a safe ride to its new home!! Thanks Kyle!
  11. Same transmission in my 99 that has ate 3 rear ends now.. No transmission issues though with it being a 8600lbs *knocks on wood* However I scored a GM Goodwrench from the junk yard around 2010 or so with about 12k on it because mine had a TCC lockup issue.
  12. Me personally I dont care for corsair anything really any more, maybe their memory but that be about it. Im running a evga 1300watt psu which has been solid for as long as Ive had it, granted Im not mining.
  13. I mean they are going to be similar since they are all for the same thing. There are small differences in them such as wire awg, the evga looks a bit bigger, and the heatshreink on the corsair is shinny... ph and the lines on the connector are different sizes too.. LOL
  14. I always wanted to try winter tires out, but never felt like going through that whole hassle. Maybe if I had 2 sets of rims it be a bit more tempting.
  15. There was another thread months ago I posted these in with comparison shots of the current 4k model next to their last gen, and like 6 other brands. The guy that did it was VortexRadar on youtube. Quality video. The BlackVues are the best wtihout a doubt, even have additional options you can get with them such as mounts, battery backups, etc. Ive been wanting to pull the trigger on it for a while now, but just havent but researched the hell out of this brand. The only thing I would change is I would switch the power to a constant on source and not switched because it does detect impacts/movement and will automatically record if your away from the vehicle which cant be done when the power/ign is off, so in a way your hindering its functionality. The unit is smart in that sense and can detect when the vehicle is not moving. They say you need the Power Magic Pro wiring pack for this or the additional battery pack, but I dont see why really. I would assume the Pro wiring pack would have some function built into it to disable the camera if the stock vehicle battery gets too low, and or the battery pack option is to run the dash camera when the vehicle is off so it does not drain off the stock vehicle battery. However being audio guys with big quality batteries I dont think the camera would have enough drain to kill some beefy batteries and you should just be able to hard wire it directly without either methods they try to sell you on. Maybe I'll just have to buy one up to get to know it sooner than later, but the only thing that is stopping me is the 1080P rear camera. I know as soon as I buy it they will upgrade the model to have a 4k rear camera that weill match the front 4k camera, because thats all the thing is really missing imo. Plus thats the way things seem to go for me. LOL Here is the above said comparison video I posted months ago if anyone is interested in comparison videos of the Blackvue against other respected dashcams.
  16. If your ready for your mind to be blown watch this video.. A Lego Technic built Bugatti Chiron that actually drives using Lego Technic parts. The only thing that is not Lego is the frame, wheels/tires, and the chain which connects 2,304 motors.. www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-RtJOfFlZU
  17. I told him I would tow the DGAF Toyota back home from Cali to Wi and keep her alive and finish it off, and he was all for it. but he didnt want to give the subs and amps with it. Tried explaining that it wouldnt be the DGAF Toyota if it doesnt have the DGAF gear, but he wasnt buying into it. LOL
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