audiofanaticz

Item: Two custom built Sundown Audio Z v.1 18's (iirc these where only built in 15s when they where released) I am selling these for a friend, they are in my possession and I am the builder of these woofers, they where to be used in his car, but his plans changed and going another route. Specifications: Dual 1ohm flatwound aluminum bifilar coils (from Sundown Nightshade v.1) 3 stiff progressive roll spiders with sewed tinsels (from Sundown Nightshade v.2) 18inch cone/surrounds (from Sundown Nightshade v.2) Large Sundown polypropylene dust caps 6 spoke diecase 18inch baskets Machined aluminum pole plug Cadence 8gauge "direct connect" speaker wires (about 18inches long per coil) The original Sundown Z v.1 woofers where rated for 1,000 Watts RMS, The original Sundown Nightshade v.1 was rated at 1,500 Watts RMS. Id rate their power handling somewhere between those two woofers, they will most likely take a lot more power do to the fact that Sundowns ratings on everything are very conservative, however box, and clean unclipped power will be the limiting factor as with any woofer. Description/Condition: Pretty much freshly reconed, never seen much power since I did the recones. Only tested on a small home amp to check for any mechanical noise, other than that woofers have never been mounted or used. Both the baskets and the gaskets have been previously used however. I was loaned these woofers for a comp and upon blowing them in a matter of 20 seconds in a bassrace run due to the previous builder using cheap low quality chincy parts. I rebuilt the woofers with all Sundown parts like they should of been done the first time. I have around $250 into the recone parts alone, not including the 8 or so ounces of CA Glue. I went very heavy on the glue, triple joints should be super strong as well as being VERY stiff! Price: He is asking $700 shipped (in the USA) for the pair. No Trades I only except PayPal, or cash if local (I am willing to drive a little bit to meet up with the buyer). I will package the woofers similar to how you would receive a new woofer from Fi/AA for maximum shipping protection. I also have perfect buyer/seller feedback http://www.stevemead...aticz-feedback/ and very well known through out the audio community. Pictures (MANDATORY PICTURES WITH USER NAME & DATE):

After all most Alternator companies only rate their alternators at a "Hot" and "Cold" temp.

I know I cant touch my alts, especially when Im at a comp and my truck is running the whole 6+ hours at that comp, and most the time running at 1500-2000rpm. Hell if you can stand next to the open hood for any length of time I give props to you... I must be doing something wrong tho, because my exhaust manifolds directly below my alts make my alts hot. Maybe I should go buy a new autozone alt and act as if I bought some 300amp high output alt tho like carshateme.

yea your all good now bro. Me tho, not so much:( lol

thats probably due to a low monitor resolution you are using

it just loaded now finally. just hit refresh 20 times haha

what am I missing? it looks like a plan grey screen on my side. I also hate the new layout. I somehow lost my banner too

Just be ready for people looking at you as not a professional, and possibly bad reviews.

Guitar center is overpriceds... Best speakers, lol Sounds like you better have a solid $10grand and than some.. Most customers think JBL are top end speakers and they look for that logo and often times not go with a dj because he dont have JBL. Potential customers are that uneducated. RCF is another great brand, from Italy iirc. Mackie is great also. You can save a decent amount of money buying something like Eminence, they are huge and make a lot of the drivers used in other brand name cabinets and get rebadged (like audio amps kinda are rebadged). Dont forget to power those speakers now too, if your going for the "best" speakers and dropping a couple grand on those, you might as well get some nice Crown amps, maybe a nice Signal processor, and dont forget about a power condition, those are a must have for mobile guys!! A lot of people get bad vibes from a "dj" that comes in with just a laptop. They think why are we paying this guy money since we can make our own playlist and "dj" themselves. In todays day there are a lot of MIDI controls to be used with laptops and well they are nice, but Id still like a nice dual cd deck, Preferably Denon, or some nice or even some Pioneer CDJs. So theres another 1500$+ Dont forget about a nice mixer either, damn there goes another $500-1500 bucks! Now that you got all this nice PA gear setup, you might as well buy a nice rack to put it in for ease of mobility, and not to mention MUSIC! You have to buy all your music, You can get in serious trouble for using music that you downloaded from Kazaa, limewire, bearshare, whatever your thing was. There are a bunch of monthly music subscription which is a good place to start like TopHits USA, DANCE, PrimeCuts, Ultimix, Funkymix, there are literately so man monthly, biweekly music sources. They get expensive fast too! BUT your still going to want your oldies, rock, slow stuff, r&b, rap, hiphop, and make sure you have "clean" versions of your music. If your doing a wedding gig the guests are not going to want to listen to a song that goes "fuck this bitch and her ho ass friends too". You going to have to think of things that people are going to call you for. It be wise to know how to program your music too and know what to play when, and keep the customers happy, after all its what they want to hear, not you.. A lot of amateurs make that mistake Damn, I almost forgot about lighting, light truss, controllers. Going to want to budget a good couple grand for some decent lighting stuff. There is some cheaper fixtures out there, but your going to want some intelegent lighting as well. Id say you be good with about $2000-2500 worth of everything. Ive been seeing more and more of people wanting tv's or projectors setup to share photos or whatever they would like. This does not really meant for the dj to do it, but its an extra service to offer. I mean that is if you want to do it all right or even close to being legit. It probably be a very wise Idea to actually work for a mobile dj company for a few years before you go and think you can do it on your own and make a fool out of yourself.

http://www.wccaraudio.com/catalog/category/view/s/xs-flex/id/34/

Very nice! Looks like you got your vinyl cutter too Grats bassman!

crazy!! I spend so much money at SonicElectronix lawls

get in line........ Besides that someone else said they sent payment. So i will lock this assuming its sold. http://www.caraudioc...50-shipped.html

maxxlinks are garbage, I fixed mine 3 times before giving up on them. Even still maxxlink or not, you can only strap 2 amps together at once (unless the new b2 audio amps). While you can control up to 10amps with a maxxlink all your doing is strapping 5 pairs of amps together which can be done with out the maxxlink. All the maxxlink is gaining you is setting the crossovers up on the maxxlink so all amps are running the same crossover settings. You still have to physically volt match all amps so they put out the same power anyways so the maxxlink is gaining you nothing there. With the new tools such as the CC-1 and DD-1 you can set amps up all the same without the use of a maxxlink now.

umm no. All your doing with rockford amps are daisy chianing them together. You are not linking or strapping or combining 2 amps together to make 1 amp that puts out a large amount of power. Its a huge difference. You can only strap 2 amps together at one time. However the new B2 amplifiers can have a Master, and 2 slaves, and are the only amps, as well as the first amps that have the ability to strap 3 amps together.

Tuned in for sure!!

still for sale? will take it if it is, can pay monday once i get to the bank to deposit some money.

Techforce can make you any sticker you want, also believe that is who has made the stickers steve was giving out. Techforce is a Partner on this site and you can visit his subforums here -> http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/201-techforce-services-the-official-decal-of-smd-pcs-too/ or you can go directly to his website here -> http://www.techforcepcservices.com/smd.htm Also every unit DD-1 and CC-1 is hand signed on the back of the unit under the rubber (hehehehe i said rubbber), He also signs the owners manual books on the inside too. So you should have no problem with it coming signed

From the little research I did quick, yes a 3157 bulb will fit, they have a differnt notch but from what others said it will work. However since the LED bulbs take less amperage vs the stock halogens bulbs, your blinks may blink faster, but this may not always be true on all vehicles. taken from post number 3 here -> http://www.tbssowners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13266 also seen simular info on a few other sites saying the 3157s will fit the 3757 slot, but a 3757 will not fit a 3157 slot.also found this cross reference guide on superbrightleds. --->>> http://www.superbrightleds.com/bulb_cross.php

Kinda sorta correct. Most legit companies ratings are for linear travel, meaning the max travel of its forward stroke without having the coil leave the gap or rub, keeping the entire assembly moving equally. Sure the woofer maybe able to move farther, but its not linear which would cause the coil to jump out of the gap, or rub or something to that nature, which could cause damage to the driver if done enough. So it is basicly usless travel since it is no longer under control at that point. Also seen some companies rate the xmax as both ways (forward and backwards / in and out), but most companies just rate it 1 way such as Fi and AA for example. Pretty sure I said that correct. LOL

Those numbers in red mean nothing to you at all.... Brand C for example that says 92db DOES NOT mean that if you buy two of the woofers you will be hitting 184db loud.. Its is a generated number when woofers are tested for their Thiele Small parameters, which is when the woofer is giving 1watt from 1meter away and not in a enclosure (free air). The only thing that the number tells you is if the driver is more efficient at producing sounds. So in most installs it will take Brand A more power to be as loud as Brand C. Again those numbers have nothing to do with how loud the woofer will be inside your car, or on any sort of SPL Testing meter such as a Term-Lab, Audio Control, or SPL-Lab (which is a bootleg ripoff version of a Term-Lab). The many concern would be if the speaker will handle the potential power your giving it, and the travel of the cone (xmax). The Xmax numbers are usually 1way numbers, so you would multiply those by 2 to get its peak to peak movement while staying linear.

yea, the ccw law is new here in WI. I still need to get mine all situated yet. LoL For now I just open carry which is also legal Nice lil gun tho for sure!!

whoever is listed in the trust fund can file charges and take the executor to court if they have evidence of wrong doings and not following the deceased wishes because these are usually legal law binding contracts drawn up by the deceased layer(s). but really, you need a real layer not some advice from a forum. A good place to start would be the deceased persons layer or whoever made the contract, or will etc. since they would already know the conditions that are to be made.

nice!! great choice in ammo too