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Explain? Instead of making a remark as such, try explaining to him why. Oh wait, you were born an expert. lol I'd like to see why him doing this is any different than a number of people out there doing the same. As long as the thing isn't abused and is recharged properly, the only thing to go will be the stock alt from working harder longer to try to maintain a proper charge on all the batteries. Playing full tilt for a long period of time would be bad, which in case poof. Therefor, a vid is necessary. I might not have been born a expert i sure wasnt born a dumb ass so i know better than to ever do such a thing. Anyone who thinks you can run a system just off batteries alone for a daily application is retarded. It doesnt take much common sense to realize that you when you beat your voltage drops and to recharge what you discharged you are going to need a contest charging source to get your voltage back where it needs to be. It doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure that one out. You're right it doesn't take common sense to know this. It takes KNOWLEDGE. Something he obviously hasn't learned yet, which is why he's here asking this in the first place. And the average (retarded in your opinion) person doesn't even know the difference between charging voltage and resting voltage, hell most people don't even know what an alternator is. He came here asking a legitimate question. There's no need for your shit about hoping he fries his amps.

What is "port area/cube"?

Bought some itunes codes. Great to deal with, responded to emails quickly, and had the codes sent to me asap.

DC, Cadence, DD, Dayton, Tang Band. Probably more.. But I'd still go with the SA... Not sure if the SA-8 v2 is out yet, but if not, I'd wait for that. Not quite.

I'd say definitely try a ported box. The extra time invested in researching, designing, building, and learning would be well worth it imo. Are you going to run the amp to its full potential or not? And you got a budget for subs?

It would help if you specifically addressed all the items on the checklist. He took the time to write it and made it easy for you, and you just basically ignored it. Also, what equipment are you running?

If I understand you correctly, that's 8 ohms per channel, which is probably about 100W per channel. Either wire them like the above diagram with the amp bridged, or you can do it like this on each channel: http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42#results (first one)

Sweet. Have you built the box for the subs yet?

wat

Okay, are they wired like the second option here? And is the amp bridged as per the manual? (looks like you just connect + to left channel and - to right channel)

Have someone set your gains with a DD-1 or o-scope. Or buy one yourself. Though with it all the way up they should still be loud, and this is the problem we're dealing with now. Well which is it?

No. God no. Are your subs dual 4 ohm or dual 2 ohm? How are you setting your gain? Is it set to HP, AP, or LP?

I'd say it's sucking air in and blowing it out So...what amp is this for?

I'm not sure exactly what you're asking for, but if you want a way to find new music, Pandora. I listen to it all the time and just thumbs up songs I like. Then go and buy them after I've heard it enough times that I want it for my car/ipod.

I think the amps are fine...I can't find the SX Pro's anywhere. Where were you planning on getting them and how much? Also, out of curiosity, why do you say 34-38Hz?

Shit I did the same thing a few years ago, but to my thumbnail lol. My other hand was holding up the bike, and when my thumb got stuck, I panicked and tried to pull the chain up with that hand, so the bike fell over and made it worse. I had a big ass purple spot under my nail for about a year.

1. You already have "too much power" 2. You'll have a higher impedance. Power per sub should be ABOUT the same, so long as you wire them in parallel like they are now. 3. You can always lower the gain. I think you'd be happier if you tried 3 sa-8's tuned to about 33 hz. I'd at least try it before you go cutting up your truck. Out of curiosity, what's your box volume, and how much port?

Your only options are really .67 and 2.67. 6 ohms too but that's kinda high. You wanna keep the voice coils wired together the same way on all 3 subs, otherwise they will get unequal amounts of power.

Do it for free, and teach him how to do it on his own in the process

You NEED a crossover for the tweets at least... It's not about getting a "great freq," it's about filtering out unwanted frequencies. You can and probably will damage the tweeters if you don't get one. The mids may be okay without, but they probably won't sound so nice. And an EQ won't solve the problem at all.

Yes you can drop the seleniums down to 4 ohms just run pos to pos and neg to neg on each speaker terminal and then from one of the speakers run pos to neg on the amp so i reads them at 4 ohms. As for the tweets if those are 8 ohms as well I believe you can do the same and bring them down to 4 ohms. If you want woofers on right channel and tweeters on the left... If anything I'd do the opposite, probably better to have more power on mids than more power on highs. But in any case you'll still need a way of filtering the frequencies, whether it's through your head unit or some kind of active crossover. Though I think you'd be much happier if you just got a 4channel amp and set the crossovers on there.

If you only have 2 of each, you can wire them down to 8 ohms per channel. How do you plan on hooking the woofers and tweeters on a 2 channel? Do you have some kind of crossover?

He probably just doesn't want to admit he wasted so much money on the install. And I know that feeling lol. But you gotta learn somehow. No one's addressed the clipping issue yet so... He either needs to get a DD-1 or have a reputable shop tune his amp for him. The remote may still indicate clipping, but at least you'll know it's not. Still definitely want to replace that 4 gauge. I hope for now it's at least fused properly...

I know better than to run that amp and subs with a stock alt and battery with 4 gauge wire. Don't worry about that. I'm not a complete idiot haha. You didn't seem to know that in the first post. And it's more likely 2200W, seeing as the type X's are dual 4 ohm... Unless it's wired to 1 ohm bridged, then we have bigger problems.