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That would work, but if it's a long enough run, it'd be easier to just use a regular aux to RCA converter, then run an RCA cable, and use y-splitters from there.

Y-splitters.

To where are you trying to upload them?

Good luck finding an SMD... Unless you plan on waiting for the new one to come out.

No problem man. I'll send it as soon as I'm done. Something I just realized... If you're gonna be using screws or nails to hold it together, they're gonna go right through the side into the holes for the woofers. Might want to revise it so the baffles are sitting on top of the side pieces... or you could probably just glue and clamp it. Okay, so for this, we're just gonna be working with the outside "shell" -- just the outer dimensions. To better understand why it's a bit complicated, this picture shows the blue as pieces that we "know" the dimensions of. The red pieces more or less depend on that 45° piece (we could calculate them with some trig, but this way is easier). So, for now, these are the only two pieces we can place. Start with this. Now, make a big square (or any shape really) where the back wall will be. This will become relevant later. Now, make a 13" vertical line, and a 12" horizonta linel (red axis) at right angles to each other, like so. You can do this anywhere on the "wall." Now go to Tools > Protractor. Click once on the bottom of the vertical line. Then bring your mouse down. You should see a dotted blue line indicating you're following the blue axis. Click one more time. Now move your mouse to the left. Adjust the position of your mouse until it says "Angle: 45.0" at the bottom right (or you can just type 45 and hit enter). Click one more time when you're at 45 degrees. It should now look like this. Now click on the line tool. Then click on the bottom of the vertical line to start your horizontal line. Move your mouse down and to the left on the dashed line. Next to your cursor, it should say "On Line." Now type in "13" and hit enter. It should have made a line that's 13" long. Now you can delete the dashed line. Now also draw a short line (any length really) going to the right, coming from the front piece (you'll see in the picture). Make sure it's on the red axis. Now select the group of 3 lines that are on the "wall." If you don't know how to do that, click the select tool and draw a box around them. Now click the move tool. Click and hold the lowest part of the diagonal line, and drag it to the short line you just drew. Then draw a vertical line from what will be the bottom back of the box, going upward. Just make sure it's taller than the rest. Should look like this now. Now select the 3 lines you selected in the previous step. Click the move tool again. This time, click and hold the top right of the group. Drag it over to the right (on the red axis) until you reach the vertical line. You can delete the "excess" part that line now. And there's your basic shape. of the box. You can also delete the rest of the square now. Now you can use the push/pull tool to make it an actual box. From there, you can draw in the pieces of wood and whatnot. I know there was a lot of pictures. I tried to keep them down to a minimum, but I also wanted to make sure you fully understood each step.

I could just email you the design if you would prefer to make it easier on yourself. But I assume you want to actually learn how to do this?

I meant built in sketchup. And just for your information, given those dimensions, the overall height comes out to be just over 3 feet (not sure if that matters). Depends on where you want to tune, but from my calculations, if you make the very top exactly 12" in depth, and then follow the rest of your dimensions, that'll put you at a good volume for SA-12's. With a 4.5" wide by 25" long port, you get about 33hz with a net volume of 3.78 cuft. As far as making the slanted baffle, it's kind of complicated, unless you do some math first. But I'll take some more screenshots to try to show you how to do it.

You mean you want the slanted baffle to be 13x13 right? Show me exactly what you have built already, and I'll show you how to do it... Do you want it to be 45°?

Contact Obsidian and see if you can order some different color dustcaps. I know I've seen the logos in white, blue, and a couple other colors. You can try painting the dustcaps, but that might not end up looking very nice.

I know that feel bro. I edited my post to avoid any uncertainty in the units sketchup provides.

What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height? take the area of the base (or in this case the side) and multiply it by the height (width in this case) in inches, save the conversion to cuft at the very end, till then, its easiest to keep it all in inches.... The area is given in square feet, not square inches (at least for me). So keeping it in inches till the end would involve converting to square inches, and then converting to cubic feet at the very end, rather than just converting inches to feet once. Also, calm the fuck down. There's no reason to calculate it manually, when you have a tool like sketchup, that's just a stupid waste of time. And it works just fine, you're taking the inside volume of the box, no need to take wood thickness into account... Just quit running your mouth, you're making yourself look like an idiot.

What do you mean "tell them" to multiply your area by height?

Okay here's how you can calculate volume in sketchup: Here's the box with the side off. I basically just used random dimensions for height. Now, delete the port so you're left with just the back wall. Select the back wall. Right click on it and go to area > selection. Now, the area may be given in square inches or square feet. If it's given in square feet, then multiply by 144 to get square inches. Let's say you were given 4.8 square feet. Multiplying by 144 gives you 691.2 square inches. Record this number. Measure the inside width of the box. If you're using 13" as the width, then it'll be 11.5". Record this number Now just multiply the two numbers you recorded. So in our example, you have 691.2*11.5=7948.8. This is your area in cubic inches. Divide by 1728 to get cubic feet (in our case, you get 4.6). This is your GROSS volume. You can plug this in to torres, and then plug your port dimensions and woofer/bracing displacement, and it'll calculate the rest for you. Hope this helps.

Yeah, it'd be easier, but cost a bit more. The cap and inductor setup is for 4 ohms, so you'd only have to buy a pair of each. Edit: plus doing it yourself is hella funner. Why are you in this hobby if you like to take the easy way out?

http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=266-474 ???? You would need to buy 4 of those, because each one needs to be 8 ohms. You could use these http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=027-425 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-806 Hooked up like this Of course, instead of one speaker on the right, you'd have 2 in parallel. Here's the calculator I used http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/crosscalc.asp#ccc

Bingo bango. So what is it related to then, cone area?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39895_Polk-Audio-PA-D5000.5-PAD5000.5.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43359_JBL-GTO-5EZ.html http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34756_Rockford-Fosgate-P1000X5D.html http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/zed-audio-leviathan-iii-6-channel-amplifier.html (with one pair of channels bridged) There was also JL and Kicker, kinda pricey though. Just leave that center channel unhooked or something. Music ain't recorded in surround.

lolomgwtgdairyqueenbbq I noticed that too. Was looking for the one from XS about how many batteries you need and whatnot.

I hate when people talk about fast food jobs like it's below them... It's a job. You get money, you get experience, you get a chance to meet people, hell you even get free food. Sure it's boring and you have to deal with annoying customers, but that's how you learn and grow. Besides, you can't expect to get your dream job while you're still in high school. If you want to try to volunteer to get some experience, that's cool and a pretty good idea. Just remember there's no such thing as a bad job. Every job has something to offer.

To be honest, I haven't really seen anything that proves you know what you're doing any more than Joe. Not hating on you or anything, just trying to be fair...

I would look into the sundown E and SA series, Skar IVX or VVX, and obsidian 15's (18's maybe...)

Makes sense. Long as you know your measurements are accurate, that's all that matters. Now as far as subs go... How much power do you plan on running? (What electrical upgrades are you willing to do?)

I could be wrong, but that looks like A LOT less than 12 cubes to me... If you're only talking about that dip in the back.

Is it like this? I'm not saying kicker is necessarily bad, but I definitely wouldn't consider them to be bang for buck subs.

Not sure I follow the whole "dip" thing... Are you talking about the spare tire well? And you can't really use it as the box itself. You would have to make a fiberglass mold of it and use that as the box. 12.7 cuft.? You might be able to fit a couple 18's in that space... At least some 15's.