sprkn_ranger

i was actually thinking the aq 750 would be a good match for that sub at 1 ohm i think Yea 750 is a good amount for a level 2. Mine does great on about 700 (DC 1.2k @ 2ohms) could probably put a little more to it, but for daily, it is plenty.

Harbor freight or an auto parts store will have finer grit.

Well the terminals on the mono amp act as just one terminal. So both the positives are on the same lead, it's just for wiring convenience.

Should be a 1ohm load.

Shit I would go as far as finishing with at least a 600 grit. If your gonna do it, may as well do it right.

I'm not sure if it works on plywood or not, but I know on hardwoods, you can wipe the wood with a damp cloth to lift the grain before sanding and it helps get a really smooth finish.

I didn't know this, I have my amp directly to the rear battery, but my amp has a fuse. Should I still fuse it for safety? The whole point of fusing is to protect the wire from shorting out and catching on fire and burning your car down (or the house if the car is in the garage!) so any positive lead coming off of any battery needs to be fused according to the wires rating. And if you have a dist block, the smaller wires coming out need to be fused because they have a smaller amperage capacity than the larger wire and won't pop the larger wire's fuse (assuming its fused properly)

Tuned in

I'd try and get a little bit more net volume if you have the room. Shoot for at least the 5.6, maybe even a lil larger like 5.8-6.0. Edit- Just looked at your max dimensions, and you are pretty much at the largest box you can get with joex's design unless you are willing to go a little higher on the height. Or you can use aero ports to save a little more volume.

I'm not 100% sure about this, but I'm pretty sure that those full size vans are built on the full size truck chassis. So you might be able to use a lift for whatever the corresponding trucks chassis is. If not you will probobly have to have it custom made.

Well first of all, I'm not familiar with those specific drivers, so I really couldn't tell you if joex's design is on point, however, it does look to be on point within specs. And when I say properly designed, I mean an enclosure that suits your drivers vehicle. For example, if you have an SUV, generally best results come from having your subs up, and port firing back towards the hatch. Or in a trunk car, subs and port both facing rear, or forward sealed off work well. And when I say properly built, I'm talking about a good solid made box with proper bracing, made out of 3/4" mdf or 13 ply Baltic birch (not the home depot crap) and sealed well with no air leaks. Hope this helps man

Yea I'd say lift it and give it the "rugged, I'm gonna eat your baby" look

It would be a shame to invert that dd with the sexy carbon fiber cone and dustcap!

It's a myth that a sealed box produces "quicker" or "tighter" bass. A properly designed and built ported box will do just fine with any music and will give you more output than a sealed box can give you.

How much room do you have to work with Ken? Maybe an aero port to save volume?

Here ya go...

Hahaha how much for cooccckkk??

No problem dude

Yea, then you just need a fuse after the dist block where it drops from 1/0 to 4awg. Once you add the second battery, put a fuse as close to the second battery as you can and you will be good.

The only one you missing is the one after your second dist block where the wire drops from 1/0-4awg. That is assuming you have 1/0 from the front batt to your first dist block. When you drop wire size, you need to fuse cause the smaller wire won't pop the larger wire's fuse before it overheats and melts/cathes fire.

The port wall running from front to back is 15 3/4" long, and the one running from left to right is 13".

Do it like this if you can: BATT----FUSE------------------DIST BLOCK------------------FUSE----BATT And if the wires coming out of the dist block are a smaller gauge then fuse those wires according to their amperage rating as close to the dist block as possible. Edit- So if the main wire between batterys is 1/0 OFC then it should be fused to around 280-300 for the two fuses close to the batterys. And if you end up having 4awg coming out of the dist block, then that wire should be fused to about 100-125 as close to the dist block as possible.

LOL It's the thought that counts, right??

Here's a quick sketchup I came up with using orionstang's measurements:

Ahh gotcha makes sense now.