mrd6

Not necessarily...rise is frequency dependent. A 3.5k per xl could be too much. I've seen a few blow on similar power.

Very likely...but also a 3.5k per xl is pushing it a bit. Ypu could just be reaching thermal limits of the subs with clean power

In all likelihood yes...but there's still always that chance it wont

You can get nsv3s or team subs now, you just have to know the right people

Man...this thread... Let's sum it up, AMM-1 is not the only way you can get reasonably accurate power results. Using a scope with true rms clamps and meters will get you there. That being said, the AMM-1 takes alot of the work and math out of it for those who could not do it otherwise. It's a tool, like any other tools, there is always another way. If you use a jig saw to make your sub cut outs why buy a router and circle jig? Because it is easier to get good results. But that doesn't mean the guy who uses the jig saw is suddenly doing it wrong. The same logic can be applied to this situation. Clamping with the right tools and knowhow will give you accurate results. Im sure this is why Taylor and that sinterman dude as well as myself are frustrated after reading through here and watching the vid, since it is suggesting that clamping will never be accurate which is really not the case. I think the AMM-1 is an awesome tool but it's just kinda shitty to start misleading the general audio community for a marketing campaign...intentional or not, it's happening

That all im saying, people keep recommending those calculators, but give no additional explanation to help the OP. In reality, the "recommended" port area is almost never feasible or even necessarily the loudest or best sounding for a given scenario. So in the end, how is it even helpful? I didn't elaborate because I didn't think to because I'm doing other things as well. But asking usually gets a more detailed answer. And I trust that you've built boxes with the recommended port area and then built the same box with less port area in order to test these calculators and have some evidence for your claim? The reason I ask is that I've had a lot of success using the correct port area, so I'm wondering what sort of scenario you're talking about. Some times yes. Ive shrank port area before, kept tuning and box volume the same and gained on the meter. But other times, ive had better results with more port area. In my experience it is trial and error, rather than make the port as large as you possibly can as the calculator suggests. That's the part of this whole theory that I have a problem with ya know? One scenario where this might hold true is where your port requires alot of 180 degree turns to get to proper length with a large port area. In some situations you'll be louder with a straight port with no turns that has less port area. But, so back to the OPs question...what would you recommend you do port wise using that calculator for his situation?

Right?! They look awesome painted up nicely too.

That all im saying, people keep recommending those calculators, but give no additional explanation to help the OP. In reality, the "recommended" port area is almost never feasible or even necessarily the loudest or best sounding for a given scenario. So in the end, how is it even helpful?

LOL okay so with those calculators say we are tuning to 30hz...we need about a 12" diameter port....with a 5 cube box that port needs to be 60 inches long to get to a 30hz tuning... Do you really think those calculators are the answers to every box building scenario?

^Not a typo, custom metal flared ports. I'll be using a few in my 6th. I think the 9 will work just fine for you OP.

^hahaha

^you shouldnt have any problem selling if you go that route. I'll be looking for a used one for a friends build here soon actuall.

No Shit? Well that's kinda a bumber

I am pretty sure it is variable UP TO 8v like you said. I can't imagine it would be hard set to output an 8v signal no matter what, wouldnt make any sense...

^Yessir, if it could play up to say 400-500ish that would be perfect for a project I have coming up

So will this be a true subwoofer or could it be used as a midbass in an ib door type install?

is this the one that will get all the shakes?

And do the big three when you swap out batteries

If the same stock battery has died on ypu 20+ times in the past year, than that's where I would start by replacibg it with a nice agm. See where things are at after that and go from there

been happening to me on and off this past week or so too

^Was just thinking that. Hope you get it worked out Steve, been looking forward to seeing some builds with those v2s

See my above post lol....yes they will love the 5k

I mean, if they are holding up fine on the 3500 now, don't get warm, and mechanically stay under control then yeah probably. A buddy of mine has done three different builds with two on 5k and they all get nasty and are holding up great. I plan to run a 3k at .5 to each one of mine....

Thats to be expected unless you are giving it a crazy amount of power. Most of those people are playing below tuning. Don't worry so much about how much your subs move...doesnt usually correlate all that much to output anyways... How much port area?

Well, first off, you wont be seeing anything close to 10k...sounds like you need to do some more research to understand how running at .5 and imp rise etc works with amps? But anyways, with that power and a 240 amp alt, 2 d3100s would be a safe minimum. More batts of course will be better.