mrd6

I think there are alot of us here lol

Lvl 5 has much greater motor force than xl meaning you can achieve a desired sealed resonance in a smaller airspace

Your sig says 2012 Psychlone trunk champ so I believe you when you say you know what you are doing? Even though your original post doesn't really suggest so lol. But to answer your questions, yes dc amps generally do well when wired down with proper electrical by those with the experience to do so. They are strong well built amps. And with lvl4 coils on the 3 motor I would bet they could take that power just fine. Put up a build for it if you stick around here and welcome to SMD!

lol at this fail post :-0 Haha this! Telling someone no vs threads than saying they should get another 8 instead of the ones mentioned lol. But to the OP, I think I have heard ma is more daily sq based while the vvx is better for higher output goals? Could be totally off base here tho hopefully someone with more experience with the products can help you out

If they perform as well as they look you can count me in for a few of these in a box with lots of plexi and mirrors!

Bear with me here If i use sub terminology wrong but hopefully this makes sense: To deal with the voice coil size/suspension travel problem, why not design some kind of tapered coil former? Basically, you have the former for the size for your 3 inch coil to get your thermal power handling up and then taper it in above that to be thinner where the spiders attach giving them more space to be longer and allow for more travel? Granted, I imagine this would increase the mounting depth quite a bit and require many more custom tooled parts but, could it be worth it? Has this been done before?

the internet: you can't post anything on the internet that's not true

i see two of these 18s in a big ol 6th order in my near future...can you say hurricane winds?

So you are running an saz2500 at 2 ohm nominal with a 270 amp alt and 3400 under the hood? I can guarantee you, that will be plenty of electrical then. If nothing is done incorrectly and your wiring is good, you should have zero voltage drop or close to it.

You should be fine with what you have already assuming your wiring is up to par and you dont push your amp into clipping or run less than 1ohm

Did you scope the amp outputs at both matched levels? I wonder if maybe the second time you pushed into clipping a bit easier and thats why it was louder? Ninja'd on the not your test part lol never mind haha

looks legit... did you ever find the problem? haha now thats a new one to me at least

I think this is going to depend alot on where he tunes to and goals for the set-up...need more info OP

I would just start with rms and go from there. It is going to be completely application dependent.

Wait for a rep to answer for sure but If you are trying to reduce flex and panel vibrations then this is probably not the best use of money for that purpose.

its awesome, didnt look like b-stock to me

you might be hard clipping them, i doubt you are bottoming them out, what does your voltage look like when this is happening? edit: just noticed you're in the northwest, where at?

Great video, liked the moving sub visual as the ac voltage scrolled, I will be showing this to people from now on when trying to explain clipping to them instead of ust describing it with my funky hand motions lol. I would think it could be improved however, by taking out the line at 1:42 where it says the sub will try to play that loud even if the amp cant keep up...the sub isnt trying to outdo the amp, the wording could be confusing there.

Unless you are anticipating some extreme flex you are trying to deal with I would just buy stinger roadkill expert. Comes in the same size (or similar size sheets) 36 sqft for $120. And it has a thicker foil layer. I would bet for your dads application he would not be able to tell the difference between the two and the stinger is cheaper. Edit: the stinger might even reduce flex better since it has a thicker foil layer, I really don't know how those properties work exactly

That is what he means, you arent going to get a good response with what you posted. No vs threads are allowed (which is better this or that), especially in someone else's thread about their own products. If you want you could probably start a new thread giving details about your setup with reasons why you are considering each sub and ask for some input on which would work better for your specific application. Even then, you would be dangerously close to a vs thread.

So if that 2.1millimeters is correct its probably a 80mil product which is like second skin damp pro i believe. If it is reasonable priced and has a 6+mil foil with butyl backing its probably a solid product

there is a difference between milimeters and mils second skin is 60 mils 60 millimeters is over 2 inches lol Edit: 1millimieter = 39.3700787 mils

strapped at .5 daily is asking for trouble haha props if you can pull it off though

Definitely no audible difference except that you could be louder with better head room and dynamics wired to 1 ohm than 2

1997 Isuzu Rodeo Dead Alt 1 D2700 and 1 XP3000 1 DD ZSE 2 18" xls C-pillar wall tuned to 29 151.5 @ 35hz sealed on dash 152.8 driver's window open 33-35hz