412 CVX

That's where it's supposed to go.

I'm pretty sure that audioque amp will do rated power.

I checked orion's website and they recommend 3 cubic feet of airspace for each sub. since you have two, you would need 6 cubic feet AFTER displacements. you don't even have 6 cubic feet BEFORE displacements, therefore you do not have enough airspace to run your 2 15's in a ported box.

http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Amplifiers/Hifonics-Brutus-BRZ1700.1D-1700-Watt-RMS-Class-D-Mono-Block-Amplifier-Car-Amp/BRZ1700.1D.aspx

That's just a myth in my opinion. Either box can have either quality, and in some cases, both qualities. if that makes any sense. Ported boxes are undoubtedly louder than sealed. how much louder depends on a lot of factors, but to generalize, a lot of the times a ported box with one sub will be just as loud to the ear as 2 in a sealed box. sealed boxes do have their place. but i think people get too caught up in the idea that sealed boxes sound better and ported boxes sound sloppy, which, frankly, isn't true. ported boxes can sound great if built right. they can keep up with heavy metal drums and still kill the low notes in hip hop/rap music. i'd argue to say that 90% of how a subwoofer sounds comes down to the box it's in.

You can wire the subs in parallel to get 1 ohm which will match up nicely with the amp.

you're still working on that? shiiiit can't wait to see it

thousand bucks for shipping? damn

ok thanks i will go with a sealed box then. actually i'd save your money on equipment and build a ported box for one sub. should get just as loud as the sealed box. shoot me a PM if you have any questions or need a design.

what size and how many subs are you looking for? they need to be able to wire down to 1 ohm if you want the full 1200 watts out of this amp. also i would advise doing the big 3 upgrade under the hood, just to make sure your car's electrical can handle the power this amp will draw.

dbl post...

the port length includes the part that's external, you're just telling the program how much of the 24" port is external... the holes for the subs can't be that big. you have to account for the outer mounting ring which adds approximately .75" to the diameter of the sub (the actual number should be listed on DC's site) your output is going to suck if the box is tuned to 28 hz. you don't need to tune THAT low unless this is a home theater box. 30-35 hz should be good for daily and still drop lows it looks like there's 3 common port walls based on the sketchup model, but the port width needs to be 36.5" width. If you're running 4500 watts to these subs i sure as hell hope you've got good electrical and you tune the system right. i'm not even sure they can take a 4500 lastly, since you're running so much power to the subs, you at least need to double up on the baffle, and some bracing wouldn't hurt either.

you can do better for that money. http://www.audioque.com/AQ1200D-Amplifier_p_30.html

even if it's a common chamber.

i don't think you have enough room to run 2 15's. you've got a little more than 5 cubes before any displacements. and displacements will take up about 2 cubes give or take. that leaves you with 2 cubes per sub in the best case scenario.

more pics

if a sub requires 1 cubic foot ported, then two would require 2 cubic feet ported.

how does the P2 stack up against the: re rex 8 ($50) kicker comp 8 (2 for $100) infinity reference (2 for $120) kicker cvt ($75) mtx rts8 ($65) RF p1 ($60) or the polk db8 ($60) and now this turns into a VS. thread.... which as most of us know are no-no's so before this turns into a battle of the brands, just pick the one that has the highest RMS power handling. you're not gonna hear a difference between subs in that price range

Yes I was just designing a 4th order for 8 of em a little bit ago and i'm like there's no way in hell these subs take up 6.4 cubic feet of airspace... Then i looked at the displacement of the SA-10 and i'm like ohhhhhhh

I say 5 per baffle just so everything's identical.

:shok: :shok: wish i lived in Seattle... i would've bought 100 feet of that and ran before this dude came to his senses... DAMN that's a good price

you people worry too much about cancellation. that only tends to be problem when you have really long tunnels with a lot small subs in them. OP give me some dimensions, i'd love to make a sketchup model of this.

I took business law in High school and IIRC, you're technically 21 the day before your birthday.

those look like crap drivers... i'd get some obsidian 18's if you really want the cone area... maybe start out with 2 decent 18's and go from there. you really don't need to do 4 18's to get loud. a couple obsidian 18's on 2k or so would be pretty damned loud.

In that price range you've got very few options and it's not going to matter too much what you get. i would personally go with the kenwood package listed above. the majority of how this thing will sound comes down to the box. if you have a good box design, it will make a cheap product sound top of the line