Sheena

sundown audio NS-1 amp? ;x

whatever, im not getting into this.. comparing vehicle vs vehicle. what works in yours, works in his rite?

the biggest HO alt you can fit: $4-700 subs: $4-800 each wire: $2-300 batts: $2-400 ea amps: $5-800 super rough estimates, but all of the figures are for well known, good brands.

where are you pulling your numbers from?? you dont need a 10k watt system a well i had less then 5k rms to 4 15s and was doing a 153 at 29hz and it took your breath away, hell it almost made my buddy shit himself like straight up he had run inside go shit.... and before that i had 2 15s on 2 alpine 1000 watters and was up in the 150s was at 42hz but still did some damage since he said hes not doing comps, i would assume hes not going to drive around shooting tones.... if i remember correctly, getting louder on music is much harder than on tones..

firstly whats your budget.. cause we're talkin $700 for ONE sub right now

to lose breath is like mid 150s or higher imo. ive never experienced 150s or anything near it, but from what i read/gather its usually around a 157 that does it. also your looking at like 2-4 subs, not just 1. something like 2-3 dc level 5 18s or 4 xl m2 15s.. but something around like 10k+ watts. sundowns Z series is quite nice, no idea on the incriminator audio situation though as they arent often used on this site

for 10 grand im sure someone can make you hit mid 50s :]

and then take 4 weeks to get your alt... hope you realize other places take much longer. but many factors come in to making alts Tebo. your 4 weeks may take him 2 days. your alt is not his alt.

this is where my knowledge stops, but i think the next step besides a new alt is something like a batt isolator kit. could be wrong.

okay for 5 thousand watts rms, i think your past the "blasting on occasions" part. sure it will work with a HO alt and a d3100 under the hood.. but enjoy your 20-30 seconds of "blasting" for a little car i would imagine that they would offer somewhere around a 200 amp alt in your price range. since you can fit a D3100 under the hood, i think a D3100 in the back and 2 runs of 1/0 pos and 2 runs of 1/0 neg should keep you around the 13V area.

if 450 is your price range i think you should REALLY try out singer alternators. he will email you a quote within 1-2 days and is very reasonable about the price for a unit.

says i have to be a member of CACO to view the anton miller rendering. on another note, these look like they will be some pretty scary things to watch at full power.

yes, usb is the better quality. if you run it through the aux, you have the possibility of adding clipping into your system. and ya your right about the ipod sending data instead of audio signal. the audio signal is processed by the HU

yes, the upgraded DD1 reads over 150 ac volts (which is what your amp outputs) so say if you have like a AQ 20 or whatever the 20k watt AQ amp is, you'd need the upgraded DD1 because the AQ 20 outputs more than 150V

upgraded DD1 just means it handles over 15 thousand watts (150V). i believe the upgraded one does 30kw (300V) pretty sure you dont need the upgraded one though.

upgraded dd1 as in, handling over 150v? pretty sure you have to private message someone somewhere about getting it, as i think you dont just get it from the website

still food for thought and possible solutions to future problems if they arise :]

its cause we love you, and we want you to get back on track with the wall. well thats my reason. imo you could try turning your radio to the off/standby position before turning the car off. because what COULD be happening is this: your car hits the accessory position, sending the signal for the HU to turn on, which pulls for the ipod connection which is interrupted by the car going from accessory to the start position, possibly disrupting the ipod send/receive connection, misinforming the HU that the ipod is ready when in fact it isnt ready to send signal. food for thought?

USB sometimes has an error fully connecting with some ipods, in your case since you unplug it and plug it back in, and everything is fine.. the solution is quite simple. ipod/ipod cord. now if you experience this while listening to the radio, or a CD.. then its time to troubleshoot.

IMO too early to tell.. i know ive had TONS of issues with my itouch 2nd gen and reconnecting/failing to reconnect until i restarted my car in a very specific order.. (resetting itouch, turning car off, plugging in, turning car on) i would say the ipod.. change out the cord and see if it persists. (cords fail quite often) you have pretty much a brand new head unit from what i can remember.

head unit or RCAs really.

where did anyone get 3 15s vs 3 18s from? title = 4 15s first sentence = 4 15s....... 4 15s vs 3 18s........ 4 15s imo. better coil configs, more motor force.. etc etc

Just wanted to come in here and say that Kevin has worked with me step by step in MAKING SURE that i stay with his products. any question i had he replied back to with a helpful answer, and QUICKLY. offered me a great and i mean GREAT deal on my SK-1500.1 shipped FAST and very safe. not a dent on the box at all.

Since this is the information thread, i have two questions, which i find to be important. 1. what do you fuse the SK-1500 with? a 150, or 200? (there is no information that i could find anywhere with the answer) 2. is the "bass knob" a bass boost knob? or a level/gain knob?

the kenwood hu doesnt clip with the sub level at +9 jason even with the deck maxed out, the sub channel still isnt clipping from 0-9. if you dont understand then this: basically hes at full tilt and isnt clipping with his sub at 0. he is still at full tilt and isnt clipping with his sub at 9. shit not loud at 0 shit loud at 9