HatersGonnaHate

NICE! I wish it only took 3 minutes to build a damn box lol

Awesome! Looking forward to see the build man!

Can't wait to see what is hiding up your sleeve man, based on what you've done to the truck, I expect nothing but great things!

Yea, rear deck is the next thing to get deadened lol.

That's great to hear! Indeed, every company does have a bad experience every now and then. Thanks for just stating that, and not bashing the hell out of the company, Ken You won't be disappointed man!

Just talked to Coleman... Found out that this was 60 Mil.... Regardless, it does one hell of a job!

Product: Audio Technix 60 Mil Sound Deadener - B-Stock Manufactured by: Audio Technix Received from: dirtysouth32 I got a full roll of Audio Technix 60 Mil deadener, from Don, that he didn't end up using for the Jeep rebuild. The reason for it being B-Stock, was only due to the wax paper being harder than normal to pull off. That's it. Even then, it wasn't really that tough to pull off, just grab a corner, and separate from the deadener and pull. As of right now, I've only applied it to my trunk lid and can already tell a noticeable difference. My trunk rattle was horrendous, but I've grown accustomed to it for so long, that I didn't really notice it anymore. I had sprayed Great Stuff in all the nooks and crannies of the trunk lid when I first put my system in, but it didn't make much of a difference in eliminating the rattles. The trunk had been previously prepped for putting deadener on, it was just a matter of when I was actually going to buy the deadener. But Don tossed the offer at me and I couldn't refuse. It was extremely easy to apply. Thick, yet flexible enough to form and fit the contours of my trunk lid. The adhesive is very sticky, so it had no problems sticking to the metal. Just had to lay it on and press out all the air bubbles, then continued to lay on strips until it got too hot outside to work. Got about 75% of the trunk lid done, then got my temperature meter and stuck it in the trunk, closed the lid and went inside. Went back out to check on it 2 hours later, only to find that the temperature meter was reading 131 degrees, and there was absolutely no sagging of any of the deadener and none of it had shifted from the places where I applied it to. Next was the driving test. The first thing I noticed was how much cleaner the bass appeared to be. The second thing was the lack of trunk rattle. Drove my normal route, which was about 45 minutes on the road, at various volumes, down bumpy roads and across railroad tracks, and the clarity of the bass stayed the same, and none of the rattles came back. I got to my destination and popped the trunk to see if any of the deadener moved around or started to sag, and the answer is no. Nothing was out of place and it was all still stuck to the trunk lid. On the way home, I had a friend driving beside me while going at full volume and he said that he could tell a difference. He couldn't hear any trunk rattle from outside the car, both driving, and at a stoplight. And he said that he could tell a difference in the quality of bass that was coming from the car. It sounded undistorted. He's ridden in my car before and has been at shows with me and knew how bad the rattle used to be. In my opinion, it's a great product for the money. Does what it's supposed to do and honestly exceeded my expectations. I've talked to Coleman, owner of Audio Technix, and he stands by his product 110%. If you buy his products and just happen to have a problem with it, he will go above and beyond any expectations to make sure that you are satisfied with the end result. I will get videos of end result when I get a free minute to do so, and I will add to this thread if I have any further updates about the product. - Adam

Rooted is the same thing as jailbreaking an iPhone. Pretty much unlocking it to do whatever you want to do with it. Overclocking just means to speed up the processor for faster response and less screen lag. Ninja Ninja Ninja

Root explorer can get you into all the "important" files and all the system files so you can get rid of all the HTC branded stock apps, they usually take up a bunch of space. So do all the carrier (at&t, sprint, verizon, t-mobile) branded apps. Just be careful of what you delete, some of them might kill the phone lol.

34-36 should be good. It'll get loud enough, and will get decently low in the right box. I'd say around 1.2 - 1.5 cubes should be good. But wait for 412CVX to chime in, or PM him and see if he can sketch something up real quick.

I've tuned to 42 before, on my first box... It got plenty loud, but as you said, didn't get real low. I'm right around 35hz and I love it. Plays low and loud enough for me for music daily.

You're not gonna need to use up the entire width for a single 10". Just the height and the depth are the important ones, but since you're going to measure tomorrow, might as well get all 3 For a daily driver that will get loud and play low, I'd say shoot for a tuning point of ~33-36hz. I'm not a box designer, so I can't whip one up for you and guarantee that it's gonna sound good lol.

Yes, if you're firing forward, sealing it off from the trunk will make it sound louder, since it will only be pressurizing the cabin, not the cabin and the trunk. How loud does she want to get? Just a little bit of bump? Or does she want to turn it up and feel it shaking some stuff?

No, you see the change in resistance through the coils. You can see what I'm talking about if you've got a speaker laying around.... Hook up positive and negative leads to the speaker terminals, push down on the cone and watch the ohms rise.

No problem at all. Thank dirtysouth32, he's the one that linked me to them lol.

It's worth the wait. A lot of people that I've run across like it a lot better than the stinger. It's easy on the eyes and you can flush mount it and make it look sexxxxayyyy

I just wanted to say thanks to Hunter for this. Got a relay last night and wired it up this morning. Worked like a charm man

Two 12" level 4's Two 12" XL's DC2K DC5K DC7.5K Shipped to 23464 please

dont mean to jack the thread, but how do you measure resistance in a crossover? do you have to have the speakers attached to it and measure the "amp in" terminals on the xover? That.....I'm not even sure of. Ask Ray is the best bet. I'm in class right now, so I can't research it. Google it and see if you can find anything on it.... Or pm Ray.

Check the resistance on those. Gotta single out every component.

You've got crossovers hooked up?

You checked the resistance of the wires while they were unhooked from the amp, right?

Gottatrace those wires and see what speakers they run to... I chased mine down for a good week for the same problem. Turned out to be a bad crimp

Is it the stock speaker wire, or did you run all new wire?