252chevyboyz

Hey what's up Morrison? I have been trying to find your album over here in Rocky Mount, NC and our Best Buy just up and decided to be closing May 12 so I'm not sure where to get one. Been listening to you for a while and sub'd to you and Steve's channels but playing music off youtube isn't the same as a cd. Anyway the new tricks are awesome. That port is just a torture chamber haha. Keep up the good work with all the tracks and albums man. Much respect goes your way for taking the time to stand out and be a good artist instead of blending with all the other artists. Props to you and your crew, -James

Even though I'm on a limited budget I would happily try to save up a little money to send Decaf's way if he had some of his work on like a personal website or something. Decaf's work was an amazing addition to the community. I hope to see his work around soon. -James

Kranny did make a good point about sanding and wire brushing the grounds. I took the bolts out of my ground location and used the wire brush wheel on a bench grinder and cleaned them up. I also took a flat head that I sharpened on my knife stones and stripped away the paint underneath the head of the bolt then took some Goof Off and Carb Cleaner and cleaned any oily/grimy residue off. The reason I used a "sharpened" flat head was cause I didnt want to scrape any of the paint away outside of that circle so it wouldnt looked all scratched up. @MIke: Did you mean check the voltage coming directly off the Alt while playing full tilt? You are more than likely right about the stock Alt being pushed to its limits -James

Twistedchild420 is indeed a dealer and I'd have to agree DC does make some good subs. I haven't heard the DAD's yet but I'd sure like to hear some in the near future. They sure do look good on video. Tuned in to see what kind of set up you get though. -James

A team kinda has to choose you in a way. If your looking to be on a team hit up the shows and make sure the teams know you are serious about the audio scene and willing to compete. If your not looking to compete in shows and competitions I'd try to find an audio club or try to start one up in your area. Most of the time you will find plenty of people to hang out with and bring up the idea of being in club at car shows, audio competitions, or your local audio shop. Sounds like you might just want a group of people to hang out with and maybe work on a few systems or just chill with other audio enthusiasts and enjoy hearing the systems beat. Are you looking to compete or just chill with other enthusiasts? I hope this will help out a little bit -James

Making a few to sell wouldn't be a bad idea. Some people that dont have the skills you have might wish they had a cover like that. You might could sell LED kits for amps also. The edges looks good in that pic though. I do believe Scott might be right tho cause they really do charge you a lot for internet so the cable must be worth something. I got a feeling we are going to see a decorated box with the fiber optics though. I'm looking forward to see where it is going to end up. I wonder what it would look like in the port of your box pulsing with the beat of the bass? Maybe build a plexi amp rack/stand and light it up with the fiber optics? It would look awesome to have a plexi amp rack/stand to make it look like your amp is floating and maybe put 2 computer fans in the back for cooling? I built an amp stand for my amp out of wood then bed lined it. I got one computer fan on the front for cooling but now that I'm getting ideas in my head for a plexi amp rack/stand I kinda want to build one for myself now haha. You can check my amp stand out in my "garage". -James

Wow man that's sick. You did a great job fitting the plexi to the amp and drilling the holes for the adjustment knobs. Very clean and loving the Leds. Looks like you might have done that before. Keep up the good work with the new supplies man. Ill be tuned in til you use it all up. -James

Defiantly do the plexi amp cover and I'm not too sure what kind of wiring you have on your system but maybe use the 2awg to upgrade the stock wiring up front or maybe use it to upgrade the wiring going to your amp if you are currently using smaller wiring. You could also sell the wiring if you have no use for it. A little extra cash never hurts. Times are hard these days. I def say the fiber optic should be lit up and light up the box or maybe the underneath side of your dash or maybe light up the engine compartment. If you had 0 guage or 1/0 wiring i'd offer you something for it as I am currently looking to do the big 3 on my '97 Tahoe. The 1/2" plexi would be awesome if you could use it to make a viewing window into the back of your box to see the subs while they are in action. You may need 3/4" or 1" to do the but ive never tried it. Maybe build a Plexi battery box for the rear? Just a few ideas haha. -James

This is racking my brain as I am struggling for solutions. How are your grounds run? Do you have any of your audio grounds in the same spot as fuel system or engine grounds? If you do maybe try grounding the system to a totally separate ground location. Something has got to be effecting the ignition system or fuel system causing you to loose fuel pressure or maybe causing your fuel pump to have a shortage of voltage. Do you have a local audio shop that you could take the car to and let them see the problem in person or a local mechanic that you show the problem to and maybe get a diagnosis? Your resting voltage and idle voltage sound good. I believe your car came with a 90amp alt? I know you will see a major difference when you get a HO Alt. It has to be not enough voltage getting to the ignition causing the coils not to fire or not enough voltage getting to the fuel pump causing you to have a shortage of fuel. I hope we can figure this out and get you back up and running. -James

I havent ever experimented with fiber optic but I'm def tuned in to see what comes of all this. Plexi really isn't cheap though and congrats on the nice score. -James

See if you can post up some pics of the voltage on full tilt, just regular idle, and resting voltage. Im really curious as to whats causing this. I'm tuned in til we find a solution. You wont regret upgrading alts I can promise you that. Maybe add a little 20-40 amp hour battery near your amp? that would give a little more reserve. I'll post a link to some small AGM batteries below. http://www.shurikenonline.com/shuriken_products.html -James

Good catch there Skittles. I didnt even think about asking the OP if they were keeping the same box or not. I just assumed when they got new subs then they would build a new box. @hertz: are you keeping the same box or building a new box for the subs your upgrading too? Maybe build another box for your current subs to try and get just a little more out of them? What are some of the specs on your current box? -James

I mentioned lvl 5 because my next build is going to be 2 XL or either lvl 5 15's on 2.5k-3k RMS. Maybe a little under powered but I always got room to add a second amp to the subs though. I also didnt know if the OP was upgrading his amp or not. If he is keeping the same amp the lvl 2's would prolly be a good match to the amp but as you mentioned the Sundown SA subs would be a great option too. @hertz: what is you budget? are you keeping the same amp? do you want to keep running 12's or maybe one 15? -James

2 DC lvl 4's would sound good on that amp I think. You could go with lvl 5's but they would cost just a tad more that the lvl 4's. DC subs will be in my next build. As Andale said the Fi woofers are also a good option. **edit** You could get by with the 12" lvl 3's as they will handle 900RMS. The 12" lvl 2's handle only 600RMS but with a 1000w amp you wouldnt be seeing but maybe 500w per sub. Just depends on the amount of money you might want to spend -James

Hey man sorry to hear your having problems with your system. Will made a good guess and actually made my exact same guess. Only other thing I can think of is the coils on the ignition system might not be able to fire as strong as they should. I'm still really thinking maybe the fuel pump just isn't seeing enough voltage. Is there anyway to get a voltage reading at the front battery and another reading at the back battery while its full tilt? -James

It's not a problem at all man. I'm a pretty level headed and understanding person. Life is too short to get mad or upset over the little things bro. Plus I am planning to stay an active member here in the community as long as the community stays up and running. I knew the amp wasnt the most efficient amp to start with but I just wanted to make sure I was right with the wattage on the amp. I appreciate all the help I have gotten in this community though. There are many great members here and I have learned more about audio from here than I have anywhere else. Anyway I know how people can be on the online communities as I am a Super Mod on Android.net and being voted to be a Mod on droidforums.net but people can be so immature and quick to judge. With android.net being a worldwide community there are a lot of problems that def will keep a moderator busy. Anyway I appreciate all the help everyone has given me here and I will be more than happy to return the favor anytime I can. I'm glad people here in the community are just straight up and honest about the limits of audio equipment. I know these audio companies are bad about putting the Max Wattage instead of RMS wattage just so they can move more products off the shelf. Thanks again everyone, James Horton

I really appreciate the quick answer to my question ya'll and this is just a budget system until I can get enough saved up to buy a decent system. The autotek amp is A/B class so I figured it wouldn't the most efficient but my next will be class D and no less than 1200-1500w RMS. Thinking about going with a Sundown SAZ-2500D or a DC 2K. Any thoughts on these 2 amps? or maybe preferences? I am going to upgrade the system in this order also (electrical, amp, then subs). Also who would go with 4 dc lvl 4 maybe lvl 5 12's and who would go with 2 DC XL 15's? I have narrowed my next system down to these and just looking for opinions and if there is something better plz let me know. The autotek amp I will probably sell in the next couple months hopefully. 300w per chan isn't quite enough for me but I guess it's alright for a budget system. Thanks, James

Thanks for the reply. That is what I was thinking myself. I thought at 14.4V i was seeing maybe 600w off the amp split into 2 channels so it would end up being 300w per chan. Is there anything you can think of improving or changing that might get more out of this amp until I upgrade my system? -James

Hey whats up everyone? I was wondering if some might be able to confirm my RMS wattage as either around 1200w or 600w. I have each sub wired down to 2ohms and the amp says it is 600w x 2ch @ 2ohms and 1200w x 1 chan @ 4ohms. I have only been in audio really deep for about a year now so I am still learning. I havent yet bought a clamp meter so I can find my true RMS but I will have one soon hopefully. As for now I was wondering which it may be 600w or 1200w? I will post a few pics below of how I have everything wired up from the amp to the box and to the back of the subs. I really appreciate any help on this one. My voltage idles at 14.4 and drops to about 13.2 when at full tilt if that helps out any. I am just trying to get the most out of this system as I can because I am saving up to upgrade to a competition worthy system. I am open to any suggestions on changing the wiring or setup. BTW the amp is set to mono and not stereo. Thanks for any help, James

I'm looking at Sundown's, DC's , and now that I've read a little about the Skars i'm considering them. Lvl 5 DC 12's would be nice though. I'd love to end up with 6 of these in my Tahoe haha but my funds stay limited though. I hope you can find the right sub for you and sorry to hear about the last sub getting stolen -James

Not a problem at all. Glad I could answer the questions for ya'll and make the post a little more detailed. The people at Autophonics are great about answering any questions you have to ask even over the phone just in case anyone needs to call them. I'll help out my fellow bassheads anytime

I wish I could start up my own shop but my funds just wont allow me haha. Anyway I called the shop and talked to James. He said it's $15.00 per run and as for the time limit I ask is it a 30sec run or are you able to test? He said "The meter is yours until you peak" so there isn't really a time limit on it. You can use it until you find your peak DB. I also ask him if it was an SPL meter or term lab and he said "It is a term lab and we are hoping to get an SPL meter soon" then I said the sign on the door says SPL meter and he said "I will have to fix Zee's work and make it read Term Lab". -James

Glad to hear someone will benefit from it If you go to lunch in Rocky Mount I'd recommend Chili's or Applebee's as there arent many great places to eat around here. I will be running my system through the TL here pretty soon probably. Its nothing but 2 12's on a 1200W amp (about 700-750 RMS) but I'm still curious haha. I hope to get the money to upgrade to a competition friendly system here soon though. No problem though man anytime that I find something that may help out the community I try my best to post it up as soon as I can. -James

Hey whats up everyone? I was at my local audio shop today and found out they have a term lab for the public to use. I believe it was $15.00 per run. What do yall think about the price? A little steep or ok? I just figured I would bring this to the attention of the community in case there is anyone here in East NC that would like to test their system on a term lab. I will post the location and name of the shop below. Thanks for looking and hope this can help someone out -James Shop: Autophonics Location: 1894 Sunset Ave. Rocky Mount, NC Phone Number: 252-212-1715

Wow man that looks sharp. Lovin how the lines flow so well on that model Maxima. Also the rims are setting it off