SPL Blazer

if your matching a DC Amp with DC Subs then go ahead and match the amps rated power with your subs rated power. Cause both the DC Amps and DC subs are underrated.

Haven't done a demo vid of my 18" DC XL's yet, so here's one I did last week.

never assume a shop or it's installers know what they are doing. Ask the shop how they set amp gains, if they use an O-Scope I'd trust they did it right, if not I'd be skeptical of how they know the gains were set. Almost every shop in my area has no idea what an O-Scope even is. I've heard of several shops saying they know how to install an amp and set things up, but they just assume turning the gains halfway is good, then they clip the shit out of the subs and blame the owner of the system. I've heard stories about shops putting crumbled up newspaper inside car doors and charging them for Dyna-Mat, drilling holes through floors and not sealing them, and the list goes on.

For daily that tuning is fine, also depends on the music styles you listen to as well. I listen to metal music and prefer it tuned closer to 35 Hz, rap/hip hop is better around 28-30 Hz cause it hits more lows in the music. There's a reason you tune higher for comps.

So it's not designed to burp? I saw a guy come out to a comp last season with a pair of those subs in a wall with a Sundown 4500 to each one, and refused to put it on the meter. Everyone of us were calling him a pussy for it. Why spend that kind of money on a loud sub if you can't do what you want with it?

If the coil is scraping then you might as well throw them out. Your option would be to recone them, but I seriously doubt anyone sells a recone kit for those, and thats not something for a noob to do either.

When you look up the specs on a HU they normally tell you that you can change the colors. If your good with masking and paint, you can also paint the edges of the HU and the trim ring red, that would look great if you can do it. I've seen that done several times at some of my shows.

Depending on your goal with your system, you could go with KnuKonceptz 1/0 CCA wire. It's cheaper and unless your competing you'll never see the difference. Their 1/0 is pretty much the same size as other companies 0/1 wire. CCA wire has about 33% more resistance over pure copper wire, if your doing a car off style competition system then you need to go with the OFC wire, it could get you an extra tenth of a db. if this is just a daily pounding system then go with the cheaper CCA wire. Knu usually sells 20ft runs for $35 on their Ebay store. I have a few runs of their wire in both my vehicles. Used to have Stinger 0/1 wire and swapped to the Knu 1/0 and didn't see any difference in my score, but the Knu wire was a lot cheaper.

The walls I've seen built with the port on the driverside were competing in a format that is sealed and puts the meter on the glass, the ports along the top were competing in USACi where the meter is on the floor and the door open, and port in the middle I've seen more with demo systems and groundpounder systems. If you're building for fun and just demo's I'm sure you can do it whatever way you want.

I've used decks from Alpine, Sony, Kenwood and Pioneer and the only deck's I prefer are the Kenwoods. I think I've had maybe 6 different Kenwoods since I started with car audio. I have 3 I use right now, the Excelon series are the best.

Good point, hadn't even thought about the weak points like the knots. It would take a minimum of a gallon of fiberglass resin, and a lot of sq feet of fiberglass mat to seal the inside, never mind what you'd need to seal the gaps between the actual 2x4's......and finding perfectly straight 2x4's will take some time too.

I'm sure it could be done, but to do it so it doesn't leak you'd spend at least double the money to get it done right. Between the fiberglass, the sealer, threaded rod and nuts you'd be spending a lot more money than you would if you just used mdf.

I doubt it's blown, since he said it happens to both subs. And they are in a sealed box, so nothing odd would have been sucked in through a port......done that a few times with plastic shopping bags, lol. I never heard of this type of thing, and it's odd that it's happening to both subs at the same time too.

yeah, put the glue under them and glue them back in place. You might want to place something with a little weight on them to keep the glue and the cone/dustcap tight while the glue hardens overnight.

Gotta look and see if the cone has separated from the basket, or if the dustcap has separated from the cone. Might look to see if the spiders have become loose from the basket too, but thats doubtful. If something is loose it's most likely the dustcap.

If a cone or dustcap has become loose you can usually glue them back on, GOOP works great.

If it's the standard lvl 4's you'd better stick with 2K. I have a pair of 10" lvl 4's with the lvl 5 coils and run them on 3K daily, and ran them off a 5K daily for a couple months too. Handled both fine, until I did an extended demo @ 30 Hz, the 10's just didn't handle the excursion at that low of a freq and the surround tore.

I've never seen or heard of this before, might wanna start by pulling them out of the box and inspect the spiders and the cones. If it's a sealed box you shouldn't be hearing any air escaping. Possible that the cone/dustcaps got loose.

Does your Silverado have a seat in the back? I know some companies have made a prefab box to fit under the seat, if they can make one maybe you can too and have it under the seat. I saw one design where it was under the back seat with the port firing forward, I think the sub was firing up into the seat. Saw another one with the sub built into the center console firing into the transmission hump, not sure where the port was though.

Definitely sounds like one sub is wired wrong.

I've always hated downfire designs, haven't heard one that I thought sounded good. If you have to use a downfire then start off by giving yourself at least 2" between the face and the floor, but more would be better.

Is it including the displacement for the port and sub?

It's the 2.25 + port displacement + driver displacement and that's the internal volume of the box not the external. lol, I was thinking the same thing when I read the 1st post. I had a 12" Kicker CVX several years ago and that also called for a 2.25 cu ft enclosure for their "Deep Bass/SPL" box. Like Joe said, don't forget to figure in the correct size port you'll need, plus the displacement of the sub when figuring in the port. Pretty sure it was over 3 cubes when all this was figured in, unfortunately I don't keep old specs for boxes I build.

Either one will work fine, the Kinetik will be a little cheaper though.

It'll handle as many speakers as you can wire to it. The only factor you have to watch is the Ohm load you have them wired to. thats why I am planning on 8 sets of speakers, each is 4 Ω. Wiring that many I can take 4 sets at 4Ω each and wire two of them to 2 ohms, then back to 4 ohms when I add the other pair. So I'll have 4 speakers per channel and that amp will be fine with it.