Joe X

Red - 4 solobaric S15C (round solobaric from mid 2000s) in a 6 cubic feet net sealed box, D4 subs coils in series subs in parallel. Final load 2 ohm. Yellow - 2 JL Audio 12W7 in a 4.5 cubic feet net box tuned to 33Hz 3 ohms single coli subs wired in parallel. Final load 1.5 ohm. For a constant power amplifier such as Rockford Fosgate HDCP amplifiers: For a non constant power amplifier the lower final load option will be at an advantage. As ti stands the 12W7s are louder in the relevant range, say 28-45Hz.

Those subs indeed need their space 4 to 6 cubic feet per driver is what they usually are given for ported use, if will use those in your room rather than a car tuning should be in the mid 20s not in the mid 30 which is what is given for car use. It all depends on the application, you will need to be more specific on your dimensions, music you play, or movies or whatever you are doing with them, how are you powering the subs, etc.

Port area depends on the driver itself, box size, power and tuning frequency. No params are available for the drivers SO just guessing, you were doing 26 square inches per driver last time, with the 12" port it's like 28 square inches so you know maybe, flares help a lot, what's too large is the box size, more than 2.5 net per driver, on a lot of power those drivers are going to bottom out below tuning very likely. Also I would do double layer in the baffle and probably the rear wall and a bunch of cross braces between them.

The SALT 4k can put out 6106W uncertified @14.3V so let's say 3000W per driver: Box: tuning is 32Hz net volume 2cubic feet per driver. As you can see you hit Xmax at 23Hz, going over Xmax produces distortion and likely coil heating.

As before I don't have enough information to tell your current box is the problem, make sure you read and check all the causes for lack off bass I left you. Also I recommend building a cardboard test box to make sure the real box can get inside your trunk once built. Best of luck.

100% you need your subsonic engaged, the SALT 4K will put out more than 4K, not only will protect your subs but can also reduce the amp operating temperature among other benefits. The frequency you set your subsonic filter is calculated as 0.75 x tuning frequency of the box.

You cannot do the test with subs because the impedance of subs changes with the signal frequency, You should get a clamp, there are some inexpensive alternatives. You can calculate with it along with the voltage (measured under load at amp terminals) input power at whatever level you are playing. Bottom line you are not going to get accurate numbers the way you measure, assuming a 13.8V input voltage under load and your fuse rating P=13.8 x 80 = 1104 Watts input power so that the fuse won't blow.

You need a clamp to see the actual current going through the cable that has the 80A fuse. To reach rated RMS power you need to feed a sinewave and you set the amp gain to get it's output to the threshold of clipping ( scope or DD-1 needed to measure) and using a resistive load. you measure the voltage across the power terminals of the amp as you do the test not when there is no load and the current with the clamp and do the math with that data. Most systems people have run like yours, far below their theoretical limits.

You can absolutely use it and it will work but likely a modern car DSP will do everything better and you can control it wireless from your smartphone and with some models you can stream directly to it. Those were pretty rare, if in good condition it may still be worth a lot to some people.

The worst case scenario is that your rear battery is discharged, malfunctioning or whatever and you want the alternator to be able to source the full current draw of that amp at full output so you want two 1/0 wires going back there and two 1/0 ground wires to ground since that's the amount of terminals the amp has on it.

To answer the question anyways you have to take a look at hybrid Audio's own website: Their solution to a 3 way setup is adding the U2x-W to the passive crossovers you already own like it shows in the picture above, you can see then that the crossover frequencies are as follow: mid woofer 500Hz and below. mid 500 to 5200Hz tweeter 5200Hz and up The link to the passive crossovers on the left (that make the setup 3 way passive) is as follows: https://hybrid.audio/product/unity-u61-2v2/ From this I already can tell you that the B2 crossovers are not what you are looking for as the crossover frequency between mid and tweeter in those is 3.5 Khz, much lower than what your tweeters are expecting. If you have a 4 channel amp you can implement the 500Hz crossover point with it and in the 500Hz and up channels connect your passive crossovers there to drive the mids and tweeters. Hopefully it makes sense.

Passive crossovers are custom to the drivers they come with, both crossover points and attenuation levels need to match the drivers being used. Wish you luck getting that sounding right.

Bear in mind that lack of bass can come from many causes different than an improperly designed box, some of them are: 1 improperly set subsonic filter on your amp, 2 other amp settings as well. 3 improper setting in your head unit or any signal processors you may have like Eq, DSP, electronic crossover. 4 if you are using a LOC with your stock unit. 5 improper location or orientation of your box. 6 playing improperly recorded music or playing a music type that lack deep bass. 7 sourcing music to your head unit via wire from a phone tablet or other device. 8 using wired bluetooth converter. Again not a complete list: Here is the design: Figure is just an assembly guide:

Alpine is already giving you 1.1 cubes net with 17 square inches of port area PER DRIVER so twice of that for two drivers. Also where are subs and port firing, el camino has a cabin like a single cab truck, those many times use slanted boxes subs forward / port sideways. How do you know that rectangle box is the way to go, sub and port pointing to one side I guess? I say save the fun for after the system is playing nice, if you misjudge what needs to be done you are going to find yourself rebuilding soon enough as it often happens to people.

Nice bass knob upgrade, the limiter is an interesting function, with such analog audio processors it was popular to upgrade op amps to high end ones, unhappily with the use of surface mount chips, its a little more impractical to swap them, still the TL074s it has are decent ones. Let us know how you liked it.

I will need some details about your car and your audio system: 1 what is your vehicle model. 2 maximum dimensions for a box (height,width,depth) 3 what amplifier model you intend to use 4 what music you listen most.

You could post this in your own build thread and follow up as you progress, anyhow, my first feedback would be: Dims for a box in a tahoe were 49 W, 25 H. 29 D without removing the second row, that was enough for 4 15s ported no problem. If you want to get loud cone area is king, more important than any other parameter in your system, once you have the best subs and the box design that fits then you choose amplification and electrical, not before. Besides your system, deadening is most important, at higher power, loses to flex can make you lose any gains highly expensive upgrades could have given you. Also never do any estimates on how loud some equipment will get, if you go to a comp and you saw X equipment doing Y dBs in your same car that means you could possibly get as loud but even then if your install is inferior to the vehicle you saw you will not get anywhere near as loud.

That would never work, a 3" round port has a port area of 7 square inches, they say 30 square inches, you could do 20 square inches at the very leas but 7 is a no go.

Did you talk to the manufacturer of the alternators you intend to purchase?

If you plan to fire the subs (or port) up that is going to turn out bad. Also it's a great idea to build a test fit box but you do it from cardboard as if you have issues you can resize the box relatively easy and it's much lighter. Anyways congrats on the persistence, it's been a while but you keep doing more and more.

Unless you can do the port external to the box you will have to do sealed, your subs driver displacement is 0.15 x2 subs = 0.3 2.3 cubic feet gross - 0.3 = 2 cubic feet net or 1 cubic feet net per driver, what the drivers need SO no airspace available for the port. The minimum port area you need for those subs is 20 square inches per driver so 40 square inches is the minimum port area. So 2 cubic feet net and 40 square inches of port area and a tuning of 36Hz needs a port that is 36.4" in length.

You need a LOC to interface an amplifier with any high level signals, amp, head unit or whatever provides signal except if the amplifier accepts high level signals. Secondly the voltage at the amp power input terminals should stay above 12V at all times, specially when you are playing music loudly. Check you have the above right since having any of those wrong could damage an amp.

Not working with jokers would be a start I guess. You should be more specific on what exactly is your situation.

I guess you like the difficult route, I would get a couple of stock DC audio level 5 12 and a 8K amplifier and that would get crazy loud and pretty simple and fast to get done.

Two SKv2-3500.1D strapped will provide 7000W @ 2ohm minimum stable impedance, you can reach two ohm final with four D4 subs wired in parallel coils wired in series.