Joe X

it's 33 inches.

It can be done as follows with the alternative assembly method: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33 Hz Vb = 1.505 ft^3 External Height = 14.25 in External Width = 21 in External Depth = 18 in Port Width = 1 13/16 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: Front = 18 7/16 x 12 3/4 Front Internal = 16 15/16 x 12 3/4 Back = 21 x 12 3/4 Left & Right Sides: Side 1 = 16 1/2 x 12 3/4 Side 2 = 17 1/4 x 12 3/4 Top & Bottom = 21 x 18 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 11/16 x 12 3/4 Extension = 15 x 12 3/4 Same assembly guide as above:

The cutout diameter is 11" so it fits..tughtly, the outside diameter should be around 12.5" so it also fit.. you will have 1/4" clearance each side..very little, in fact I had to go for the all across Width/height baffle for this reason. Damn, haha so the rubber will fit as well on the box? Also, how would you suggest cutting the port for the box? Being that I have to cut through the double baffle and make a perfect retangle box.. Does the port HAVE to be on the double baffle? Rather not cut my port. I use the following assembly style most of the times: But on 13" is not possible, you would almost cut the baffle in two pieces if you tried.

This box simply can't work with your mayhem 12", this sub needs 1.75-3 cubic feet to work properly.. I could suggest you an enclosure for that sub if you wish.

The cutout diameter is 11" so it fits..tughtly, the outside diameter should be around 12.5" so it also fit.. you will have 1/4" clearance each side..very little, in fact I had to go for the all across Width/height baffle for this reason.

Most DC Audio subs work in below average sized boxes, if fact the Pioneer TS-W3002 is recommended for 1.2 cubic feet ported and still gets real low.

That is correct.

So 32.5 in it is if you wish, the port turns as you can see on the sketchup and it does fit that way, the length of the two pieces of wood needed to make the port is what I left you: L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 11 1/2 Extension = 14 1/4 x 11 1/2 Since you want to take away 1/2 inch the Extension length becomes 13 3/4 inches instead of 14 1/4, the rest of the cut sheet list would remain intact.

I was just thinking what would Torres calculate and comes out very much in line, take a look:

Okay, then you have your length for the port at 33.75 correct to get to that tuning.. Correct? I'll put up on google the cutout sheets I need and put them together make sure they work, on your sketch it's just a tad confusing for me being that the front, and rear are bigger than the sides.. height wise. Sorry if I'm just not reading something right tends to be confusing for me. I am using be baffle all across width/height assembly style (because your box is not tall enough for the other method), when you place the top sheet of the specified dimensions, it becomes perfectly rectangular and air tight.

Right 11.5 in, find this at the bottom: L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 11 1/2 Extension = 14 1/4 x 11 1/2 Calculators have their differences but you are doing a port upwards.

Revised up there for slotted DCL4 12" the double baffle never hurts unless you are much too lazy to cut it.

DC Audio L4 12" slotted port back sub back: Enclosure Specifications: Fb = 33 Hz Vb = 1.508 ft^3 External Height = 13 in External Width = 22 in External Depth = 18.75 in Port Width = 2 in Cut Sheet List: * All Dimensions in Inches. * Wood Thickness is 3/4 for all Parts. External Enclosure Parts: 2 x Front & Back (3 parts) = 22 x 13 Left & Right Sides = 16 1/2 x 11 1/2 Top & Bottom = 22 x 16 1/2 L Port Internal Assembly Parts: Front to Back = 14 1/2 x 11 1/2 Extension = 14 1/4 x 11 1/2

Lots of useful info on building here: http://www.kicker.com/building_enclosures At least go with two dowels top to bottom in the center of width and near the subs, cross brace straight to the bottom through the port where necessary, The port needs bracing as well, you can take advantage of the brace crossing through to bolt it as well. The way you cut the material will determine the amount of wood you will need, get the dims of the sheets available to you and plan your cuts or get help from the seller.

Have fun Hifonics and build it solid with all the bracing shown if possible.

In your boat having the subs aimed skywards won't do any good.

I'll do yours joe because then I can try different setups with the same box (fire up, back, up). I can go higher but not deeper sadly, or else it wont be able to fit in the truck through the door (Truck is new so I don't want to risk messing it up by building inside the truck. And ya I listen mostly to rap so 33hz would probably be best for me! realistic max dimensions would be: 34H x 35W x 20.5D Thanks a lot joe! Ok so updated the design post, 33Hz tuning and within your new dimension limits.

You need about 3.5 cubic feet net internal airspace per sub, that box would fit 2 12" subs much better.

On the front and back pieces you have the same size. Wouldnt the front be a little shorter due to the port being on the bottom? Im goin to stick with this one. Also, if u could do one more sketchup with the center square port would be great. I really do appreciate all the help Joe.. This is just an assembly method difference, Notice that both the rear and front panels are specified to 36 wide and the port window would be cut in the panel, In the sketchup I used an different method of assembly which is simpler but the spec is exactly the same. Let me find some time and I will issue a center square or rectangular port, just note that it will be harder to build, unless you have something obstructing the bottom port will do alright.

The fi SSD 18 would be grat at about $250 each.

Decide what advise you will take and I wil perform the mods, if you listen to rap type of music mainly, I would probably go to 33Hz. A port up / sub front can be done without a problem, it even has the advantage that you can go with an all across width/height baffle without cutting through it. Can you go a bit wider?

The subs are too close for a top to bottom port, you can either do aero ports or a square/ rectangular center port, the bottom port is the easiest to do and if nothing obstructs it can work no problem, let me know what changes you want done

The baffle suggested is like the one in the pic (from a different design), goes all across the height and width if the box: The main problem with that baffle style is that you need to cut through it to make your port, Many people have reported bad results attempting to cut that. Anyhow I can provide a cut sheet list for that type of baffle if you want. Ported enclosures work best with port/sub on the same face, if the port has no breathing room in front of it then you aim it where there is, another case is when using aero ports, most times wont fit and mounting on a different face is the only alternative. You can also choose the side on which you want the port eitheer passenger or driver.

If you see a chance do at least some top to bottom bracing, it makes a difference.

Here is a set of optimizations, the important one is the center deflector, it must be done in a way in which the cross sectional area of the port stays the same, You can do cross bracing front to back and side to side on each chamber as you feel necessary. If you have a router rounding any sharp corners is recommended.