Nikitaaa

Always safer in the long run to get a bigger amp and turn it down then making a smaller work as hard as possible. You should be just fine with soundstream.

well i would want 150+ on tones that'd be sick to have a 150 on music from a single sub trunk build Good luck.. LOL

How high is your gain sir?

Are you for real? If you are i totally would

I didn't know this was possible to do.. Instructions please?

My Alpine CDA-105 o-scoped a soft clip at 30 and a hard clip at 31. I also have a buddy with the headunit and his doesn't distort until 32. That's through the RCA outputs ofcourse.

Yeah, you're right! Would you recommend reducing port area? Will it harm the output if I dropped it down to about 13 per?

Dimensions of my box are; 17.25h, 41w, and 24d. Port is 15.75h, 6w, and 20.75L. Double baffle with like .2 of bracing and .28 sub displacement.. If anybody could do something with winisd to show my why my box is peaky it would be great!

I would try building a 2:1 4th and take down my back seats if I knew the fs and qts of the sub.. But psi told me theat they couldn't tell me.. Are you all saying I should build a bigger box? The only problem with that is I dont have any more room in my hatch then the box I currently have(with back seats up)

Okay boys and girls, I have a couple questions. First, my box for my single 18 is around 6^3 tuned to 36.5 with 15.5 of port per 1^3. My box is REALLY peaky. Like.. Beyond peaky. Lows pretty much are non existent. 1) will inverting my sub flatten out the response a bit and help it play a bit lower? 2) if I add about .75 peice of mdf to the side of the port, it would drop my port area to about 13 and tuning to about 34ish. Is this worth makin my box look weird? Will it help flatten the response? Anyways, this box is like 2db louder at 42hz than 40hz. It's that bad.

As much as people hate kicker, that's a responsible price for what you get. Especially with a warranty.

Lol wut?

Running mine at .7 ohm, gets a little warm but nowhere near hot. I also have the voltage to support it, though. Honestly I think that you burned it up with stock electrical. Do you have a voltage meter? Also, did you do big 3 at least?

Then you sir were doing something very wrong. I had 1700 rated watts on my stock alt before I bought my singer (Subaru outback 2003 2.5l) and dropped to 13v at idle, 13.9 moving. You must have had a bad ground or a loose connection because our cars actually have pretty solid voltage with the big 3 upgraded. Anyways, OP: look for an amp that has just about the rms rating of your sub or a little more. The reason I say this is because I'm going to take a shot in the dark and assume you do not own a DD-1 or O-scope to tune your amp, making it very simple to clip your equipment. When you get into the clipping realm, then add overpowering to the mix, you are lucky not to blow equipment. Look for something reputable in the 250-500 watt rms range and you should be golden on that ivx, I wouldn't go any higher power wise without knowing its clean power.

I assume this would increase my output? It depends on how accurately you have your ssf set. If you have it set above a certain frequency then turn it down, output should be much greater at that frequency.

I know this doesn't have anything to do with it but I would crank that ssf down a bit. Shoot for half an octave or so. No reason to tune so low when your cutting out the lower frequencies like that; but thats just me.

What was his box/port orientation?

Does anyone know if xm songs have a lot of clipping, or are they clean songs? (assuming song is clean to begin with)

your going to get in so much trouble for that :] Kay, lemme rephrase that. Its a misconception that clipping is the ONLY cause of warm woofers,

Power=heat. It's a misconception that clipping is the cause of warm woofers.

Sigh... These people are trying to help you. They know what the fuck they're talking about. If it flexes with that much power, it's not built right. They're trying to prevent you from making the same mistake(s). Rather than "learning on your own," why don't you take their advice, try it, and if it works, consider yourself learn'd. This is what he always does. Asks a question because he fucks something up or doesnt understand, and turns any response in to an attack. Bottom line is, MDF is a strong enough wood. Either its built horribly, thickness is lacking, or design is flawed. Getting stronger material WILL NOT solve the issue if the issue in the build or design. This is not an attack, but truth. Fuck, you have issues listening when asking a question. OP when you decide to stop throwing your money away on faulty boxes and get over your own defensiveness you will listen to this guy, he knows much more than you or me combined. Do it right the first time and save yourself the headache.

Free air video ^^^ In the box^^^

I don't know how big your box is, but try to brace every 12-14 inches of mdf. Also, a double baffle is quite beneficial. I'm not exactly sure why your box is flexing so much with the power and cone area you have, but a properly built box shouldn't flex.

Yes, his woofer is broken in

That looks super clean, good work sonic.