Nikitaaa

Ill post a video later in the day!

I'm already using them. Maybe the floor of my hatch isn't steady enough? Because it has the plastic false floor that seperates the box from the spare tire well.. thats probably why the false floor doesn't allow the screw to actually attach to anything that will hold it steady xP This. Or maybe the bracing snapped inside? Nope, bracings good. I'm thinking it's the false floor jumping. What can I do to secure it?

I'm already using them. Maybe the floor of my hatch isn't steady enough? Because it has the plastic false floor that seperates the box from the spare tire well..

I used plenty of bracing when I made the box, so I didn't include a double baffle. An I just painted it. It would be a huge pain to add another baffle.

Any ideas from guys that have subs with epic motor force? Lol..

My subwoofer is port back sub up, and when I drive, the box literally flexes up and down. Yes, I have top to bottom bracing, but this is the WHOLE box moving. I have an l-bracket in the back and front of the box but it still moves.. What should I do?

Ditch the crap and save up for some reputable equipment man. You're going to end up buying all that garbage then hating it because it sounds like shit. I know you're trying to sound good on a budget but save for a while. Trust me, you will regret buying this stuff a short period of time. Look in the for sale section of this forum and you will come across a ton of reputable speakers and amps. Stay, learn save, and do your research and you should a pretty nice system.

You need 150 posts to sell in this forum sir. Also, a picture with your name on it next to the item. Please go read the rules

I agree with this. Carpet could have been done much cleaner. If it was me I would recarpet it because it looks very uneven. No hate though, still a fantastic price for what you're getting famous saying goes, "get what you pay for" True, however carpet glue is cheap, they could easily get something better then whatever generic shit they use. Its pretty cheap if it cant hold carpet. Better off user super glue then this stuff..... Also, a hole cut to big is NOT acceptable, makes the box not useable. Hopefully I can rig it by firing a screw in at an angle, which should not have to be done. As far as the cheap carpet job / uneven who cares. I'd rather it just be sanded and painted personally, but if you're going to carpet at least glue it correctly, so its not peeling off within 48 hours........ Im happy with the price, the biggest concern is the hole being to big to fit the screw in. If I cant make this work its unacceptable and a useless box. Rest is just minor flaws. In all honesty, I would call skar and ask them to make things right.. You shouldn't have to work around their mistakes. The box should work as intended or it shouldnt be sent at all.

I agree with this. Carpet could have been done much cleaner. If it was me I would recarpet it because it looks very uneven. No hate though, still a fantastic price for what you're getting

Am I realistically going to see a charging difference adding a alternator casing to battery negitive? Don't wanna waste my 0/1..

It kinda sounded like this..

No, not too many factors? I mean, it shouldn't be too hard to say if 150 db is possible with 2 walled 18s and 4000 rms? If its not hard than why are you asking?? Dude, nobody can tell you. For all we know, you cut holes in boxes and call them ports. Build it, test it, than YOU tell us.

In a buddies car, we just completely gorilla taped The sides of the box into the side of the trunk opening. It got so much louder and there was absolutely no air getting into the trunk. It's a cheap solution to get a lot louder.

Interesting. Should I move my box closer to the hatch? It's nearly a foot away.. I would shoot for 6-8 inches or the width of the port. Aight I'll move it closer in the morning and see what happens. If it fixes it I will be super happy. I honestly doubt moving it 3inches back is going to take that weird sound away. The sounds is like roof flex, only coming from the sub.. I just find it hard to belive that you messed up that sub from only 1200 watts not including box rise ect.. Take a volt meter to the coils. That would be the first thing I would do.

Interesting. Should I move my box closer to the hatch? It's nearly a foot away.. I would shoot for 6-8 inches or the width of the port.

It's like a really odd mechanic grinding sound. His gains and ssf and everything is good. I just don't know why it could be..

3.5k shipped to 98826. Also, 2k to the same address.

I never understood why people abuse caps lock. DOES THIS MAKE YOU WANT TO ANSWER MY QUESTION MORE? Edit: 38hz will sound fine, but don't excpect to play 20hz loud and clear unless you really know how to build a proper ported box and control the cones movement. Just depends on what you are looking for in music.

29inch depth in our cars?! Thats going to be super close to the hatch... I would have done a wider box thats not quite as deep because you will loose a ton of output having it so close to the hatch bro! Also, moar port.

Well, be positive because the point of building a custom box is just that, so it's custom and fits the recommended specs of a certain subwoofer.

Ah, it may be different in your Outback. Unfortunately I don't have a build log. I wish I did :/ Good luck with everything though, those aeros should make your box pretty efficient.

I was sagnificantly louder on the meter when I had sub up, port back. It's what I would suggest for your vehicle. May I ask why you only have 13inch hight though? I pulled off 16.5inches the seat and window line.

In my Subaru Outback, the box was much louder to the ear when scooted back as far as possible. Fortunately for you you're just running a one sub set up so you can play with box positioning and distance from port to hatch. Mine AQ is probably 6-8 inches away.

My Schumacher charges at around 14.8-14.9? Third this going to jeopardize the life of my batteries?