Miguels

wish i had the funds for a scv7500 sundown always building beast equipment

he says the coil reads 1.7.. if thats the case then its not a bad sub..

or made sure the sub isnt really bad.. post the video so people can help you see if its bad or not

his post wasnt clear at all.. on reads 2 ohms the other doesnt.. that could mean anything OP post the video

1.71?

easy wiring too.. just wire the power to the fuse bolt, the ground to the screw that screws to the body panel, and the remote to the ignition switch and the volt meter is working..

he only changes his audio

have you contacted singer? what car do you have

well look at it this way.. 2 D3100 will run you $728 and thats not including shipping in into Canada.. with those 2 D3100 you will be around 160 heavier and you will still have voltage drop.. an alternator even if it dont fit your car $499. so that means you have $228 to pay someone to make the alternator fit.. you will save weight and have your voltage where you need it

maybe you didnt get my post.. battery rating means squat if you dont have the alternator to support the demand.. get an alternator

no.. you will play longer but eventually you will be digging on battery power.. you can add 10 D3100 and still have voltage drop.. the alternator is what makes the power the batteries just store it it be cheaper to buy a 250A alternator and a tiny battery in the rear like a d1200 or even the d935

yeah its the same thing i say.. if 1 D3100 is good for 5000 watts why do we need 5 of them on a 9k amp or 3 on a 5k amp? it could be because of the alternator output.. if you have an alternator that can supply the demand you don need that many batteries..

i have a bad battery on my bike.. if i charge the battery enough to turn it on it charges at 12.4 i rev it and goes up to 13.1 but quickly drops to 12.4 again.. charge it up for 2 hours and try again and it charges at 14.1 regardless if i rev it or not. after a while it drops to 13.9 and 14.0.. the low battery makes a big difference in my bike and how the stater charges. you could be having the same issue

ddm=digital multi meter i have had bad luck with yellow tops..

please be more clear.. which meter stock or DMM and where did you plug it? have you check all the wiring to see if its secure? have you checked if it has a fuse and if the fuse is working properly? check for loose wires on every connection.. if the alt would be bad the battery light on the dash and maybe the check engine light would be on.. if they are not on then the alternators is working but somewhere there is a bad connection how old is the batter and what brand is it. cant you test it after turning your car off taking note of voltage then rechecking hours later to check the voltage? if i get the reading from my cigarette lighter is reads 13v and eveen 12v but at the batteries im at 14.8..

yes.. did the shop take care of that? 1/0 wire for that alt would be good.

ground it to the frame and battery.. do you even have the big 3 done?

13.6-13.8 yes. Less than that, no. No vehicle on a standard 12v electrical system will charge that low. the only reason for voltage to read lower than that all of the time is the alternator isn't charging at the voltage it should be. Yea i noticed other ppls 12v systems would be at 13.8 or even 14 yes but you can rule the alternator is bad.. check connections.. check every wire like grounds and even the back plug on the alternators.. all that can make it not operate properly During the summers in PHX. My Powermaster used would drop to 13.7 when it was 105+ out. Winter it would charge at 14.6. both numbers are while driving i haent run my singer during winter.. they charge at 14.1 and drop to 13.8 once hot.. im sure it will jump higher during winter

you shouldnt talk before knowing.. i have ran DC alts.. and there is a person i got one from that he can prove i have DC alts. im also not new to alternators.. i have swapped in and wired alts to my cars even before being a member in this forum.. the ones you have had are not the one the OP has.. i know the ones i had have ran at 15.2 and drop to 14.8 but not ecm controlled. not all alternators and vehicles are the same. also not all DMM are accurate.. i have a high end one that reads one thing and a $20 one and the readings are way off.. my high dollar one matches with the smd meter and xs power meter the cheapy one matches with none go ahead and ask kevin from cnf who got his a DC alternator when he got 8 xs power d3100 from him.. then go ask broke audio who bought his dc power alternators

test your batteries.. check what is the resting voltage then check the drop when you start the car.. if it drops to 9v then you have a bad battery

you guys dont even know what car he has or if the voltage is controlled by the ecm so how can you assume the alternator is bad.. first you trouble shoot then conclude whats wrong.. do you even know how he is getting his voltage reading? do you know if its accurate? anything above battery resting voltage is an indication the alternator is charging.. again check connections and amp gain..

at first the price hits you like damn thats expensive. but then you see that they are assembled in the US and not only that, its done by hand not a robot. that makes the msrp realistic.. if i was to be building an SQ car these amps would be at the top of the list

the 3sixty.3 i never messed with but its a possessor not a gain setting.. you need to set the gain on the amp

many alternators charge at 13v.. my singer did too the only difference is that it held 13v with a load.. check connections and amp gain.. on my expo i would drop to 11v with a mechman that does 240a at idle set at 13.8v. set the gains with DD-1 and it was fixed..