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Found 28 results

  1. hello everyone and thank you for your time... i recently installed a new system in my car SETUP : DC AUDIO LEVEL 3(connected on 1 ohm) , Skar skv2 1500D Monoblock , MOREL VIRTUS 602 as for components, Audison SR4 as for 4 channel amp, under the hood is a deep cycle AGM battery, and a 1.5farad capacitor in the trunk jvc kw-v21bt headunit WIRING : 0AWG from the hood battery to the monoblock and the ground is 0AWG from the amp to the chassis (about 20cm) , 4AWG (+ AND GROUND) from the hood battery to the 4 channel amp, and ofc high end cables and RCA from the headunit to the amps... big 3 : NO Problem : when i play at low volume everything works perfectly, as soon as i raise the volume up to half (mono gain is 1\10) the music dies. the amps doesn't go into protection and the voltage doesn't drop! , when i close the gain i can go to full volume with no problems, Notice : i currently using a stock grounding from the battery + a 16AWG to the chassis ( i think its weak), sometimes when the bass kicks really hard without the music dies, i hear a bit of distortion coming out from the tweeters What could be the issue? Thank you all for your time <3
  2. I have a 2015 Sierra Double cab and im designing an amp rack to hold my 2 mbquart amps, lc7i, and two SMD distro blocks. What kind of material should i use and how thick should it be?
  3. https://www.instagram.com/p/BiRx6X-gFT1/ , any suggestions would be great , its a 2017 subaru impreza, so i have no idea about the big 3 , it looks very confusing. the alt positive connects to the fuse box with a different gauge wire. plus i cant find a high output alt to fit it at the moment.
  4. I have a pair of jbl gti 800 rms subs that i want to power. I was told the JL audio rd1500/1 would do the job. I started doing some research and came across the orion xtr 1500.1d. I remember orion form way back in the 90's and heard they were sold to a korean company but are still real good amps. They retail on amazon for $245 and the jl retails for $629. Why is the JL so much more expensive? Do the orions overheat or something that I am missing that cause such a huge price difference?
  5. This will be my first post here on the site. Im currently running the American bass xfl 12" subs in a q bomb pro box off a hifonics brz 2400.1 with a red top under the hood in a 95 Avalon. So I need help designing a box where my subs face the rear but my port is facing the cab. I want the port in the center bc I want it blowing through the "arm rest hole" of the back seat. I will be posting a few drawing of what I have drawn up. no measurements yet, just ideas im playing with. This box I've designed is an L shaped ported box with the port in the back. what do you guys think??? will it work?? *******The blue represents the air flow. I also drew braces in the back....
  6. I was wondering if its possible to wire your subs and amp to .5 ohms but with a Rockford Fosgate t1000-1bdcp? Can i get a wiring diagram or something. I have 2 Rockford 12" P3D4s if that helps too. Thanks guys!
  7. I need help i need to know what to put my eq settings at to max my subs ability. i know my amp sucks and i need to get a 1000 watt but for now wat should i put the settings to on my pioneer head unit. bass boost? sub woofer controls, hpf? again i have a kenwood 5 channel pushing 150 watts rms to each kicker which can handle 300 rms. please help and tell me how high i can turn them up. ive already blown my stock subs but my door speakers still work. PLEASE HELP asap much appreciated
  8. I plan on using my iPod for the media playback on my little rinky dink system. Is it better for my to have as "flat" a sound come off my iPod to the head-unit then have a default EQ on the head unit set to "flat". Then after I have the RCAs going to my amps use the settings on the amps to bring the music to life again? i assume that there are a few variables like the head-unit and the amp quality and other things, but im just wondering as a general quality of sound type question. Thanks
  9. Sup guys, First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong forum section. I couldn't decide where it fit best, but I knew it wasn't SQ or Ground pounders so here's the deal: My friend is going to be getting his car soon. He does have a job, so I don't have to scamper around looking for crap equipment, but I'm still on an ultra tight budget. Basically I'm looking for equipment that is from good companies but that won't break the bank. Here's what I'm thinking so far: Sub: 1 12" C2 Audio Threatcon 2 (the one with minor cosmetic flaws is 110 dollars) Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-150MP (65 bucks) wire: Knu 4 gauge wiring kit (27 dollars) and 6 ft of knu 8 gauge (3 dollars) with a knu 1x4-2x8 distribution block (10 dollars) The part I've been having trouble with are door speakers and an amp. Since the budget is so limited, we are focusing on the front-stage only. His brother has a cadence 5 channel amp laying around that we will use to power whatever door speakers (hence the distribution block) but I think it'd be best to use a seperate amp for the sub itself. As far as speakers I've seen, RE makes some decent looking cheap components / coaxials, and Cadence makes some that look ok too. What else looks good? I don't want to spend more than 70 for a pair. As far as amps, I've looked at a couple. The alpine mrp m500 does 500rms into 2 ohms. You can get it for about 125 on amazon. The other one that I like is the Sony XM-ZZr3301. I would usually avoid sony at all costs, but this one is Cea certified so it should do the 600rms into 2 ohms that it is rated for. It's 100 bucks on sonicelectronix. So what do you guys think? What would be some other good options? I don't want to spend more than 125 for the amp, and I'd like it to be in that 500-700 watt range. Thanks alot!
  10. Alright, so I've lurked on these forums for quite some time, and im now in the process of building my first real system so I would love some input/advice. For starters, I am a fan of Kicker L7's, I know a lot of people may hate on them but that is what I would like to run. My vehicle is a 2004 Tahoe LT. Currently I have 2 stinger spv44 batteries, a kicker zx2500.1 amp, a JVC touch screen head unit, and 1 4 ohm 15" L7 wired to a 2 ohm load in a super bass pro box. Im running 4 powerbass 6.5's in my doors, and 2 unknown tweeters (friend owns an installation shop and gave them to me for free). Everything else is still stock. My current setup is I have my stock everstart battery under the hood, im running 0 gauge wire from that battery (which I will reference to as Battery 1) to a stinger spv44 in the trunk (Battery 2), and then that is connected the other spv44 (battery 3) right beside it. I have 2 200 amperage fuses on the wire running from battery 1 to battery 2, the first fuse less than 12" from battery 1, and the 2nd fuse less than 12" from battery 2. I have wire connecting both of the positive terminals between batteries 2 and 3 and wire connecting both negative terminals between batteries 2 and 3. Battery 2 and battery 3 are also both grounded in separate locations. Im running wire from battery 3 to the zx2500.1 amp with another 200 amperage fuse on that wire leading to the amp. The amp is also grounded in a different location than battery 2 and 3. I plan to upgrade my system to 2 2 ohm 15" L7's here shortly to keep them at a 2 ohm load, build a vented box with separate air chambers, 6 cubic feet of air space per sub. Now that I have explained everything to (hopefully) provide all of the information that you need, here are my questions. 1) Do I have both of the extra batteries and the amp all wired up correctly? All of the wire ran is 0 gauge and there are only the 3 fuses listed in the set up described above, is there anything that I need to change related to how its wired? Do I need to upgrade the battery under my hood and/or my alternator? 2) I dont want my box to take up all of my trunk, I am an avid paintball player so I still need room in the back for my gear bag and cases of paint. If I was to put the box as close to behind the 2nd row of seats as I could so I still had room behind the box for my gear, would there be any significant SPL or SQ loss? 3) My 2nd row seats are bucket seats and not a bench and I currently have the amp mounted on the floor between them, It seemed like a great Idea at first but now im worried about someone potentially spilling something on the amp and ruining it, if the box is built with 1" thick MDF, could I safely mount the amp to the box or would it receive too much vibrations and damage it? The box will be carpeted and mounted to the floor. 4) I listen to all music from country to classic rock, to deathcore, to rap, to dubstep, so pretty much anything and everything, what would be the best Hz to tune the box to for good daily listening, I want the system to be loud, but I want as much of a full range as possible. 5) I want to amp the 6.5's and my tweeters, all of the 6.5's are 75 watt rms at 4 ohm (im not sure if they are DVC or not, can't remember) should I get a 4 or 6 channel amp, and what amp would you guys recommend for them? Currently the 1 l7 already overpowers them tremendously when running off of the headunit alone and thats with the zx2500's gain at 5%, and 0% on the bass boost. 6) Should I put support bars inside the box for those subs or do you think the wood will be thick enough to prevent any vibrations? 7) If mounting the amps on the box is a bad idea, all of my seats are leather, could I mount the amp im getting for the 6.5's/tweeters on the back of a leather seat or could/would that cause me any problems or be a bad idea? 8 ) I keep my EQ on my head unit on flat but the subwoofer level at +10, the treble in the music starts to distort at alot lower volumes when playing music off of my ipod (its EQ is also set to flat) which is connected via USB when compared to listening to music off of a CD. To explain a little better, I have these same songs on my itunes list, I burnt a CD with 10 of the songs and can go to volume 40 before it distorts, but when listening to the same songs from my ipod, they start to distort at volume 32, what is causing that? 9) Sense space is an issue here, is sub and port both up fine? I've been told sub up port back is better, but if I load up gear behind the box, I don't want to choke the port of air space. 10) Once I'm running 2 L7's, do you think those 6 speakers, even after being amplified will be enough to have a good balance of lows, mids, and high's? I would like to keep my subs as loud as I can without clipping them, but I still want to be able to hear the words haha. 11) With only having the sub amplified, the sub is slightly out of phase/delayed with rest of the music, this will be my first set up amping my mids/highs, will amping the mids/high's fix the slight delay that I hear? 12) This may be a bit un-related as far as I know, but about 2 weeks after my so far system install I got a check engine light with the message, "reduced engine power" and im now getting 0 throttle response. I was told by a certified mechanic that it is an electrical issue, do you think this was caused by my system or is it just a separate problem? I know I asked A LOT of questions but I want to have this system done right and I know the brilliant people of the SMD community have the answers. Any comments, help, answers or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks everybody! *P.S. if I put this in the wrong section, please just move it instead of deleting it and send me a PM as to where it was moved to, thanks again!
  11. So im going to put 1 DAD BD-12 in my tahoe. (this is for a beginner setup). My electrical and such will all be upgraded, 0 gauge wiring and all. I was wondering what the best amp for this would be. The Bd-12 sub is rated at 1000 watts rms, 2000 peak. So im kind of in an odd position. I could go with two 1000 watt amps or one 2500 watt amp, but i don't want to blow the sub. Please help
  12. I am going to get a supplemental battery in the trunk and I will connect it to the main starter battery (positive to positive and negative to negative). I have an amp in the back for my subs and an amp (for my speakers) mounted to the passenger side of the center console by the feet. Do I have to run wire back to the supplemental battery from the amp that is in the front of the car, or can I just keep it connected to the starter battery? I don't THINK it would matter since the batteries are connected with each other, but I 'm not sure. If you need details or pictures just look at my garage, it is the 2007 ford fusion.
  13. i just purchased 2 6 1/2 inch polk audios from best buy. im going to install them in my front door speakers, by hooking them up to my 5 channel kenwood amp. i have a pioneer radio and a 2004 toyota camry. i need help on how to install these and wat i should have my settings on my head unit? please help asap. oh and by the way i have 2 kicker 12" comp vrs in my trunk
  14. Alright, I need some opinions, I'm looking into redoing my stock door speakers in my 2011 F150. So far, I've picked out the Rockford Fosgate T400-4 amp, the T252-S components for the front, and the T1572 5x7s for the rear. I just want some opinions on if this setup would sound good or what's better. Remember, college student budget, under $1000 total, lol. Ive already got 2 DD 1508's under the back seat, so no subs. Thanks!
  15. lets read the for sale section rules now
  16. We are building a demo vehicle for this upcoming CES (Jan 6 -10th) in Las Vegas! It is a 2015 Yukon, install being done by Handcrafted Car Audio of Chandler, Arizona. The Yukon is being built to showcase the amplifiers that will be unveiled at the CES Show. We have a booth in The Orleans Hotel where will be showing DiamondBoxx and SMD tools and meters, but no demo car there. The Yukon will be manned by our staff and will be mobile to give demos during the show as much as possible. We will also bring it out to the bassheads meet so people can take a look and listen. The amplifiers are high-end Class A dual monoblocks... more about those later. I will update this thread with pics as I get them. 2015 Yukon (2) D'Amore Engineering Dual Monoblock 1500.2 Class A / A/B amplifiers (2) Sets of 3-way components, Hertz High Energy HSK163 Audison Bit-One sound processor (3) Hertz High Energy 15 inch subwoofers HX 380 Audison Distribution Block and fusing CE Auto Electric Big 3 Upgrade CE AUto Electric 1/0 AWG OFC Front to Rear CE Auto Electric 4 AWG to amplifiers, 2 runs positive and negative to each amp because they are TRUE dual mono, one power supply per channel! Custom Dash pods, front door panels, subwoofer box and more by Handcrafted Car Audio ACRES of Premium Acoustic sound deadening by SoundSkins; doors, roof, hatch, etc 26 X 10 Giovanna Dramuno-6 Forged wheels 305/30/26 Pirelli Scorpion tires Big thanks to SoundSkins, CE Auto Electric, Elettromedia, and of course Handcrafted Car Audio More mods to come On to the pics --- sorry about the formatting I'm kind of a newb in forum posting -Tony D
  17. Since the unveiling of our A series amplifiers and before, I get the occasional email that reads "hey, I know you're busy, but could you design a few amps for me real quick" It usually makes me giggle a little and then smh. It takes me back to 1999 right before I started with RF. I also had no idea what was involved designing an amplifier from the ground up. No disrespect intended if you are reading this and have asked me to make you some amps before. How would you know what is involved if you haven't done it before? This has prompted me to go through literally thousands of photos on my phone and pull off any amplifier design pictures that have to do with the new amplifiers we just introduced. I will make my best attempt at posting them here in chronological order, and make some brief comments here and there. I also threw in a few pictures of my daughter taken during those times as a measure of time. The A series amplifiers are a direct COPY of the home audio amplifier I designed for my own use (changed power supply to 12VDC, added fans, remote turn on, balanced/unbalanced input and ability to put it into Class A/B mode (home amp is always class A)) so I have included the photos of designing that as well because all of the time I spent developing the circuits went directly into the mobile amplifiers. Ok enough of me talking.. On with the show! Before I build any circuit I like to try to simulate it in PSPICE, here you see a nice clean output and the predicted distortion My daughter was born during this time Here you see the power supply for the home amp. AC to DC supplies like this are very easy to design. The small circuit board is the input stage and voltage amplifier stage. This is where a lot of the magic is and many months of reading and testing were done to get it to work. Unfortunately I couldn't find any pictures during that time. We went through at least 3 different voltage amplifier designs, PCBs and testing before we came up with what we use today. Moved tested input stage and voltage amplifier stage onto main PCB instead of it having it's own PCB. (In the car amp it still has its own PCB for the least amount of noise possible) Each tiny resistor and transistor has been studied for voltage, current, and power dissipation. Prototyping the current amplifier stage It works! Now lets build 2 voltage amplifiers, 2 current amplifiers, connect them together and add a power supply! We also added a prototype SMD VU-DIN meter for S&G. Ok let's put this contraption in some kind of case so we can move it around without breaking anything. A SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno prototype case worked well Keeping the same case, I designed a simple face plate for it and had my machine shop CNC it. We put it all together with some prototype meters. Shown here on the distortion analyzer making a sweet ass sine wave with only 0.0068% THD! WHOA! Cleanest amp i've ever tested, home, pro, or car.
  18. If you would like to learn more about electricity, electrical networks, what RMS is, what clipping is, and much more to come; check out the D'Amore Engineering University FREE EDUCATION video series. We launched it last month, are averaging 1 video per week. Most of the time a homework problem is assigned at the end and answered in the next video. We are starting off slow and basic and will work up through how and amplifier works and more. Join us! -Tony http://damoreengineering.com/freeeducation.html
  19. Hey smd, i have my hdc3 15 downstairs, d2 wiring. i plan on runnign it at 1 ohm, in my malibu w stock 110a alt,(to be changed) 3 runs of 2awg OFC EB flex, with 2 deep cycles in the rear(Undetermined) and my big ass moto master upfront from the batts--amp i will have 1/0, but from the front batt-- back batt will all be 2awg also big 3 will be done in the 1/0.war I am able to drop 550 bucks on a nice quality amp that will push this hdc3 to its limits. I Would love to buy the aq 2200 brand new off their site, but i have a boy who has a sexy DD m3a amp for 500 picked up. So im debating.... What do you guys think. kinda leaning towards the ddm3a cause its rare where im from.
  20. i am trying to teach myself amp repair, i removed the rectifiers to separate power and output sections of teh board. i did not realize at the time that the 4 chips were different, some npn and others pnp. i hope someone can help as im stuck right now and dont know how to continue the repair with out this info i am looking for pictures of this HCCA amp with the board exposed and the retention plates off for the mosfets. i need to see the writing on the rectifiers on the center/outside edge of the board. i circled the spots here: https://imgur.com/EA7Gitc
  21. I have a single 12" american bass godfather DVC 1ohm subwoofer and a Audiopipe 1800.1d mono amplifier to power the sub. Head unit is typical pioneer deh3500 model. This is in a 06 Ford Escape XLT, needing suggestions and ideas on a box build for this setup. I'm open to any idea's except, sealed enclosures. Seems to look like it'll be easier to blow a sub using a sealed enclosure . Keep in mind the Escape is my daily driver. Thank yall for any tips or ideas.
  22. I'm looking for a dc amp 3.5k, 5k, 7.5 prefer mint condition but if the prices right a couple nicks are fine. Thanks for any help or in a certain direction. Prefer a 5k over the others
  23. I am looking to do a Skar setup in my explorer. Have 2 box designs that will fit: 1) Two VVX v2 15"s, dual 4, wired down to 1 ohm on a skar 1500. 2) Four IVX v1 15's, dual 2's, wired down to 1 ohm on a skar 1500. both setups would be in ported boxs, tuned at about 32. Now, I have room to do either setup, but kind of want some input on these. I know the VVX's are said to be able to take a lot more than 600 watts. I'm just afraid of getting 2 of these on a skar 1500 and being upset because the 750 going to each wont be enough. Now, with the IVXs, is 375 each going to be enough, or to much? the version 1's are rated at 300, which is the version i am aiming to order. Any and all info on this would be great. Thanks ahead of time guys!
  24. Oryan55

    Pick one

    Anyone test or tried Skar audio or Soundqubed? I'm thinking of going with Soundqubed because of what they offer for the price but just want to hear from some experience.
  25. I am planning on putting about 5,000 watts of power into a car and of course, it has the stock alt, so it probably won't hold up. I understand that alternators come in different sizes, let alone different amperage's, but I need to know how to go about selecting an alt that will fit my engine/car.
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