Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'amps'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • System Of The Month
    • SMD FORUMS - SOTM sponsored by CE Auto Electric, XS Power, and Mechman!
  • General
    • SMD Official WcCarAudio Store - All SMD Products and MORE here!
    • SMD Official Amazon Store - All SMD Products and MORE here!
    • SMD Official eBay Store - All SMD Products and MORE here!
    • SMD Forums Technical Difficulty Area - have a technical problem with the site? let us know, we will try to fix it!
    • Tunez - All things music related
    • Security Center - Car/Home Alarms, devices, tactics, tips....
    • Air Ride / Hydraulics - Got Switches? Want Switches? Post here!
    • Suspension and Brakes (4x4, street drops) - Lift it, Drop it..STOP it!
    • Interior / Exterior / Paint - Detailing, washing, waxing,tricks of the trade!
    • Engine and Performance - Anything for that couple extra horses!
    • Wheels and Tires - The rubber hits the road here!
    • Member Rides & Builds -- Show off your whip, Show off your System!
    • Member Videos - Host 'em & Post 'em! System Vids / Off Topic
    • Just Meade....my projects - Tons of SMD Builds here!
    • Off Topic - Random, Misc posts - the forum "Junk Drawer"
  • Equipment
  • WcCarAudio
  • System Design Knowledge Base
  • Fabrication, Fiberglass, Etc
  • TOOLS and TESTING Devices
  • Competitors Corner
  • Misc Stuff
  • Misc. Manufacturers (Friends of SMD)
  • For Sale / Want to Buy
  • Online Dealers
  • Your Local Shop/Dealer & Special "Read only" forums


  • Off topic video's
  • Bass Demo's
  • Subwoofer Reviews
  • Installations
  • Tutorials
  • Build Series

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL







Found 74 results

  1. Just got a LaCrosse with the Bose factory system and the bass in the factory system is exactly what you would expect so I need subs. I don't want it too crazy but enough to get through the back seats. I'm going to add an rca convertor and there appears to be a power source in the trunk but what kind of box should I get? I listen to 80's and 90's hip hop so the insides are fine. I just want to add that missing bottom. My Soundman Dangler doesn't even budge... I was thinking an isobaric box with a single 10 or 12 and a 500wt amp? Does anyone have a lacrosse and know what works best for that car. Thx for the info.
  2. I have a 2015 Sierra Double cab and im designing an amp rack to hold my 2 mbquart amps, lc7i, and two SMD distro blocks. What kind of material should i use and how thick should it be?
  3. https://www.instagram.com/p/BiRx6X-gFT1/ , any suggestions would be great , its a 2017 subaru impreza, so i have no idea about the big 3 , it looks very confusing. the alt positive connects to the fuse box with a different gauge wire. plus i cant find a high output alt to fit it at the moment.
  4. I have a pair of jbl gti 800 rms subs that i want to power. I was told the JL audio rd1500/1 would do the job. I started doing some research and came across the orion xtr 1500.1d. I remember orion form way back in the 90's and heard they were sold to a korean company but are still real good amps. They retail on amazon for $245 and the jl retails for $629. Why is the JL so much more expensive? Do the orions overheat or something that I am missing that cause such a huge price difference?
  5. I have a single 12" american bass godfather DVC 1ohm subwoofer and a Audiopipe 1800.1d mono amplifier to power the sub. Head unit is typical pioneer deh3500 model. This is in a 06 Ford Escape XLT, needing suggestions and ideas on a box build for this setup. I'm open to any idea's except, sealed enclosures. Seems to look like it'll be easier to blow a sub using a sealed enclosure . Keep in mind the Escape is my daily driver. Thank yall for any tips or ideas.
  6. Hi, You guys probably see a lot of stupid questions in here and this might be one, but I gotta ask. So I got a rockfordfosgate 12" dual punch P2 sub/s and two amps, there is only one input on the enclosure. I got this setup from my sister and as of now the amps seem hooked up(I have barely touched it from one car to the other, only ran the wires as they were), but I feel like it lacks the expected punch it should have. Currently the two amps I have is one rockfordfosgate amp and another unknown 1500 watt amp(Dont remember the names so will edit them in later when I check.). They are wired as shown in the pic, I feel like this is not the correct way as it seems illogical and thats why I need help. How SHOULD it be wired so I can fix it?
  7. i am trying to teach myself amp repair, i removed the rectifiers to separate power and output sections of teh board. i did not realize at the time that the 4 chips were different, some npn and others pnp. i hope someone can help as im stuck right now and dont know how to continue the repair with out this info i am looking for pictures of this HCCA amp with the board exposed and the retention plates off for the mosfets. i need to see the writing on the rectifiers on the center/outside edge of the board. i circled the spots here: https://imgur.com/EA7Gitc
  8. i am soon to purchase 3 type r 10's the new ones that run 1000 watts rms so please help me pair an amp or or amps to these subs and any other helpful information would be accepted as well. (please do not troll me i am 16 and on my 2nd system)
  9. This will be my first post here on the site. Im currently running the American bass xfl 12" subs in a q bomb pro box off a hifonics brz 2400.1 with a red top under the hood in a 95 Avalon. So I need help designing a box where my subs face the rear but my port is facing the cab. I want the port in the center bc I want it blowing through the "arm rest hole" of the back seat. I will be posting a few drawing of what I have drawn up. no measurements yet, just ideas im playing with. This box I've designed is an L shaped ported box with the port in the back. what do you guys think??? will it work?? *******The blue represents the air flow. I also drew braces in the back....
  10. while im still searching for another cactus sounds k12, i have a couple people willing to sell their DC 12k amps. i just want to know if it is possible to gain match these two amps, Dont these amps have the same board? my friend, Blake Clements, explained to me some stuff about these amps and other 12k amps that use the same board. Can somebody chime in and give me more info, or tell me other stuff, disagreeing or agreeing, so on Someone with amp knowledge!?!! thanks in advance!
  11. I'm looking to buy a amp or maybe even two(but within the buget). I have 4 sa-12 dual 4ohms.. Help Plz
  12. Is an amp without the subsonic feature a bad amp? Just wondering if using an amp without subsonic is potentially harmful.
  13. I was wondering if its possible to wire your subs and amp to .5 ohms but with a Rockford Fosgate t1000-1bdcp? Can i get a wiring diagram or something. I have 2 Rockford 12" P3D4s if that helps too. Thanks guys!
  14. I need help i need to know what to put my eq settings at to max my subs ability. i know my amp sucks and i need to get a 1000 watt but for now wat should i put the settings to on my pioneer head unit. bass boost? sub woofer controls, hpf? again i have a kenwood 5 channel pushing 150 watts rms to each kicker which can handle 300 rms. please help and tell me how high i can turn them up. ive already blown my stock subs but my door speakers still work. PLEASE HELP asap much appreciated
  15. I have a stock battery up front in the engine compartment and a CRESCENDO LOGIC F-31HP AGM POWERCELL in the back. I will eventually replace the stock alternator with a high output alternator either mechman or dc power but which ever one would be about 250A max; idling around 180-200A. I was planning on running one run of 1/0 from the battery up front to the battery in the back (+ to + and - to -). But after doing some looking and reading around, I feel like I'm on the edge of the 1/0 amperage capacity. Or am I reading the chart or thinking about this all wrong? The length of the run will be somewhere between 12'-20'. I know, it is a big range, but I'm trying to play it safe by overestimating. QUESTION: Am I safe with the one run of 1/0 or should I have another positive to positive 1/0 wire or also a wire from the back battery negative to the chassis also or one 2/0 wire, or what? I want to hear everyone's thoughts and suggestions! Oh, and what size of fuses (2 of them; one close to each battery, right?) should I get for the positive wire?
  16. Hi I was wanting some opinions on what amp to buy. I have one American bass xfl 12 and I am probably looking 1000 to 1500 watts RMS. looking to spend between $200 and $300 most likely. some amps I have thought about were American bass hd 2500, and American bass vfl line. also looked at ct sounds amps. also had thought about Hifonics Brutus line. all opinions welcome tell me what you think.
  17. I plan on using my iPod for the media playback on my little rinky dink system. Is it better for my to have as "flat" a sound come off my iPod to the head-unit then have a default EQ on the head unit set to "flat". Then after I have the RCAs going to my amps use the settings on the amps to bring the music to life again? i assume that there are a few variables like the head-unit and the amp quality and other things, but im just wondering as a general quality of sound type question. Thanks
  18. Sup guys, First off, I apologize if this is in the wrong forum section. I couldn't decide where it fit best, but I knew it wasn't SQ or Ground pounders so here's the deal: My friend is going to be getting his car soon. He does have a job, so I don't have to scamper around looking for crap equipment, but I'm still on an ultra tight budget. Basically I'm looking for equipment that is from good companies but that won't break the bank. Here's what I'm thinking so far: Sub: 1 12" C2 Audio Threatcon 2 (the one with minor cosmetic flaws is 110 dollars) Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-150MP (65 bucks) wire: Knu 4 gauge wiring kit (27 dollars) and 6 ft of knu 8 gauge (3 dollars) with a knu 1x4-2x8 distribution block (10 dollars) The part I've been having trouble with are door speakers and an amp. Since the budget is so limited, we are focusing on the front-stage only. His brother has a cadence 5 channel amp laying around that we will use to power whatever door speakers (hence the distribution block) but I think it'd be best to use a seperate amp for the sub itself. As far as speakers I've seen, RE makes some decent looking cheap components / coaxials, and Cadence makes some that look ok too. What else looks good? I don't want to spend more than 70 for a pair. As far as amps, I've looked at a couple. The alpine mrp m500 does 500rms into 2 ohms. You can get it for about 125 on amazon. The other one that I like is the Sony XM-ZZr3301. I would usually avoid sony at all costs, but this one is Cea certified so it should do the 600rms into 2 ohms that it is rated for. It's 100 bucks on sonicelectronix. So what do you guys think? What would be some other good options? I don't want to spend more than 125 for the amp, and I'd like it to be in that 500-700 watt range. Thanks alot!
  19. Hello everyone i have a relatively mid powered system. I am having a issue with my electric system. I know this topic is being discussed million times, but I'm not sure what to believe. my system is as follows: pionner unit x2700bs 6.2" touchscreen pioneer gm-d9605 5 channel amp, 4x 75watts @ 4ohm and 1x 600 watts @ 2ohm (2000watts max) class d amp two nvx 6.5 speakers @50watts and two nvx 6x9 @ 55 watts, plus, two 12" rockford fosgate single [email protected] p1s4-12 connected in parallel for a final impidence of 2ohms, 250watts each, 500 -600 watts total 4 guage wire for + and - of the amp 14 guage speaker wires/ 8 guage amp wires stock alternator 110amps xspower d1200 battery big 3 upgrade with 1/0 guage wire from xspower kit All gains set properly with smd dd1 deck clips at 38 out of 40 but i never pass 31 my problem is that my headlights dims when the bass hits, and also i have voltage drops when the bass hits, at the battery terminals it goes from 13.8 to 12.5, or even lower. At the amp terminals its always 12.8 and it drops to 11.2 or lower. I also noticed a change of the engine noise, meaning that when the bass hits, looks like the rpms are affected or something, because the noise reduces every time the bass hits. I would like to play loud, but also not stress out my other electrics/electronics in my car. any suggestions?
  20. Okay, so I have been doing some research on running a 14v or possibly a 16v system for my sub stage. I have found a lot of useful information, but I still have a few questions. My plan would be to keep my factory alt and 12v battery for the factory electrical components, and then run two 270a alts externally regulated to charge at 14v or 16v (Undecided). I know if I do this I will need a bank of batteries at decided voltage (14v or 16v). The amp I will be running is the Incriminator IA40.1, which can handle up to 19v. I will be running 6 Sound cubed HDS3 12s, which are rated at 1200rms a piece, Roughly 7200rms total. I have found out my 12v and 14v or 16v system can share a common ground with no issue. So I guess my main question is, will running a higher voltage system cause added strain on the amplifier or alternators. I have read that higher voltage systems can be unpredictable, but from what I picked up this was only if you were to try to run a single system with step downs etc. and not have two isolated systems. Basically what I would like to know, is what are the cons of running a 14v or 16v system over a 12v system. This will be my daily.. (kind of, I have a back up truck) but it is not a competition vehicle.
  21. Hey folks. First post here and I love the forum. I am trying to find out if I can run a high-level input from my factory head-unit to two separate amps (i.e. put a T in the head-unit output and run each to a small amp). I have a Jeep Wrangler JK, and have the top down/doors off a lot. I need to keep the cheap ugly OEM radio for anti-theft reasons. The OEM radio is TERRIBLE, but I am stuck with trying to polish a turd. I also can't have a sub in the back, or someone could just reach in and walk away with it. Everything will look stock when I am done with it. My plan is have: 2x 3.5" speakers in dash. 2x 5.25" subwoofers in the sealed lower dash pods. 2x 6.5" coaxials in sound bar above my head. 2x bass-shakers in the seats. and 2x JL HX 280/4 amplifiers hidden under the dash I need cross overs on each of them, so this is why I need two separate 4-channel amps with high-level inputs. Thanks for the help!
  22. Alright, so I've lurked on these forums for quite some time, and im now in the process of building my first real system so I would love some input/advice. For starters, I am a fan of Kicker L7's, I know a lot of people may hate on them but that is what I would like to run. My vehicle is a 2004 Tahoe LT. Currently I have 2 stinger spv44 batteries, a kicker zx2500.1 amp, a JVC touch screen head unit, and 1 4 ohm 15" L7 wired to a 2 ohm load in a super bass pro box. Im running 4 powerbass 6.5's in my doors, and 2 unknown tweeters (friend owns an installation shop and gave them to me for free). Everything else is still stock. My current setup is I have my stock everstart battery under the hood, im running 0 gauge wire from that battery (which I will reference to as Battery 1) to a stinger spv44 in the trunk (Battery 2), and then that is connected the other spv44 (battery 3) right beside it. I have 2 200 amperage fuses on the wire running from battery 1 to battery 2, the first fuse less than 12" from battery 1, and the 2nd fuse less than 12" from battery 2. I have wire connecting both of the positive terminals between batteries 2 and 3 and wire connecting both negative terminals between batteries 2 and 3. Battery 2 and battery 3 are also both grounded in separate locations. Im running wire from battery 3 to the zx2500.1 amp with another 200 amperage fuse on that wire leading to the amp. The amp is also grounded in a different location than battery 2 and 3. I plan to upgrade my system to 2 2 ohm 15" L7's here shortly to keep them at a 2 ohm load, build a vented box with separate air chambers, 6 cubic feet of air space per sub. Now that I have explained everything to (hopefully) provide all of the information that you need, here are my questions. 1) Do I have both of the extra batteries and the amp all wired up correctly? All of the wire ran is 0 gauge and there are only the 3 fuses listed in the set up described above, is there anything that I need to change related to how its wired? Do I need to upgrade the battery under my hood and/or my alternator? 2) I dont want my box to take up all of my trunk, I am an avid paintball player so I still need room in the back for my gear bag and cases of paint. If I was to put the box as close to behind the 2nd row of seats as I could so I still had room behind the box for my gear, would there be any significant SPL or SQ loss? 3) My 2nd row seats are bucket seats and not a bench and I currently have the amp mounted on the floor between them, It seemed like a great Idea at first but now im worried about someone potentially spilling something on the amp and ruining it, if the box is built with 1" thick MDF, could I safely mount the amp to the box or would it receive too much vibrations and damage it? The box will be carpeted and mounted to the floor. 4) I listen to all music from country to classic rock, to deathcore, to rap, to dubstep, so pretty much anything and everything, what would be the best Hz to tune the box to for good daily listening, I want the system to be loud, but I want as much of a full range as possible. 5) I want to amp the 6.5's and my tweeters, all of the 6.5's are 75 watt rms at 4 ohm (im not sure if they are DVC or not, can't remember) should I get a 4 or 6 channel amp, and what amp would you guys recommend for them? Currently the 1 l7 already overpowers them tremendously when running off of the headunit alone and thats with the zx2500's gain at 5%, and 0% on the bass boost. 6) Should I put support bars inside the box for those subs or do you think the wood will be thick enough to prevent any vibrations? 7) If mounting the amps on the box is a bad idea, all of my seats are leather, could I mount the amp im getting for the 6.5's/tweeters on the back of a leather seat or could/would that cause me any problems or be a bad idea? 8 ) I keep my EQ on my head unit on flat but the subwoofer level at +10, the treble in the music starts to distort at alot lower volumes when playing music off of my ipod (its EQ is also set to flat) which is connected via USB when compared to listening to music off of a CD. To explain a little better, I have these same songs on my itunes list, I burnt a CD with 10 of the songs and can go to volume 40 before it distorts, but when listening to the same songs from my ipod, they start to distort at volume 32, what is causing that? 9) Sense space is an issue here, is sub and port both up fine? I've been told sub up port back is better, but if I load up gear behind the box, I don't want to choke the port of air space. 10) Once I'm running 2 L7's, do you think those 6 speakers, even after being amplified will be enough to have a good balance of lows, mids, and high's? I would like to keep my subs as loud as I can without clipping them, but I still want to be able to hear the words haha. 11) With only having the sub amplified, the sub is slightly out of phase/delayed with rest of the music, this will be my first set up amping my mids/highs, will amping the mids/high's fix the slight delay that I hear? 12) This may be a bit un-related as far as I know, but about 2 weeks after my so far system install I got a check engine light with the message, "reduced engine power" and im now getting 0 throttle response. I was told by a certified mechanic that it is an electrical issue, do you think this was caused by my system or is it just a separate problem? I know I asked A LOT of questions but I want to have this system done right and I know the brilliant people of the SMD community have the answers. Any comments, help, answers or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks everybody! *P.S. if I put this in the wrong section, please just move it instead of deleting it and send me a PM as to where it was moved to, thanks again!
  23. A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
  24. Hey, I'm new to this forum and i have quite the order for a question. To start off, I own a 2002 Nissan Xterra. I have replaced the head unit and speakers with pioneer products. I currently have 2 15" subs that i bought fro someone for a cheap price in the trunk. I am looking for a big upgrade. I want way more power and way more sound. Possible even hairtricks? I don't know a lot about subs, amplifiers, etc. so I would need to know everything I need to buy and do. My budget is 1,500 dollars, Whats the best I can do? Thanks!
  25. If you would like to learn more about electricity, electrical networks, what RMS is, what clipping is, and much more to come; check out the D'Amore Engineering University FREE EDUCATION video series. We launched it last month, are averaging 1 video per week. Most of the time a homework problem is assigned at the end and answered in the next video. We are starting off slow and basic and will work up through how and amplifier works and more. Join us! -Tony http://damoreengineering.com/freeeducation.html
  • Create New...