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Found 14 results

  1. I’m using Bluetooth/Spotify as my only way to listen to music on my HU Could be this be the reason why the dd1 is not detecting distortion?? I have a marine head unit, Fusion ra670 along with a JL 800/8v2 amp. I'm using the dd1 and it won't or can't detect any distortion from my unit. Heres what I've tried. New batteries used are Rayovac and then Duracell. I've tried hooking the red probe to positive speaker terminal (positive puts out signal) and black probe to ground. I've tried hooking the red probe to positive speaker terminal along with black probe to negative speaker terminal. I turned the INPUT SENSITIVITY all the way down, filter mode switched off. Even turned frequency levels up on the 3rd try even tho it wasn't necessary. Went through all the settings in my head unit, put everything to flat in each zone, and turned off loud options as well. I used the 0db 1khz and 0db 40hz test tones from the Smd website via bluetooth. The dd1 detects signal at around 15 and 40hz at 16, same for 1khz track. I kept going up on volume and the dd1 could not detect any distortion for both tracks 1 and 2 test tones. My head unit max volume is 24. I also made sure each zone volume limiter was set to 24 as well. I also have a JL Rd 1500 amp with 2 subs, I did not test that yet since I've been trying to figure out what's going on? What am I doing wrong? or could it be my Deck is distortion free, which I doubt.
  2. im looking into doing a pretty big upgrade to my set up and need help with some things right now i have some cheap rockville all in 1 package and im looking into upgrading to 1 VFL american bass comp subwoofer 12" 2omh 5k rms 10k peak paired with a taramps 5k smart amp. i need advice/other things to add and or change to the list of stuff and project planning. as of now its looking like this Total cost so far 380$ 5000 watt rms subwoofer https://www.americanbassusa.com/products/vfl-comp-signature-12-subwoofer-refurbished?variant=44300921340127 20$ lots of fuses(need help on what amp fuses to get) 420$taramp amps https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-Amplifier-Multi-Impedance-Monoblock-Competition/dp/B099GBLBVC?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=A2JMACULMR9W48&sa=D&scrlybrkr=4d9242c5 100$ wood and stuff for box alr have most stuff (over estimate) 30$ wiring kit if needed https://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/bassik-0-gauge-amplifier-installation-wiring-kit/ 250$ battery pack(converting this to 12v) https://batteryhookup.com/products/super-beast-module-with-48-headway-38120-hp-3-2v-8ah-24v 600$ alternator (need help on what alternator to get)https://js-alternators.com/products/2016-2018-volkswagen-jetta-1-4l-250-320-370-400amp-high-output-alternator?variant=41638467895472 50$ probably more wiring for batteries and alternators 75$ misc/troubleshooting 2010$ -300$ for selling old set up 1710$ Phases of purchasing stuff probably over month or 2 1st phase sell current setup and install for someone then use money to buy subwoofer and fuse stuff 100(100) 2nd phase buy amplifier and stuff for a box- 600$ (700) 3rd phase build built box and buy misc wiring as needed- probably 50$ (750) 4th phase buy battery pack and wiring for it -300$ (1050) Hopefully everything is working good however will most likely continue 5th phase buy alternator and other stuff as needed 600-700$ (1700) Hoping to get all this done by mid spring/summer keep in mind im a teen going to school and working a job taking up 70 hr a week and have little knowledge on this stuff a lot more will probably go wrong or change throughout this but im doing this bc what i'll learn as i do it which is why i'll be installing everything myself and doing some diy stuff i have a good amount of money however obviously want to save money were money can be saved and would like to spend less to learn more
  3. I know I can strap two compatible amps together for double the power, so two 2000w 1-ohm stable amps should be 4000w 2-ohm, right? So could I wire the D1 sub to a 2-ohm load to the strapped amps at the 2-ohm load, or should I just buy the D2 ver. and run the amps to a single voice coil, or like wire the D2 sub to a 2ohm load. I'm using two CT-2000.1d amps and a single SunDown zv6 12 D1. Should I buy new parts or could I hook them up? I don't wanna blow this expensive gear, I can return them if I've made any mistakes in my calculations so.
  4. I have a chance to get an old school us amps usa 400. i was wondering if anyone had any reviews on this amp?
  5. I was wonder if i have more than 2 sub amps, how do i go about strapping the amps so that i only have one bass knob to ajust instead of 2. I want to run 4 amps. any info will help
  6. Allright i have been on here a long time. just browsing. i usually have nothing to add. im here to learn. i love cars and car audio. on my days off i go to my friends shop(who is doing the wall and the doors on my car) just to watch and be around cars. anyways im from eustis florida, and i will be at SBN 2012, so come check it out! heres the equipment that is/and will be going into it. subs stage.. 6 skar VVX 12s in a ported wall tuned to 36hz. Crescendo BC5500. knukonceptz OFC speaker wire, 8 gauge leads to 12 guage into the subs front stage.. 4 O2 audio component sets fiberglassed doors crescendo 1600.2 Misc. all knukoncepz wiring pioneer AVH-4300 DC power 270XP alternator. 3 G31 batteries in the back for now. second skin damp pro.. i feel like there is alot more to it but i cant think of it right now..i have everything except for the BC5500 which i am ordering next week. the wall and the doors will also be done next week and will of course post picture when that is done. heres a few pictures i have of my car and its current state. By boxman420 at 2012-02-02 By boxman420 at 2012-02-02 By boxman420 at 2011-11-16 By boxman420 at 2012-01-14 By boxman420 at 2012-01-14 By boxman420 at 2012-01-04 doors sound deadened and ready to go. By boxman420 at 2012-01-28 just a start to the doors By boxman420 at 2012-02-23 all the subs(big thanks to kevin at skar audio! ) i have a Crescendo BC2000 powering the subs in the box By boxman420 at 2012-02-23 well thanks everyone i hope you enjoy! and i will for sure have updates back up hopefully in the next week! and maybe some TL numbers
  7. on stock electrical still soon upgrading but for now its getting the job done, i need a new amp though probally around 2k-2.5k
  8. Since the unveiling of our A series amplifiers and before, I get the occasional email that reads "hey, I know you're busy, but could you design a few amps for me real quick" It usually makes me giggle a little and then smh. It takes me back to 1999 right before I started with RF. I also had no idea what was involved designing an amplifier from the ground up. No disrespect intended if you are reading this and have asked me to make you some amps before. How would you know what is involved if you haven't done it before? This has prompted me to go through literally thousands of photos on my phone and pull off any amplifier design pictures that have to do with the new amplifiers we just introduced. I will make my best attempt at posting them here in chronological order, and make some brief comments here and there. I also threw in a few pictures of my daughter taken during those times as a measure of time. The A series amplifiers are a direct COPY of the home audio amplifier I designed for my own use (changed power supply to 12VDC, added fans, remote turn on, balanced/unbalanced input and ability to put it into Class A/B mode (home amp is always class A)) so I have included the photos of designing that as well because all of the time I spent developing the circuits went directly into the mobile amplifiers. Ok enough of me talking.. On with the show! Before I build any circuit I like to try to simulate it in PSPICE, here you see a nice clean output and the predicted distortion My daughter was born during this time Here you see the power supply for the home amp. AC to DC supplies like this are very easy to design. The small circuit board is the input stage and voltage amplifier stage. This is where a lot of the magic is and many months of reading and testing were done to get it to work. Unfortunately I couldn't find any pictures during that time. We went through at least 3 different voltage amplifier designs, PCBs and testing before we came up with what we use today. Moved tested input stage and voltage amplifier stage onto main PCB instead of it having it's own PCB. (In the car amp it still has its own PCB for the least amount of noise possible) Each tiny resistor and transistor has been studied for voltage, current, and power dissipation. Prototyping the current amplifier stage It works! Now lets build 2 voltage amplifiers, 2 current amplifiers, connect them together and add a power supply! We also added a prototype SMD VU-DIN meter for S&G. Ok let's put this contraption in some kind of case so we can move it around without breaking anything. A SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno prototype case worked well Keeping the same case, I designed a simple face plate for it and had my machine shop CNC it. We put it all together with some prototype meters. Shown here on the distortion analyzer making a sweet ass sine wave with only 0.0068% THD! WHOA! Cleanest amp i've ever tested, home, pro, or car.
  9. We are building a demo vehicle for this upcoming CES (Jan 6 -10th) in Las Vegas! It is a 2015 Yukon, install being done by Handcrafted Car Audio of Chandler, Arizona. The Yukon is being built to showcase the amplifiers that will be unveiled at the CES Show. We have a booth in The Orleans Hotel where will be showing DiamondBoxx and SMD tools and meters, but no demo car there. The Yukon will be manned by our staff and will be mobile to give demos during the show as much as possible. We will also bring it out to the bassheads meet so people can take a look and listen. The amplifiers are high-end Class A dual monoblocks... more about those later. I will update this thread with pics as I get them. 2015 Yukon (2) D'Amore Engineering Dual Monoblock 1500.2 Class A / A/B amplifiers (2) Sets of 3-way components, Hertz High Energy HSK163 Audison Bit-One sound processor (3) Hertz High Energy 15 inch subwoofers HX 380 Audison Distribution Block and fusing CE Auto Electric Big 3 Upgrade CE AUto Electric 1/0 AWG OFC Front to Rear CE Auto Electric 4 AWG to amplifiers, 2 runs positive and negative to each amp because they are TRUE dual mono, one power supply per channel! Custom Dash pods, front door panels, subwoofer box and more by Handcrafted Car Audio ACRES of Premium Acoustic sound deadening by SoundSkins; doors, roof, hatch, etc 26 X 10 Giovanna Dramuno-6 Forged wheels 305/30/26 Pirelli Scorpion tires Big thanks to SoundSkins, CE Auto Electric, Elettromedia, and of course Handcrafted Car Audio More mods to come On to the pics --- sorry about the formatting I'm kind of a newb in forum posting -Tony D
  10. Would it be ok if i put a xs3100d in the trunk of my car? Would my alt be able to supply enough power for the 2 batteries? Also is is ok to have a smaller battery in front and a bigger one in the back? I would like to just put a 3400d in the trunk also instead of the 3100d if that would be enough power.
  11. Hey guys! Does anyone know if the DC amps use differential or single ended RCA inputs? Thanks to anyone who can help out!
  12. I have 1/0 AWG running from battery to trunk, into a distribution block, two 4 AWG wires out, one running to each amp. 4 AWG ground from each amp, both grounded to the frame of my car. one remote turnon wire from my head unit to trunk, cut and spliced to run to both amps. rca from head unit to trunk, split and running to both amps. each amp is bridged running one sub. amps are Legacy LA2970BK. my problem is this: yesterday, everything worked. today, one amp works, but the other doesnt. it has power, the blue trim on top of the amp lights up, but no pwer to the sub and neither the power led OR the protection mode led light up. ive checked everything, all wires are good, changed the fuses, and now the other amp goes into protection mode randomly. im stumped.
  13. i wanna buy a good amp to load 2 12" sony subs DVC 400 rms each or 2 kenwood 12" SVC 400 rms each so i did my research and i've heard about this amp DB DRIVE: PD2000.1 2000 Watt http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Mono-Car-Amplifier/DB-DRIVE-PD2000.1-2000-WATT-RMS-PLATINUM-MONO-AMPLIFIER/PD2000.1+RB.aspx is it a good and reliable amp or not is there any alternatives ?? and plz dot tell me to buy a rockford or sundown etc ..... ""I CAN'T AFFORD"" plz this is so important to me i need advise thanx
  14. i wanna buy a good amp to load 2 12" subs so i did my research and came out with these amps that will fit my subs RMS or a little bit more powerful and i can pay for so here what i came out with : Power Acoustik : 1) Demon D1-3000DB http://www.poweracou...s-D1-4000D.html 2) BAMF2600/2 http://www.poweracou...amf-2600-2.html PLANET AUDIO : RXD1400 1,900 WATT http://www.audiosavi...RXD1400+RB.aspx Crunch: PZA2000.1 2000 Watt http://www.audiosavi...RXD1400+RB.aspx DB DRIVE: PD2000.1 2000 Watt http://www.audiosavi...D2000.1+RB.aspx Hifonics: 1)Brutus BRZ1700.1 http://www.audiosavi...BRZ1700.1D.aspx 2)ZEUS ZRX1500.1D http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_3575wt_1344 3)HFI1500D http://www.audiosavi...m/HFI1500D.aspx plz this is so important to me i need advice thanx
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