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Found 84 results

  1. Hi, You guys probably see a lot of stupid questions in here and this might be one, but I gotta ask. So I got a rockfordfosgate 12" dual punch P2 sub/s and two amps, there is only one input on the enclosure. I got this setup from my sister and as of now the amps seem hooked up(I have barely touched it from one car to the other, only ran the wires as they were), but I feel like it lacks the expected punch it should have. Currently the two amps I have is one rockfordfosgate amp and another unknown 1500 watt amp(Dont remember the names so will edit them in later when I check.). They are wired as shown in the pic, I feel like this is not the correct way as it seems illogical and thats why I need help. How SHOULD it be wired so I can fix it?
  2. ncc74656

    need pics of HCCA 5000 splx

    i am trying to teach myself amp repair, i removed the rectifiers to separate power and output sections of teh board. i did not realize at the time that the 4 chips were different, some npn and others pnp. i hope someone can help as im stuck right now and dont know how to continue the repair with out this info i am looking for pictures of this HCCA amp with the board exposed and the retention plates off for the mosfets. i need to see the writing on the rectifiers on the center/outside edge of the board. i circled the spots here: https://imgur.com/EA7Gitc
  3. BassheadMS

    Help me get loud

    My system: all stock electrical. Walmart brand battery, think it's about 775 cca not sure. Hifonics Brutus Brz 2016.1d 2000 watt rms stable and wired at 1 ohm. Roughly 5.7 cu ft {gross} 4.3 {net} ported sub up/ port back enclosure. port is 4" wide 13.5 tall 28" long after cabin gain I think she's tuned to around 34 hz. 2) Skar Audio EVL 12's dual 4's. So my subs are displaced, not side by side, but like -- _ ... I'm concerned that the placement of the subs vs. where the subs are/ or box size or port size is maybe making one of my subs bottom out? I'm just looking for tips and tricks with my setup. Any advice is greatly appreciated, I'm running 2 strands of 4 gauge power and 2 gauge ground btw. What can I do to make this thing a ground pounder?? Not so worried about metering, just wanna be heard and shake everything up. Shes loud but I feel like there's room for improvements with what I've got . Thanks guys
  4. Hey guys, I have a few quick questions, and I think this is the correct place to ask them. First off, here is a quick link to my setup - https://imgur.com/a/YFlwk (four TREO SSX15.22 subs with four Memphis 1000D amps [one per sub]). Now, for the main questions. I have my wall of 15's running 4 1k watt amps. I'm considering upgrading amps and looking at maybe two 4000 watt amps, or even two 4500's, but I'm completely unaware of what amplifier brands are leading right now. These Memphis' are almost 10 years old, yet they still work wonderfully. I just want to put more power down, have a little more fun. Could anyone point me in the direction of some better name brands? I'm not exactly positive on how much I'm open to spending, but if I can keep it under $1,200 that would be a good start (my mother is already irritated I have $600 in the truck, haha). Follow up question! My amps (seen in the pictures at the base (lol) of the wall) are surrounded by a custom piece that fits the interior look of the truck. When my dad had the setup installed, he didn't have fans implanted because he only really cranked it up here and there, so they would never get super warm. However, I live in an area with a lot of other teenagers, so I turn it up fairly frequently and they definitely get warm, though I try not to get them searing, after all, I do need them to last. My question is, if I upgrade to, let's say two 4k dual channel amps, would they heat up faster? The reason I ask is I was thinking, if an amp is powering one sub, it only has so much pull. But once it starts powering two, you have double the pull and I would assume they would get hot quickly. Maybe it would be smarter to get four 2k amps? If this makes no sense, just keep in mind it's 1am. I'll elaborate as needed. Thanks for any and all help guys!
  5. Anybody running Twisted Sounds amp(s)? From what I hear they are consistently underrated, so I'm about to grab a TS1.8k (rated 1800w) for my DC XL122 (rated 2200w) and I'm fairly confident this amp's actual numbers will go beyond the needs of my XL. The TS2.8k dyno was impressive. Any experience with the 1.8k or others in the TS line? Thoughts and opinions go...
  6. Good day SMD community, About to undertake electrical wiring upgrade on my 2017 F-150 3.5L EcoBoost XLT. Alternator is not super accessible so I'm thinking this may be tricky and wondering if anyone else has done big 3 on a 2015 up f-150 and can provide some direction. Pics and tricks for this specific vehicle would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  7. Hey, I'm new to this forum and i have quite the order for a question. To start off, I own a 2002 Nissan Xterra. I have replaced the head unit and speakers with pioneer products. I currently have 2 15" subs that i bought fro someone for a cheap price in the trunk. I am looking for a big upgrade. I want way more power and way more sound. Possible even hairtricks? I don't know a lot about subs, amplifiers, etc. so I would need to know everything I need to buy and do. My budget is 1,500 dollars, Whats the best I can do? Thanks!
  8. Okay, so I have been doing some research on running a 14v or possibly a 16v system for my sub stage. I have found a lot of useful information, but I still have a few questions. My plan would be to keep my factory alt and 12v battery for the factory electrical components, and then run two 270a alts externally regulated to charge at 14v or 16v (Undecided). I know if I do this I will need a bank of batteries at decided voltage (14v or 16v). The amp I will be running is the Incriminator IA40.1, which can handle up to 19v. I will be running 6 Sound cubed HDS3 12s, which are rated at 1200rms a piece, Roughly 7200rms total. I have found out my 12v and 14v or 16v system can share a common ground with no issue. So I guess my main question is, will running a higher voltage system cause added strain on the amplifier or alternators. I have read that higher voltage systems can be unpredictable, but from what I picked up this was only if you were to try to run a single system with step downs etc. and not have two isolated systems. Basically what I would like to know, is what are the cons of running a 14v or 16v system over a 12v system. This will be my daily.. (kind of, I have a back up truck) but it is not a competition vehicle.
  9. Hello everyone i have a relatively mid powered system. I am having a issue with my electric system. I know this topic is being discussed million times, but I'm not sure what to believe. my system is as follows: pionner unit x2700bs 6.2" touchscreen pioneer gm-d9605 5 channel amp, 4x 75watts @ 4ohm and 1x 600 watts @ 2ohm (2000watts max) class d amp two nvx 6.5 speakers @50watts and two nvx 6x9 @ 55 watts, plus, two 12" rockford fosgate single [email protected] p1s4-12 connected in parallel for a final impidence of 2ohms, 250watts each, 500 -600 watts total 4 guage wire for + and - of the amp 14 guage speaker wires/ 8 guage amp wires stock alternator 110amps xspower d1200 battery big 3 upgrade with 1/0 guage wire from xspower kit All gains set properly with smd dd1 deck clips at 38 out of 40 but i never pass 31 my problem is that my headlights dims when the bass hits, and also i have voltage drops when the bass hits, at the battery terminals it goes from 13.8 to 12.5, or even lower. At the amp terminals its always 12.8 and it drops to 11.2 or lower. I also noticed a change of the engine noise, meaning that when the bass hits, looks like the rpms are affected or something, because the noise reduces every time the bass hits. I would like to play loud, but also not stress out my other electrics/electronics in my car. any suggestions?
  10. Hey I have 2 stroker subs... I have 2 of the STKR124 and I'm going to run them in parallel for a final 1 ohm impedance. So I was looking for a good amp that puts out about 2400 watts at 1 ohm. So far I have been looking at the: incriminator IA20.1, sundown's SCV-2000D, sound qubed's Q2200, Hifonics BRX2400.1, Rockford's T2500-1bdCP. I know these amps are a different price range but I am just curious on which amp would be worth it. I can get the Rockford T2500 for about a thousand but I still think that's a lot of money. So does anyone like any of these amps or any other amps? So anyways does anyone know of a good amp to power my particular subs. Preferably a good quality one that wouldn't blow my subs and that isn't too expensive?
  11. A week ago I upgraded my old Kinetik battery to an XS Power AGM D925 in hopes to help my headlight dimming. It helps but not completely and the dimming comes back hard after about 10 minutes playtime. Voltage drops from 14.1 to 12/13 volts within 15 minutes max if playing it constantly. I'm running one Sundown SA12 by an oldschool KOLE Audio HK620-2 amplifier in bridge mode 620 Watts I think. Low power for this sub I know but it sounds fantastic and flexes everything. Cannot find much info on my KOLE amp and I know its not class D. If I got a newer "Class D" amp would it lessen my headlight dimming? Also, did the big 3 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire, and 2 gauge wire going from under hood to trunk XS battery and amp. Have a brand new Bosch battery under the hood as well, and XS battery is connected using a stinger relay/isolator so they're not connected when car is off. Stock 110Amp alternator. Upgrading alternator not an option. Every single thing in my car is grounded properly. After fully charging XS D925 battery externally and installing it still dims after 5-10 minutes and sometimes immediately depending on the song I'm playing. I'm starting to think my KOLE amp is causing these dimming issues somehow. What do you think?
  12. bluegmcjimmy

    anybody familiar with MaAudio

    as titled, i have a ma audio 589i anybody use them before?
  13. bluegmcjimmy

    3 or more amplifiers install help

    Ok this is a noob question, how do you stall 3 amps or more safely?
  14. Hey all. I'd like to wire an "accessory relay" and manual on/off switch for my amps and internal lighting (all currently connected to remote turn on wire behind head unit). How would I wire up a relay with a switch? Ideally the switch will turn on the amps and everything when my car is OFF and everything comes on when car comes on no matter if the switch is on or off.
  15. Hey folks. First post here and I love the forum. I am trying to find out if I can run a high-level input from my factory head-unit to two separate amps (i.e. put a T in the head-unit output and run each to a small amp). I have a Jeep Wrangler JK, and have the top down/doors off a lot. I need to keep the cheap ugly OEM radio for anti-theft reasons. The OEM radio is TERRIBLE, but I am stuck with trying to polish a turd. I also can't have a sub in the back, or someone could just reach in and walk away with it. Everything will look stock when I am done with it. My plan is have: 2x 3.5" speakers in dash. 2x 5.25" subwoofers in the sealed lower dash pods. 2x 6.5" coaxials in sound bar above my head. 2x bass-shakers in the seats. and 2x JL HX 280/4 amplifiers hidden under the dash I need cross overs on each of them, so this is why I need two separate 4-channel amps with high-level inputs. Thanks for the help!
  16. been awhile since i posted last, so here goes.. system run down 99 explorer sport 4.0 4x4 1 0ga power run to the back big 3 done in 0ga 1000ca battery up front optima yellow top in back grounds are to chassis with 0ga wire 2- brz1700.1 amps running 1 ohm per amp 2- soundqubed hds315 dual 2ohm 8cf box with a small octoport ( free box to start out with ) pionner avh280bt head unit pac lc-1 bass knob we did a 147.1db and clamped at 711rms per amp at 43hz. we did that on stock 95amp alt and since then installed a H/O 250amp. by ear seems a little louder, clamped it and is at 768rms at 14.5v on rear battery so gained a little.. have skyhigh 2/0 coming to replace the 0ga power run, hoping to get more voltage to the rear and up the rms again, will see come next weekend.. our delema is horrible box rise i was told so we are not getting close to rated from our amps. did a clamp test at .5ohm and got 646rms. have the plans and cut sheet for a spec box for these subs but am wondering a box change/ more port area could help the box rise and gain us rms? we are just starting out on the audio scene.. we have plans on building a 4th order b pillar wall and am curious on something. we could do a 4 hds315 4th order with our current amps. friend said it should be louder because of more cone area, or do a 2 hds315 4th order with a cab1600.1 or ta1.3000d amp at .5ohm.. curious on thoughts as we are doing our 2nd comp oct 1st.. and we are aiming for a 150. so spec ported box on more power, 4th with 2 subs on more power, or 4 15s in a 4th with our current amps and see how it goes..
  17. HAS ANYONE BOUGHT THE CAR AUDIO BARGAIN 1600.1? IF SO I WOULD LIKE SOME FEEDBACK ABOUT THIS AMP AND HOW IT HANDLES I HAVE ONLY HAD THE CHANCE OF WATCHING MEADES AMP TEST ON THIS PRODUCT. WHICH LED ME TO BUY ONE JUST THIS FRIDAY.
  18. The tests went as follows: 2 ohm certified: 1155 @14.05v 2 ohm dynamic: 1303 @14.31v 1 ohm certified: 1532 @14.52v 1 ohm uncertified: 1936 @13.79v 1 ohm dynamic: 2279 @14.14v .8 ohm dynamic: 284 [email protected] .67 dynamic: 3148 @14.24v Musical dynamic tests (using a song, not a test tone) 1 ohm: 2398 @14.64v .67 ohm: 3581 @14.7v .5 ohm: 4081 @14.13 The video to this test is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ztCxogz8gs4&feature=youtu.be
  19. 4 Lengths of 2 ft 1 Length of 2 ft 9" 1 Length of 3 ft 1 Lengths of 15ft 6" 8 ANL Fuses (300x2)(250x5)(100x2) Inline ANL fuse holders Approx 100ft Speaker wire (14 Gauge) Mixed Bag of 0 Gauge, 4 Gauge, 8 Gauge and Speaker Terminals/Crimps 1 Set of Monster Battery Terminals RCA Adjustable Line Output Converter Set of 0 Gauge Ground Terminals Set of 90degree RCA adapters $50+shipping for everything in BOLD above. I REALLY DO NOT WANT TO SEPARATE IT! No trades. IF YOU'RE LOCAL TO NASHVILLE YOU CAN CHECK THE STUFF OUT IN PERSON IF YOU LIKE
  20. We are building a demo vehicle for this upcoming CES (Jan 6 -10th) in Las Vegas! It is a 2015 Yukon, install being done by Handcrafted Car Audio of Chandler, Arizona. The Yukon is being built to showcase the amplifiers that will be unveiled at the CES Show. We have a booth in The Orleans Hotel where will be showing DiamondBoxx and SMD tools and meters, but no demo car there. The Yukon will be manned by our staff and will be mobile to give demos during the show as much as possible. We will also bring it out to the bassheads meet so people can take a look and listen. The amplifiers are high-end Class A dual monoblocks... more about those later. I will update this thread with pics as I get them. 2015 Yukon (2) D'Amore Engineering Dual Monoblock 1500.2 Class A / A/B amplifiers (2) Sets of 3-way components, Hertz High Energy HSK163 Audison Bit-One sound processor (3) Hertz High Energy 15 inch subwoofers HX 380 Audison Distribution Block and fusing CE Auto Electric Big 3 Upgrade CE AUto Electric 1/0 AWG OFC Front to Rear CE Auto Electric 4 AWG to amplifiers, 2 runs positive and negative to each amp because they are TRUE dual mono, one power supply per channel! Custom Dash pods, front door panels, subwoofer box and more by Handcrafted Car Audio ACRES of Premium Acoustic sound deadening by SoundSkins; doors, roof, hatch, etc 26 X 10 Giovanna Dramuno-6 Forged wheels 305/30/26 Pirelli Scorpion tires Big thanks to SoundSkins, CE Auto Electric, Elettromedia, and of course Handcrafted Car Audio More mods to come On to the pics --- sorry about the formatting I'm kind of a newb in forum posting -Tony D
  21. I recently ordered a soundqubed HDC 3.15 D1, (thanks to helpful recommendations from members here), and am hung up on which amp to order. I was warned a 2000 watt amp would require full electrical upgrades. I believe I'm currently running the stock 117 amp alternator (will confirm that soon) in my 98 jeep cherokee with a gm-d8604 amp to four coax speakers. I will be upgrading my battery cables and alternator cables to 1 awg soon. If I went with the q1-2200.2 what would be the best but cheapest way to power that? I've looked into h.o. alternators but I'm not sure. Additional batteries? I know the HDC 3.15 can take more but how much power would the q1-1200.2 require and what minimum electrical upgrades would I need for that? Any other amp suggestions for the HDC 3,15 with minimal electrical upgrades needed? Thanks for all the help, I'm trying to search for box plans myself, but any advice on that is welcome too.
  22. Billy Santana

    Need help finding the proper amp

    I have a Orion HCCA 12.4, I am going to be setting it up in the summer but for now im just trying to buy everything I need. The sub is rated for 2,000 watts RMS, I want a quality amp that can push this beast. my budget is 550 or so, would rather not reach my budgets max but if necessary I will. Thank you for your time. Any suggestions are appreciated and btw I will most likely be running the sub in parallel dropping the Ohm to 2 Ohms
  23. Since the unveiling of our A series amplifiers and before, I get the occasional email that reads "hey, I know you're busy, but could you design a few amps for me real quick" It usually makes me giggle a little and then smh. It takes me back to 1999 right before I started with RF. I also had no idea what was involved designing an amplifier from the ground up. No disrespect intended if you are reading this and have asked me to make you some amps before. How would you know what is involved if you haven't done it before? This has prompted me to go through literally thousands of photos on my phone and pull off any amplifier design pictures that have to do with the new amplifiers we just introduced. I will make my best attempt at posting them here in chronological order, and make some brief comments here and there. I also threw in a few pictures of my daughter taken during those times as a measure of time. The A series amplifiers are a direct COPY of the home audio amplifier I designed for my own use (changed power supply to 12VDC, added fans, remote turn on, balanced/unbalanced input and ability to put it into Class A/B mode (home amp is always class A)) so I have included the photos of designing that as well because all of the time I spent developing the circuits went directly into the mobile amplifiers. Ok enough of me talking.. On with the show! Before I build any circuit I like to try to simulate it in PSPICE, here you see a nice clean output and the predicted distortion My daughter was born during this time Here you see the power supply for the home amp. AC to DC supplies like this are very easy to design. The small circuit board is the input stage and voltage amplifier stage. This is where a lot of the magic is and many months of reading and testing were done to get it to work. Unfortunately I couldn't find any pictures during that time. We went through at least 3 different voltage amplifier designs, PCBs and testing before we came up with what we use today. Moved tested input stage and voltage amplifier stage onto main PCB instead of it having it's own PCB. (In the car amp it still has its own PCB for the least amount of noise possible) Each tiny resistor and transistor has been studied for voltage, current, and power dissipation. Prototyping the current amplifier stage It works! Now lets build 2 voltage amplifiers, 2 current amplifiers, connect them together and add a power supply! We also added a prototype SMD VU-DIN meter for S&G. Ok let's put this contraption in some kind of case so we can move it around without breaking anything. A SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno prototype case worked well Keeping the same case, I designed a simple face plate for it and had my machine shop CNC it. We put it all together with some prototype meters. Shown here on the distortion analyzer making a sweet ass sine wave with only 0.0068% THD! WHOA! Cleanest amp i've ever tested, home, pro, or car.
  24. I'm wondering what the most efficient amps are in your experiences in the 2,000-5,000 watt(RMS of course) range. My last amp before I sold it(bad habit selling my systems) was a Digital Designs M4(current model) and I ran it on basically stock charging in my Ford Ranger. The lowest I seen my voltage drop to was 12.6 volts and I was running it @1ohm on two DD 715s. Now I'm in the market for something else really efficient for a 99 Civic install which probably has a 60amp alternator so I'll be most likely buying a H/O alt. Anyhow, please post awesome amps that are super efficient to your knowledge. I know Rockford has those amps jam packed with caps that are super bada$$ but probably out of my reach(budget). I did search as well before posting and didn't exactly come up with the results I wanted. Thanks in advance guys.
  25. I was going to get an aftermarket head unit. I want to hold off on that because, I like how everything that I use works with the current head unit in my car... I learned of the Audio Control LC2i... is that going to be good for what I want to do? I plan on using 1 10 inch sub to a monoblock, and 4 6.5 inch coaxial components to a 4 channel amp... I don't want to spend too much. Any input or advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks
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