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Found 21 results

  1. Alright so lets go ahead and get right to the point, i have a 01 Toyota Camry and it has a 90 amp alternator and a stock battery, well brand new but just a regular o'reilys battery. and i did the big 3. Im planning to stick with stock alt and stock battery, so i'm stuck trying to decide what amp to go with, i have 2 skar audio ddx-12's and currently have the good old trusty (audio bahn fire amp) on them right now. I have narrowed my choices down to 3 amps, ill order in them in favoritism. 1. skar audio rp1500.1d 2. soundqubed s1-1250 3. skar audio rp1200.1d. what amp would work best with the power i have currently, and non rev matching either, just good ole idle power. All comments appreciative lol.
  2. Hey everyone, I got two Jbl w12gti mkii's in a custom made l port box tuned to 34 hz. I'm looking to get a new amplifier, but once i wire these guys in parallel their 1.5 ohms. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sub factory specs 700rms I hear that its under rated. 4000w a piece. 6 ohm load (12 series, 3 parallel)
  3. Hello Everyone, It's been awhile since I've been on the forum, but I'm in the midst of my new audio build and I've run into some issues. I'd really like help to problem solve these issues. I'm running an active 2 way front stage and a 12" sub in the rear. First things first, here is a short run down of the parts related to my issues: H/U= Pioneer 80prs. network mode. internal amp off. running directly to my 4 channel amp and sub signal to my monoblock. 4-chan amp: Jensen Power 400.4 rated at 75w rms @ 4 ohms per channel monoblock: Hifonics brutus brx1600.1 First issue. I was beginning to set the gains on my amps, but when setting them I can only seem to turn the gains about 5 to 10 degrees above minimal gain before distortion on both amps. I'm using a DSO oscilloscope to see distortion in the signal. On the 4 channel amp, I measured 4.9v from the deck and nearly 17v out of the amp. Does that sound right? The math seems to check out. 17v on a 4 ohm load gives 4.25 amps equalling 72ish watts. Is it normal to only turn the gain knob a few degrees? Issue two. Stick with me for this one. Since the 80prs' high frequency outputs lowest setting is about 1.25kHz, I used the midrange rca's to set the gains for the tweeters and mids. I used a 100hz and 1k Hz test tones at 0db , -2.5db, and -5db. During this test is when I noticed an issue. I had the drivers side speaker wires unplugged from the amp and all rca's unplugged except the driver side mid rca. I had that plugged into channel 4 which is set up to be the driver mid. (note: channels 3/4 share a gain and 1/2 have a gain, so 3/4 are mids and 1/2 are tweets.) When I played a 1k Hz tone into channel 4 (driver side mid) I heard an audible, but low volume tone out of the passenger mid. I played pink noise to test and I heard an even more noticeable static sound out of the passenger mid. Now I might be wrong, but if the rca for that channel is unplugged, shouldn't that speaker be completely silent? Just another thing, I left all the gains where the scope showed clean signal, where I left it was set using a 100Hz -2.5db tone at max headunit volume, and playing music at max volume the sound is what I would call regular driving volume. It is not loud. You can definitely talk to the passenger with the volume at max. There should be more volume. In the previous build, I had the same amps and a pioneer avh double din and the gains were set by ear. That system got so much louder it's laughable. The last build the gains were set at around 75% with no audible distortion. Now they are at around 10%. So I'm curious, bad amp? bad scope? Help, Please.
  4. I have a problem, therefore I have a question lol. I am running (2) PPI 5000.1 (1700 RMS @2 Ohm) This was an upgrade from a American Bass Ph4k. I have them run to (2) Re audio sxx 15's. I clearly noticed a difference in output from the woofers I went from a 143 to a 147. The problem is that even though I've had the gains set by scope I am getting "fighting" between the subs which I know is causing cancellation. I didn't have this problem running a single amp. So I'm wondering ... I'm using a stereo input RCA into the 1st out of the 1st and into the second. Would running a Y combiner creating a mono signal stop this? Would I lose input power if I did this? My theory is that my subs are trying to hit as stereo vs. mono and causing the problem, but I'm just guessing. Thanks in advance and by all means don't hesitate to call me an idiot,just so long as you have an answer!
  5. If you would like to learn more about electricity, electrical networks, what RMS is, what clipping is, and much more to come; check out the D'Amore Engineering University FREE EDUCATION video series. We launched it last month, are averaging 1 video per week. Most of the time a homework problem is assigned at the end and answered in the next video. We are starting off slow and basic and will work up through how and amplifier works and more. Join us! -Tony http://damoreengineering.com/freeeducation.html
  6. I am going to get a supplemental battery in the trunk and I will connect it to the main starter battery (positive to positive and negative to negative). I have an amp in the back for my subs and an amp (for my speakers) mounted to the passenger side of the center console by the feet. Do I have to run wire back to the supplemental battery from the amp that is in the front of the car, or can I just keep it connected to the starter battery? I don't THINK it would matter since the batteries are connected with each other, but I 'm not sure. If you need details or pictures just look at my garage, it is the 2007 ford fusion.
  7. i wanted to know which subwoofer brand is the best kicker or dc audio or any other brand??, i have the following amplifier with me of 1000 rms http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m1000 if i install a sub of more than 1000rms for e.g. 1200 or 1400 , will it under perform compared to a sub of exact 1000rms installed on MY amplifier(1000rms)???? money is it not issue please suggest good subs of 15 inch !! and the 15 inch sub should be of 2 ohm or 4 ohm???what would be the difference performance wise??
  8. Hey everybody. Within the next year I'm looking to put a system in my 2000 Chevy Tahoe. I originally planned on doing two Rockford Fosgate T2 12s and a T2500. Well i have been looking around quite a lot and I've become interested in Sundown Audio. Does anyone have any reviews on their x12 dual 2 subwoofer and the SAZ-5000D Amplifier? Also my budget is about 700-900 for subwoofers, and somewhere under the 2,000 range for the amp. So all suggestions are appreciated and taken seriously. But i would like to go with anything above 2500 watts. Any other Companies i should be taking seriously, companies with good pricing? (rockford seems to charge a lot just for their name) P.s Again, if you have any other ideas, please feel free to post them Thankyou, Jon
  9. Ok so I'm planning on putting a new system in my 2010 gmc Sierra. My biggest issue is space. i have to put the woofers under my seats so I have limited options for enclosures. If i got a prefab box it would be around .8 cubic feet per sub since im planning on doing dual 10's. i was thinking of doing two sundown sa-10's with a saz 1200 or 1500. My biggest question is whether that would work well with .8 cubic feet per sub and with the box being shaped to fit under the back seat. i'm not sure whether the shape of the box has anything to do with it, but the current box i have is an Atrend bbox for a 2007 and newer crew cab gm truck. whatever setup i end up going with im going to run 1/0 and probably do the big three with it too.
  10. We are building a demo vehicle for this upcoming CES (Jan 6 -10th) in Las Vegas! It is a 2015 Yukon, install being done by Handcrafted Car Audio of Chandler, Arizona. The Yukon is being built to showcase the amplifiers that will be unveiled at the CES Show. We have a booth in The Orleans Hotel where will be showing DiamondBoxx and SMD tools and meters, but no demo car there. The Yukon will be manned by our staff and will be mobile to give demos during the show as much as possible. We will also bring it out to the bassheads meet so people can take a look and listen. The amplifiers are high-end Class A dual monoblocks... more about those later. I will update this thread with pics as I get them. 2015 Yukon (2) D'Amore Engineering Dual Monoblock 1500.2 Class A / A/B amplifiers (2) Sets of 3-way components, Hertz High Energy HSK163 Audison Bit-One sound processor (3) Hertz High Energy 15 inch subwoofers HX 380 Audison Distribution Block and fusing CE Auto Electric Big 3 Upgrade CE AUto Electric 1/0 AWG OFC Front to Rear CE Auto Electric 4 AWG to amplifiers, 2 runs positive and negative to each amp because they are TRUE dual mono, one power supply per channel! Custom Dash pods, front door panels, subwoofer box and more by Handcrafted Car Audio ACRES of Premium Acoustic sound deadening by SoundSkins; doors, roof, hatch, etc 26 X 10 Giovanna Dramuno-6 Forged wheels 305/30/26 Pirelli Scorpion tires Big thanks to SoundSkins, CE Auto Electric, Elettromedia, and of course Handcrafted Car Audio More mods to come On to the pics --- sorry about the formatting I'm kind of a newb in forum posting -Tony D
  11. Since the unveiling of our A series amplifiers and before, I get the occasional email that reads "hey, I know you're busy, but could you design a few amps for me real quick" It usually makes me giggle a little and then smh. It takes me back to 1999 right before I started with RF. I also had no idea what was involved designing an amplifier from the ground up. No disrespect intended if you are reading this and have asked me to make you some amps before. How would you know what is involved if you haven't done it before? This has prompted me to go through literally thousands of photos on my phone and pull off any amplifier design pictures that have to do with the new amplifiers we just introduced. I will make my best attempt at posting them here in chronological order, and make some brief comments here and there. I also threw in a few pictures of my daughter taken during those times as a measure of time. The A series amplifiers are a direct COPY of the home audio amplifier I designed for my own use (changed power supply to 12VDC, added fans, remote turn on, balanced/unbalanced input and ability to put it into Class A/B mode (home amp is always class A)) so I have included the photos of designing that as well because all of the time I spent developing the circuits went directly into the mobile amplifiers. Ok enough of me talking.. On with the show! Before I build any circuit I like to try to simulate it in PSPICE, here you see a nice clean output and the predicted distortion My daughter was born during this time Here you see the power supply for the home amp. AC to DC supplies like this are very easy to design. The small circuit board is the input stage and voltage amplifier stage. This is where a lot of the magic is and many months of reading and testing were done to get it to work. Unfortunately I couldn't find any pictures during that time. We went through at least 3 different voltage amplifier designs, PCBs and testing before we came up with what we use today. Moved tested input stage and voltage amplifier stage onto main PCB instead of it having it's own PCB. (In the car amp it still has its own PCB for the least amount of noise possible) Each tiny resistor and transistor has been studied for voltage, current, and power dissipation. Prototyping the current amplifier stage It works! Now lets build 2 voltage amplifiers, 2 current amplifiers, connect them together and add a power supply! We also added a prototype SMD VU-DIN meter for S&G. Ok let's put this contraption in some kind of case so we can move it around without breaking anything. A SMD AD-1 Amp Dyno prototype case worked well Keeping the same case, I designed a simple face plate for it and had my machine shop CNC it. We put it all together with some prototype meters. Shown here on the distortion analyzer making a sweet ass sine wave with only 0.0068% THD! WHOA! Cleanest amp i've ever tested, home, pro, or car.
  12. I am working all the details out on an upcoming build and was wondering if anyone has recessed amps in fold down seats I've seen people cutting out then foam on the bottom of seats and fiberglassing it for a sub box I'm just curious if it would work for an amp and in theory its no different that putting the amp under a false floor/wall any input is appreciated
  13. So I'm getting an amp for my 6.5 Infinity Reference speakers, here are the specs: Peak Power: 180 watts Power Handling, RMS: 60 watts Nominal Impedance: 3 ohms Frequency Response: 53Hz-21kHz Sensitivity (2.83V/1m): 93dB "Nominal Impedance: 3 ohms" What does this rating mean, and why isn't it at an even number of ohms? Main question, when choosing an amplifier how do I match this rating to what output I will have?
  14. Ok so just getting ideas on what amp I should use for 2 orion hcca 15.2. I was given a couple ideas like hifonics xx-maximus 10k and ppi 10k but not to sure about these amps so any ideas will help
  15. Only $1,200 each, look at those BEAST 130 oz magnets, eclipse TI looking cones but not metal, and surrounds LOL!!! This is a good read http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Shockwave-15-Premium-Subwoofer-High-end-Car-Audio-/260728540162?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item3cb4a1cc02
  16. I’ve recently installed a type r 15 inch dual 4ohm in a sealed 2.5 cubic ft box on a alpine mrp-m1000 in a bmw e63 6 series with logic 7 stereo. I tapped into the subwoofer wires and hooked up a hi to low converter and I have some problems. the first is that some songs just don’t hit hard at all and others hit really well. I know they hit from my last system same amp different subs. Then I have set the gain with a multimeter and where it is quite high I get a pop when I start the car if I bought an audio control lci2 would it allow me to lower the gain and get rid of the pop. Another problem is some songs the levels are way out like the volume is at 5% but the sub is at 65-75% only on this stereo. Please help
  17. I'm thinking about getting 2 12w7's or 2 12w6's. What amplifier is recommended with 2 12w7v3's and what amp is recommended with 2 12w6v3's. Would i have to get more batteries and a high output alternator with the 2 w6's because i know i will have to with 2 w7's. Thank you. What kind of enclosure should i use also?
  18. i wanted to know which subwoofer brand is the best kicker or dc audio or any other brand??, i have the following amplifier with me of 1000 rms http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m1000 if i install a sub of more than 1000rms for e.g. 1200 or 1400 , will it under perform compared to a sub of exact 1000rms installed on MY amplifier(1000rms)???? money is it not issue please suggest good subs of 15 inch !! and the 15 inch sub should be of 2 ohm or 4 ohm???what would be the difference performance wise??
  19. Hey guys I need your recommendations and advice on a new speaker upgrade I want to do in my 03 tacoma extended cab.I am planning on installing 6.5 component speakers. My budget is $550 for both front and rear speakers. I do plan on adding a sub later on, my headunit choice will most likely be a pioneer single din. What I want is good quality with clean accurate sound and with good mid bass. I do plan on running a 4 channel amp as well, so if you guys have any recommendations for that too please let me know. Thanks!
  20. Hey guys, I have a few quick questions, and I think this is the correct place to ask them. First off, here is a quick link to my setup - https://imgur.com/a/YFlwk (four TREO SSX15.22 subs with four Memphis 1000D amps [one per sub]). Now, for the main questions. I have my wall of 15's running 4 1k watt amps. I'm considering upgrading amps and looking at maybe two 4000 watt amps, or even two 4500's, but I'm completely unaware of what amplifier brands are leading right now. These Memphis' are almost 10 years old, yet they still work wonderfully. I just want to put more power down, have a little more fun. Could anyone point me in the direction of some better name brands? I'm not exactly positive on how much I'm open to spending, but if I can keep it under $1,200 that would be a good start (my mother is already irritated I have $600 in the truck, haha). Follow up question! My amps (seen in the pictures at the base (lol) of the wall) are surrounded by a custom piece that fits the interior look of the truck. When my dad had the setup installed, he didn't have fans implanted because he only really cranked it up here and there, so they would never get super warm. However, I live in an area with a lot of other teenagers, so I turn it up fairly frequently and they definitely get warm, though I try not to get them searing, after all, I do need them to last. My question is, if I upgrade to, let's say two 4k dual channel amps, would they heat up faster? The reason I ask is I was thinking, if an amp is powering one sub, it only has so much pull. But once it starts powering two, you have double the pull and I would assume they would get hot quickly. Maybe it would be smarter to get four 2k amps? If this makes no sense, just keep in mind it's 1am. I'll elaborate as needed. Thanks for any and all help guys!
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