2007TBSS

I know that ring that goes around the ground wires is a power management system that senses current draw and adjusts current from the alternator to the battery accordingly. But I wonder if there is anything that senses off those factory ring terminals. Kinda like how they say not to replace the factory wires in the big 3, only piggy back them for a similar reason I think.

Cut the entire ring off and insert the stripped back factory wires into a terminal block or cut the plastic off the terminals and use the factory rings on top of the new terminal blocks?

This may or may not be a retarded question, but I'll ask anyways. Can I cut the factory ends off the wires coming to the battery and strip them back and insert them into a custom terminal block? I'm gonna whip up a program and make my own terminals out of billet. I can do whatever hole pattern I want and the cleaner it looks the better as far as I'm concerned. Can I cut off the power and ground ends, loop the ground wires through the power management sensor and insert the wires into their own hole in the terminals or is there some sort of sensors that will get messed up if I do? Worst case scenario, I can cut the plastic covering back to where the wires merge and leave the rest so it will mount flat on top of the block right?

I checked out this dude on eBay CopperCableMan and he sounds legit. I'm gonna check him out when I do mine. In all honesty I know jack shit about 1/0 but this is what he said to me. I'm gonna order next week I think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAdMF1Tv6wc

lol there worth more then that They're only worth what someone will pay for them.

Give ya $100 shipped for those BTLS.

This bad MF.

Crazy. Wonder what the TV's at CES will look like 10 years from now.

There is a pretty good wire comparison here Just read the whole thing! Thanks for posting!

While I'm positive that's quality stuff, the question is do I NEED $400 worth of 1/0 to run $300 worth of amps.

Meaning it's the copper jacketed aluminum? I'm not sure I'm up to speed on the CCA and OFC thing yet. Maybe I should read up on that first. Big difference in conductivity? Dammit, I just wanted to throw down on some decent 1.0. Not take a lesson in metallurgy.

Also, I plan on running a BRZ2100 and Z80.4 from two Kinetik 1800's if that makes a difference.

Here's what it says. Features: Model: 0G100 Gauge: 0 Gauge Wire Length: 25ft Cadence Cool Cable Technology Special Winding Configuration Reduces Unwanted Noises and Maximizes Current Transfer High Purity Oxygen Free Copper Standing Incredibly Flexible Yet Extremely Durable Protective Ultra Soft PVC Translucent Jacket Braided Super-Flex Design Ensures Optimum Surface Area and Flexibility Designed for Show Car Performance 1 Foot Markings on Wire Make it Easy to Read and Easy to Cut to Appropriate Size Ultra-Pure Copper Conduction High Current Competition Class Power Cable Eliminates Noise from the AC Line Shielding From RFI and EMI Resist Abrasions, Chemicals, and Temperature Extremes Rated at 110°C (Celsius) / 230°F (Fahrenheit) Guaranteed to Make Your Amplifier Run Cooler and Sound Better Stranding: 7 x 7 x 55 x 0.15mm (7 Ropes Consisting of 7 Sets of 55 Strands of 0.15mm Wire) Color: Blue

I have looked at 100 different kinds of 1/0. Cheap, overly expensive ect. What's the cheapest priced/acceptable quality 1/0. I got a new Kinetik to buy as well so I wanna keep the price down if possible, but I don't want shit either. I need probably 15ft ground and 20ft power for run to back and big 3. I think Knukonceptz was about $160 with rings. Thanks.

Price?

Just need to step it up a notch.

Off to Youtube.

Got a link? I have a similar question. Skimmed the first 5 pages and didn't see it.

How do you measure the min/max rise and does it matter? You meter it while it plays?

Lady in Red is fuckin ho-larious.