alaskanzx5

yeah you could gain match the amps but to be safe i would do 2 seperate boxes or chambers.

same reason i wouldnt use the 2500. rockford needs make actualy make a speaker that can handle their own amp. biggest ive seen is 3430 at 1ohm and for 2 speakers thats a good 1700watts rms each rf best subs are the t2 and they only rate them at 1200rms. i destroyed a single t2 12 off of a 1500.bdcp birthsheet says 1790watts at 2ohms. had it setup like that for 6 months bumping for about 1/2 hour - 1 hour 5 days a week.

i see no issues there. should put the sealed box upfront and the ported box in back then swap it around to see what placement for the boxes soundes best to you.

as long as the subs have their own chamber its fine but you would be better of building a box with seperate chambers or 2 boxes. seeing that the ceapest price i saw on that box is 300 you clould build 2 boxes that would perform better for less then $150. also from the looks of it the design is cut into the 3/4"mdf they use so the wood is weaker from it. couldnt find what the port area is or what the tuning is. would be way better off building a box.

ok, i know some stupid people but come on. lmao

well, if you got a second ebay alt and ran both you would be able to get better output but you should just post the pos on ebey for $100 then buy an actual highoutput alt.

the t2500 would allow you to put both subs in the same box but with the t1000.1 you should use different boxes because the output on the amps would be different. then with the 2500.1 you would have to get an alt. the 2500.1 takes like 200-250amps on its own. using the 2500 would certainly cost a pretty penny. then there is the 3rd option of a t1500.1bdcp in wich i have 2 t2 12s running off of one. havent tested this setup but with a single t2 12" off the 1500.1 at 2 ohms i did a 143.9. the box was about 2cuft tuned at about 40 hrz( suggested box in manual for the sub). with a proper box i see no reason why i couldnt have done better but i knew i was gonna get another 12" so it was just for the time being.

hmm. same hu as me, works great though doesnt it?

if im not mistaken as long as the part is secured to the vehicle using bolts,nut,screws or some sort of braket it can and should be taken care of by the insurance company of the person that caused the accident. also for an additional price your insurance might cover any upgrades to the vehicle as long as it is fastened to the vehicle in one of the above mentioned ways or of a similar way. aftermarket parts that are not secured in one of those ways are considered an accessory and may or may not be coverd in an accident depending on the insurance company. I do know that when i was 7 we got rear ended and some soda we had broke open and their insurance covered it because it was part of are groceries. they also offered to have the back carpet steam cleaned but the van was junk anyways so it was tossed and the insurance money spent on another car.

what he said

yeah i had my single t2 in a 3cube box and it did great. altough from the smaller box and the bigger box there was no difference on the metter both tuned the same.

the slot ported box they say to build works great. i bought a t2d412 and then built the recommended box for it and took 1st place in my class at 2 db drags. got a 143.9 meter on the windsheild windows up doors closed. of course that was with a rf t1500.1bdcp but the box was great. sounded good. got low and loud.

then he needs to wire at 2 ohm and if he wants more power wich is the only reason for him to want to wire to .5ohms then he would be better off with a bigger amp rather then destroying the 1000.1 besides isnt it the lower the ohm the more heat and distortion? if im not mistaken on that then going to .5ohms would not make sense seeing how he could get the same amount of power at 2ohms from a different amp.

exactly my point. also if he wants to run .5ohms rather then 1 ohm then he already wants more power. in return a different amp would be a better choice. by the way, running that amp at .5ohms is what would be stupid. ruin a $700 amp while vioding warranty, pocket killing mistake.

step it up to the 1500.bdcp not much in price difference and at 1 ohm it can put out 1800-1900 watts rms. if you use the 1000.1bdcp then dont wire it at .5 ohms i dont think its stable besides the power difference would be so small it wouldnt realy matter

you do lose some power from it. rockford has a chart and section on their site that helps with figuring out the amount of power being lost.

yeah, how much you selling those bad boys for? lol, they look great

i did give step by step directions lmao. i understand i did my first box with no help. if you know some one that has wood working experience i suggest you ask them for help. as for screws it depends on the thickness of the wood. for 3/4" wood i would use atleast 1 1/2" long wood screws i prefer 2". test fit the pre drill. take a peice of scrape wood and drill a hole with a slightly smaller drill bit then the screw. then put the screw in the test hole. if it goes it nice and snug its good. if you have to realy work it in might want to try a drill bit bigger. if it goes in real easy the hole is to big.

should consider a brace inbetween the subs.

this is the order you do it in pre dill, glue, screw. then for all the inside corners you should put a sealent to make sure its air tight. to pre drill the hole you need to line the wood up how it will be when its done then drill the holes. i suggest doing one in each coner first and then putting in a screw so that the box cant move or shift while drilling. take the screws in the corners out then use wood glue to put the box together. do one side at a time and screw the boards together so that it will apply preasure to the glue so that it gets a good strong hold and hopefully fill in any air gaps. as you put the box together you will want to put some sealent ( i use liquid nails ) in the corners so that any slight air hole can be filled/covered so that there is no chance of air leaks. let it all dry overnight, the next morning clean off any extra glue from the outside of the box. take some wood glue and sawdust mix it together and use this on top of the screw heads to cover them. then as your choice cover the box in fabric or paint it. you can also paint and upholster the the box. FYI if the box is ported your should also atleast roung off all the edges of the port walls inside and out. better air flow

you can ground to the chasis of the jeep but you should keep it /0 gauge like the battery upfront 2 runs of 4 gauge would work though. also ive heard that running the ground from the back battery to the battery under the hood can give a better ground. my choice on this matter is grounded the back battery to the chasis and to the front battery so that it will follow the path of less resistance so that wich ever might be the better ground is the one it follows naturaly.

umm, you want the port to be more of in the 30-38hz range with 14-16 sq inches of port per sq foot of box for a slot port and i think it was 9-13 for aero ports

10s ported, ported subs in a hatch sound fantastic

ok, so i did some redesigning to the box to drop the port area from 17+ to 15.5-16. same basic design just a slightly smaller box and port tune to 37-38 hz. ( dont remember all specs off the top of my head ) Now what im trying to accomplish is go from the 143.8 i did with the single 12 i had to a 145+ with the 2 12s i have. i am not increasing power by much. going from 2 ohm on 1 sub to 1 ohm on 2, power will maybe go up by 100watts rms (amp birthsheet 1780x1@2ohm 1880x1@1ohm). beside adding anohter sub and better box build i will be adding a 220amp mechman alt (stock alt 110amp? i think) and if i can gather the money before the first comp i will be adding a xs power battery. with the added sub, box build, and alt do you think it could be possible to break 145.

ok, and your not him to each his own if he wants 4 12s the let him do 4 12s. honestly though if you dont have the space then you dont have the space. maybe 3 12s or 4 10s instead"