alaskanzx5

Tony said bucket.. I didn't. And you are jealous of my bucket Very professional man. I love when I see company owners in the thick of it making themselves look bad. By high frequency I meant in the mhz... It can go to 20khz just fine. Since that is what most scopes are used for.... Ic. Didn't see anything on the score that.said freq range. Them again, I don't know much about them. I'm still on board with the amm1. I mean like you said with the tools you listed, and a resistive load bank that 350 plus shipping cost if each part so i'm sure s could agree at $400 after shipping and everything. For $60 more plus shipping I can get the amm1 fir a much quicker more portable tool. I think the $60 is worth the convenience and accuracy of the tool. we all know there are always.discounts that they do on these tools to make the price that much better for us smd members.

I think the vid is being seen in the wing way, it's not that they are saying clamping is flawed. It's the typical way it's done that is flawed. Using just a dmm and clamp meter won't get the true rms results. That's the clamp method I see more often the not. I've seen maybe 2 vids where people used a scope. I see this video as a comparison between a cheap in accurate way to clamp vs a tool that has proven accurate results. Also i'm I wrong to think that a scope that can't measure higher freq (tweets and higher mid range freq in particular) isn't a good choice? If I want to measure out put of an amp I would like to see the output of each amp for every speaker in my system and not just the sub amp. It would be nice to know actual rms going to the other speakers. If you can't use the scope for those tests you can't accurately measure for those speakers.

I don't know what to look for in Ann accurate scope. I know that it has to have a nice refresh.rate to see clipping at the.same time your taking readings from the other tools.

See now this to me is where it gets interesting. Now since you are posting a cheaper alternative people have choices. From the clamp tests I've seen people do it's a dmm and clamp, this is my first time seeing a scope or true rms meter for such a low price. Still comes into factor of how well the user can see clipping on the scope. It would be nice to see a comparison of equipment like what sintorman posted and the amm1.

You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont. The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that. That's what i'm trying to say, with cost difference between the tools needed to get an accurate test the amm1 is a hands down winner.Yes clamping with the right tools can give you More accurate result but still not 100% and not as cost effective. Let's face it us audio guys are always looking for a good way to save money while still getting the install done right. The amm1 helps do that plus some with ease and accuracy. Sorry if anyone feels like i'm baking clamping, not trying to. It's the way of the past and inaccurate compared to the amm1. For a cost effective tool the amm1 is a steal. Unless the amm1 is cheaper than 250 bucks then it's actually not the better deal. But if you honestly need something that can measure taking into account for the power factor then I guess spend the extra money. 99% of people don't do it and so the industry standard is basically clamping for voltamps. If the Fluke meters are used with an purely resistive load (99% of people do not have this), and you can guarantee that NO CLIPPING occurs then the AMM-1 and clamps should agree. So you need a True RMS Voltmeter, a True RMS clamp meter, an oscilloscope, and a non-inductive load bank. So basically an Amp Dyno. Add a zero to the end of that $250 Thanks Tony, the price for an accurate clasp test is a lot higher then people think. That price is much more the the amm1 and the amm1 is an all around helpful tool for car audio at a small% of the price for an accurate clamp test bench

You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont. The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that. That's what i'm trying to say, with cost difference between the tools needed to get an accurate test the amm1 is a hands down winner.Yes clamping with the right tools can give you More accurate result but still not 100% and not as cost effective. Let's face it us audio guys are always looking for a good way to save money while still getting the install done right. The amm1 helps do that plus some with ease and accuracy. Sorry if anyone feels like i'm baking clamping, not trying to. It's the way of the past and inaccurate compared to the amm1. For a cost effective tool the amm1 is a steal. Unless the amm1 is cheaper than 250 bucks then it's actually not the better deal. But if you honestly need something that can measure taking into account for the power factor then I guess spend the extra money. 99% of people don't do it and so the industry standard is basically clamping for voltamps.An accurate clamp meter is 400 plus. Not to mention dmm and scope.Amm1 is 460. Find an accurate clamp dmm, and scope for under that price. The clamp he used in the vid is over 600 alone.

You are looking at about $5000 worth of testing equipment sitting on my make shift bench. I have the tools to do the job correctly, most people dont. The AMM1 now provides an affordable solution that. That's what i'm trying to say, with cost difference between the tools needed to get an accurate test the amm1 is a hands down winner. Yes clamping with the right tools can give you More accurate result but still not 100% and not as cost effective. Let's face it us audio guys are always looking for a good way to save money while still getting the install done right. The amm1 helps do that plus some with ease and accuracy. Sorry if anyone feels like i'm baking clamping, not trying to. It's the way of the past and inaccurate compared to the amm1. For a cost effective tool the amm1 is a steal.

thank you cj18, that's what I was trying to explain with my last post but you said it much better. in short what im seeing is that with out the proper equipment (which gets expensive just for a good scope) you cant get an accurate results from the clamping that most people do. it can be a more accurate test with the right tools at hand and more work but for the money the amm1 is a steal. all the scopes ive seen run around $300-400 for a nice one. don't forget the dmm and getting a test bench together to put a reactive load on the amp to get a true rms reading at a given load.

but he also mentioned that if there is anyone that uses tools that can do what he did in his second test it would be hardly anyone. most people don't have the tools to do such an accurate test to get more accurate results. that being said. 99% of people are not getting a true rms reading because of not having the correct tools from what he was saying. besides even at a 570w result in that test its still not accurate. still proves that as of right now one of the most accurate ways is the amp dyno or amm1 and you helped prove that.

^^ please explain how its misleading if you are so smart. they come in here and post videos with facts supported by science and math while everyone else comes in here saying well clamping is how everyone does it so it must be true. that's like saying everything you read online is true or the well my brothers friends sisters boyfriend said this and so it must be true. sorry but facts are facts while all that other stuff has no supporting science or math behind it.

so different amps/setups will have different % of difference between the dyno and clamp method right? or at least I would think it wouldn't always be a difference of 34.5%. just asking that so people don't see the vid and say o well if its only a difference of 34.5% then I can clamp and subtract the % difference to get the true rms. I could see that happening. great video once again though. glad you posted this meade, I didn't see the other thread so works for me. remember everyone, haters will keep on hating. some people are most likely seeing these vids about how clamping doesn't work because of its inaccurate results from the lack of actually understanding what they are doing imo are just upset because what they thought their setup was putting out isn't what the true rms output is. people don't like being proven wrong or told that the excepted way to do something is inaccurate and a thing of the past. I say let the haters hate while the rest of us thrive off of their hate to achieve better. I know when someone tells me I can do something I do it just to prove them wrong.

ill try and talk with some people I know to see if I can get them to go for it. majority of them live in Alaska though so I doubt they will want to pay that shipping. I know I didn't when I was still up there. ill try though. question though, everyone I know would most likely rather buy a good amount of wire so that they could wire everything up on their own rather then a full kit. maybe you could include say 10ft + of wire.

^^ to much time on your hands to go through and check that lol.

that some real power just off batts.

waiting

well that explains a lot n8, didn't know that. but yeah I figure at 16v it should be close to 9-11k most people (including some of my guesses) are in the high 8k range. considering power draw and only batt powered though im hoping voltage drop will bring it down to my guesses lol.

we need a mod in here asap. im seeing a lot of first time posters that seems like someone might be making multiple accounts to better their chances

I didn't see anyone answer the other question yet so I will yes, we like this guessing games. with or with out the prize it adds fun to the wait for results. the prize just makes it more exciting.

1. 9344 2. 8765 3. 8956 4. 9652 5. 9734 total 46451

looks that this would be great for fans or extra gauges. lighting or anything extra really.

so called reputable brands don't always oversize. street wire is so called one of the best, how many people who know what good wire is use it? I haven't seen anyone use it on this forum. the car I have right now came with street wire, ripped it out like it was a disease and tossed it. so called 8gauge, was thinner then my Rockford 16 gauge.

not all wires are oversized. try getting oversized wire from walmart. or the cheap stuff they try to push at local shops. ive seen 1/0g that looked like 4gauge at a local dealer for 6-7 a foot. wasn't ofc wire either.

its all about the quality and strand count. that wire is top notch. be happy its $7 a foot, ive seen 1/0 gauge for as much as 10-13 per foot